MichaelCowart
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Searching for information on the best ways to winter-over a winged Elm in central New Hampshire.
Winged Elm
- Thread starter MichaelCowart
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- winged elm wintering
Zach Smith
Omono
It must be protected from freezing in the below 25F range. The species won't stand too much cold. Given where you are, you'd best keep it in a garage with enough heat to keep the temp above 20. I'm not sure you could protect the root zone adequately outdoors.
Maybe someone else in your area has some direct experience with winged elm. I don't think I've ever shipped any to New Hampshire.
Maybe someone else in your area has some direct experience with winged elm. I don't think I've ever shipped any to New Hampshire.
Oliver Muscio
Mame
Maybe winged elms from the northern part of their range are hardier. I live in zone 6b and my winged elms come through winters with temperatures below 20F (commonly approaching 10F) with no harm. They are mulched into a pathway of a raised bed, but everything more than a couple of inches above the pot is exposed.
Oliver
Oliver
MichaelCowart
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This tree was shipped from Florida to Massachusetts at some point last year and im not sure how it was wintered last year. I'm wondering if it even requires a period of dormancy as I've read that they thrive in the southern lowlands.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
They lose their leaves and undergo a dormant period. Left on their own, their leaves are usually their leaves are gone by January here in Houston unless I pull them off during cutback in late November or early December.
Their native range extends as far north as Kentucky and southern Illinois - that’s zone 6B, as far as I can tell. Zone 6B has maximum wintertime lows of about 0° F or so, but I wouldn’t let them get that cold in a pot, especially if they’re not acclimated. You can’t go wrong with Zach’s advice - mid twenties should be plenty cold to trigger dormancy and is probably quite safe for the tree. In terms of chill hours, I think not much is required. My winter lasted all of three days in the twenties last year - the rest of the winter was up in the 70’s and 80’s. They lost their leaves at the beginning of December (manually) and were pushing buds by the end of February.
Scott
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I got one from VA this year.
Grew like a champ....
And the wings....
Well....
Apparently they use them to land straight when falling off the eye high bench....
Twice!
Must be time to clean out the garage some I guess!
Or build a cold frame against the house.
Sorce
Grew like a champ....
And the wings....
Well....
Apparently they use them to land straight when falling off the eye high bench....
Twice!
Must be time to clean out the garage some I guess!
Or build a cold frame against the house.
Sorce
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
Well...When you got "fallers" they might as well have wings!
VAFisher
Masterpiece
I've got a few. Last year they wintered in my garage with no problems. One of them is in a pond basket that I sat on the ground this year. The roots quickly escaped into the ground and it's stuck good right now. The trunk on that one has put on major girth this year and it has now grown taller than me. I'll bring the others in the garage again but I'm going to leave the one that's stuck to see how it winters outside. I'll probably just pile a bunch of leaves and stuff around the basket and call it good.
Zach Smith
Omono
My experience with excess cold and winged elms is strictly associated with leaving them on the bench. I'm confident that on the ground they can take air temps down to 20 and possibly lower. Heeled in and mulched, even lower. It's all about that root zone.
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
I am in 6b out back and a solid 7 out front. I have had other Winged Elms in the past that did just fine on the ground in 6b with wind protection from the fence and landscape trees. I find the wind protection to be very beneficial as it is far less difficult to keep those and others from totally drying out. The ground is also the way to go as it is far warmer. The Winged I have now will most likely retain leaf until sometime in December unless they look crappy and I prune them. They are a bit different then American, Chinese, Chinese Weeping, and Lacebark but manageable here. I am pretty certain in the ground they could be grown in 5 - fairly tough in my eyes.
Grimmy
Zach Smith
Omono
I like winged elm pretty well, but in terms of performance it can't hold a candle to cedar, American, Chinese, and the Chinese varieties. Winged elms usually look pretty ratty this time of year, while cedar elm is still growing and American is about to start turning color with nice-looking foliage. Chinese also still look good, unless black spot has come for a visit.
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
I am blessed with not having that in this area since we moved from NY in 2009. Not certain if my using the Sulfur soil soaks is preventing it but it certainly has not hurt them
Grimmy
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
You soak your trees in sulfur?I am blessed with not having that in this area since we moved from NY in 2009. Not certain if my using the Sulfur soil soaks is preventing it but it certainly has not hurt them
Grimmy
Can you provide some details on that please?
Dilution ratio?
Time spent in the dip?
All trees??? Even azalea?
Zach Smith
Omono
What form of sulfur and how do you deliver it? I have one Chinese elm that was attacked by bark beetles a couple of years ago. It survived and has grown well, only this summer it got some ugly foliage I'm pretty sure is caused by black spot. Seems to only go for weakened trees, at least in my garden.I am blessed with not having that in this area since we moved from NY in 2009. Not certain if my using the Sulfur soil soaks is preventing it but it certainly has not hurt them
Grimmy
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
@GrimLore
This kind of stuff?
And also, when you dip, do you flush it with water afterwards??
I gotta hear about this! Details pleeze!
Attachments
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
All actual trees, most importantly potted Fruits. Azalea and Rhodes love it - helps the PH in organic substrate a lot.
Same as he posted but not as suggested by Bonide. I mix 2 level tablespoons of it into a one gallon jug and shake/mix it. I don't spray it on but water it in at the surface in Spring, Summer, and Fall, replacing a normal water until it starts to drain out. I originally started this practice to break the Cedar Rust Cycle on Pitted Fruits and found it to be easy and inexpensive enough to try on other plants. after the initial Fall and Spring treatments Cedar Rust was gone. I also find that other plants seem to like it too with nothing bad happening so far and I will list them. I will also list others that I will try starting this Fall.
Please understand I started this process getting very tired of spraying on various other chemicals in rotation far more often. After reading hundreds of pages of nonsense I personally decided that although most all Fungal problems pass airborne they reside in the substrate. I thought to myself break it at the soil after having far more bacterial soil/airborne problems in the past.
From what I see so far these plants have no negative response and flourish - many here will agree for my zone with a short growing season they do far better then most -
Pitted Fruits - ANY - I have 9
Elms - ANY - I have 10
Satsuki Azalea - I have five varieties at present and they really seem to like it, perhaps a PH thing...
Rhodes - same as Azalea
Cotoneaster - All
Quince - All, I have excellent beyond normal growth on them.
Goji berry
Junipers - All and I have no idea how many types ATM.
Crepe Myrtle - All
Chinese Hackberry
Roses - All
I will start a full cycle with several Maples this Fall but I am pretty certain they will be ok
I must also mention - I am starting a similar regiment with Daconil on some of those listed and others. I guess the rotational spraying routine has stuck it in my head but I honestly don't think it applies in watering in, just have gallons to use up.
Hope that helps - I may have missed a few but ask and I may have!
Grimmy
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
Gracias amigo!All actual trees, most importantly potted Fruits. Azalea and Rhodes love it - helps the PH in organic substrate a lot.
Same as he posted but not as suggested by Bonide. I mix 2 level tablespoons of it into a one gallon jug and shake/mix it. I don't spray it on but water it in at the surface in Spring, Summer, and Fall, replacing a normal water until it starts to drain out. I originally started this practice to break the Cedar Rust Cycle on Pitted Fruits and found it to be easy and inexpensive enough to try on other plants. after the initial Fall and Spring treatments Cedar Rust was gone. I also find that other plants seem to like it too with nothing bad happening so far and I will list them. I will also list others that I will try starting this Fall.
Please understand I started this process getting very tired of spraying on various other chemicals in rotation far more often. After reading hundreds of pages of nonsense I personally decided that although most all Fungal problems pass airborne they reside in the substrate. I thought to myself break it at the soil after having far more bacterial soil/airborne problems in the past.
From what I see so far these plants have no negative response and flourish - many here will agree for my zone with a short growing season they do far better then most -
Pitted Fruits - ANY - I have 9
Elms - ANY - I have 10
Satsuki Azalea - I have five varieties at present and they really seem to like it, perhaps a PH thing...
Rhodes - same as Azalea
Cotoneaster - All
Quince - All, I have excellent beyond normal growth on them.
Goji berry
Junipers - All and I have no idea how many types ATM.
Crepe Myrtle - All
Chinese Hackberry
Roses - All
I will start a full cycle with several Maples this Fall but I am pretty certain they will be ok
I must also mention - I am starting a similar regiment with Daconil on some of those listed and others. I guess the rotational spraying routine has stuck it in my head but I honestly don't think it applies in watering in, just have gallons to use up.
Hope that helps - I may have missed a few but ask and I may have!
Grimmy
cbroad
Omono
I have 3 winged elms, 2 in 7gal pots with potting soil/perlite and 1 air layer (severed and potted in late summer of 2016) in a 3gal with potting soil and a heavy perlite mix. All of mine were mulched in near the house and faced Southeast.
All did fine last winter and did well this growing season. I was a little concerned for the air layer going into the winter with a small root system but it's probably done the best this growing season and has halfway healed a 2" trunk chop. My avatar is this one.
All did fine last winter and did well this growing season. I was a little concerned for the air layer going into the winter with a small root system but it's probably done the best this growing season and has halfway healed a 2" trunk chop. My avatar is this one.
cbroad
Omono
But as far as how the leaves look this time of year, that's another thing... I believe these (at least in my area) are fungus magnets...
Oliver Muscio
Mame
Same here...But as far as how the leaves look this time of year, that's another thing... I believe these (at least in my area) are fungus magnets...
Oliver
