Yamadori Yellow Cedar

[JRidge]

I started on an initial styling of this collected yellow cedar. I had a vision in mind and then it deteriorated when I started to work with the tree. Not a lot of movement on the main trunk and long growth all emanating from the same area. I am better at collection and care than styling….
I am very confident that I will be able to reduce the roots to a manageable size for a pot because it is a layered bog tree going on 3 years in the box.
Does anyone have any styling recommendations for a tree like this?

 

[August44]

I know nothing about the species you have collected here but will give you some opinions. I don't care for the fact that the tree is leaning so far to the right and then the top branch/new leader is leaning too. IMO the main trunk needs to be bent back to the left if you can, and maybe in the middle of that long straight stretch verses just changing the angle of the whole tree when repotting. Also, more movement via wiring with the two branches coming down and maybe turning the top section into dead wood. I have the same problem that you mention, do well at collecting but not so much at styling. I live and practice this art with no bonsai person or club close, and that makes things difficult. Best of luck with your tree JRidge.

Also I might add something that I had to learn, before collecting anything, look, look and relook at the tree and develop a plan. If you can't come up with something decent, leave it there.

 

[River's Edge]

I started on an initial styling of this collected yellow cedar. I had a vision in mind and then it deteriorated when I started to work with the tree. Not a lot of movement on the main trunk and long growth all emanating from the same area. I am better at collection and care than styling….
I am very confident that I will be able to reduce the roots to a manageable size for a pot because it is a layered bog tree going on 3 years in the box.
Does anyone have any styling recommendations for a tree like this?

At this point I would focus on letting the tree grow out for the next two years, develop the foliage that is in close to the trunk. In the meantime work on the root ball and establish the best planting angle for nebari and trunk movement. You could also add movement to the trunk with some heavy bending to aid in the final design.
Yellow Cedar will bounce back quickly and bud back where pruned. In a year or two you should have lots of foliage to work with and it will be better positioned in close to the trunk.

 

[JRidge]

Thank you.
I like both of the above suggestions. Better than my thoughts of completely reducing it to a sparse bunjin style.

The tree already has backbudding and crotch growth occurring. I selectively left some of this during thinning and cleaning the tree out.
I think letting it really grow back out while focusing on reducing the field soil and getting the roots sorted is what I will do moving forward.
My first thought was to add some movement to the main trunk but it has very prominent deadwood running the length of the main trunk. There are two rather neat live veins that I have not cleaned up yet which is what attracted me to the tree.
Because of the deadwood I do not think I can add any movement to the trunk without it separating and possibly killing the tree. Are there any techniques for bending a trunk that is majority deadwood? Or am I barking up the wrong tree…

 

[JRidge]

I know nothing about the species you have collected here but will give you some opinions. I don't care for the fact that the tree is leaning so far to the right and then the top branch/new leader is leaning too. IMO the main trunk needs to be bent back to the left if you can, and maybe in the middle of that long straight stretch verses just changing the angle of the whole tree when repotting. Also, more movement via wiring with the two branches coming down and maybe turning the top section into dead wood. I have the same problem that you mention, do well at collecting but not so much at styling. I live and practice this art with no bonsai person or club close, and that makes things difficult. Best of luck with your tree JRidge.

Also I might add something that I had to learn, before collecting anything, look, look and relook at the tree and develop a plan. If you can't come up with something decent, leave it there.

I am not sure if these would be a candidate for NE Oregon but if you ever get a chance to get one, they are very neat trees! I have been waiting to see one appear in the Mirai world but have not seen one worked on yet.
I know many people do not love the foliage but I DO! The live veins and deadwood on some specimens is incredible. I might get scolded for saying this but I think some are just as gnarly and radical as the RMJs out there.

 

[River's Edge]

Thank you.
I like both of the above suggestions. Better than my thoughts of completely reducing it to a sparse bunjin style.

The tree already has backbudding and crotch growth occurring. I selectively left some of this during thinning and cleaning the tree out.
I think letting it really grow back out while focusing on reducing the field soil and getting the roots sorted is what I will do moving forward.
My first thought was to add some movement to the main trunk but it has very prominent deadwood running the length of the main trunk. There are two rather neat live veins that I have not cleaned up yet which is what attracted me to the tree.
Because of the deadwood I do not think I can add any movement to the trunk without it separating and possibly killing the tree. Are there any techniques for bending a trunk that is majority deadwood? Or am I barking up the wrong tree…

One technique involves warm wet towels on the deadwood prior to bending, protective wrap, heavy copper wire and being sensible about the amount of movement expected! One can expect it will take longer to set in position and also spring back more than if the deadwood were not present. However, that being said it can be done.
CAVEAT: this depends on the proportion of deadwood.
Second technique would be carving the deadwood ( essentially thinning to create a greater degree of bend ability. One would need to be confident in their carving skills and or ability to leave the result natural looking. This works well on Juniper and I have also used this technique on this Yellow Cedar. The tree had a very thick trunk portion with deadwood that was hollowed out in order to create a tight bend to bring the foliage in close to the deadwood. The live veins grew into the hollow in the bend over time reducing the gap. I positioned the gap to be under the curve so it was less noticeable.
Difficult to gauge your possibilities without seeing the tree in person. If you can show the tree to someone with experience and training on heavy bending they could best advise you.

 

[JRidge]

I made a few adjustments.. reduced and did some pretty heavy branch bending. I added a lot of movement to the low left branch as suggested.
I have not tried the major surgery @River's Edge. I think it is beyond my ability at this time. Even though this tree is good material to experiment with that. Perhaps I will try it after it has recovered from this work (plus I will be doing some root work this spring). I attached a photo of the Shari, it is most of the diameter of the trunk.

 

[River's Edge]

I made a few adjustments.. reduced and did some pretty heavy branch bending. I added a lot of movement to the low left branch as suggested.
I have not tried the major surgery @River's Edge. I think it is beyond my ability at this time. Even though this tree is good material to experiment with that. Perhaps I will try it after it has recovered from this work (plus I will be doing some root work this spring). I attached a photo of the Shari, it is most of the diameter of the trunk. View attachment 525508View attachment 525510

That shari is pretty extreme. I would likely not mess with it!

 

[JRidge]

No I didn’t think that would be a good idea.