Winged Elm--Ulmus alata: Suggestions?

[Oliver Muscio]

As I indicated in the hackberry post, this tree was also dug from my garden last Spring and allowed to grow unrestrained in its box. I have greater problems, I think, with the trunk on this elm: it has little taper, inverse taper, a crevice in the truck resulting from its rotting out from a chop (the rot has been cleaned out with a dremmel, and is awaiting wood-hardener treatment). From what appears to me to be the best viewing angle (about 20 deg counter-clockwise from the second picture) that minimizes the inverse taper and shows the crevice to best effect, the apex and upper third of the trunck leans away from the viewer. The nebari (buried at the moment) is not great, but the better part is on the "front" side; it is minimal at the back. Anywhere to go with this?

Oliver

 

[crust]

The stove pipe effect of the trunk is pretty powerful element to overcome. Perhaps #2: a tilt to right and a dramatic chainsaw lopping through the crevise wood removing the upper third and creating taper. Cut off all branches and start with new sprouts followed by wiring.

 

[JudyB]

I would play up that crevice as much as possible, and extend it where you can, it looks to be the focal point.

 

[stacy allen muse]

Curious question???
What would cutting off all the branches do...
From what I am looking at, most of the branches I see are just barely big enough to get any wire arround.

Personal opinion... I would use the first pic as my front. The reverse taper you speak of is not a problem and rather than hide it, I would put I front and center.
The reason being for two reasons...
First, the taper is a result of the scar running up the middle. So for me it is an understandable feature. Ideally, this is not normally a feature you would like to have, but there are exceptions to the rules and it works for me here.
Secondly, I think that trying to hide it will only look like you are trying to hide it...
Sometimes you just have to put those flaws right out in the open, besides they give it character.

As far as the style...
I would wire the top leader to the right and a when you go to replant, lean the whole tree a little to the left, this will help create a nice fluid curve running all the way up through your tree. Allow your leader and the top of your tree to just grow uncut for now, it will help with the thickening of the leader. Eventually you will want to probally reduce its height and start over on creating your top, but for now, you need to resolve the drastic transition between the thicknesses of your stump and your newer leader.
Besides that, I would go through and wire the rest of your branches.

 

[edprocoat]

Oliver, I do not see many trees that I do not like, but this is one of them. I would love to see it turned into something beautiful, that would be an accomplishment worthy of noting. I am not trying to be mean but it looks out of proportion in a way I would have no idea how to overcome. Most the trees in Bonsai that I do not really care for are the stump type, or sumo as some call them, yet I have seen a few progressions that were amazing. I wish you the best with this and truly hope you can make it beautiful, I am sure it would look a lot better with some green on it too. Good luck man!

ed

 

[Oliver Muscio]

Ed, no offense taken--it's a pretty ugly stump!

Stacy, I was thinking something like that. A front between pic 1 and 2 highlights the cleft even better, but then the top angles away from the viewer more. However--

Crust, If the above doesn't look as if it's going to work out, I might just reduce the tree drastically, removing the top half with a diagonal cut from just above the first branch on the right (pic 1) angling down toward the cleft, and a second cut lower down on the left from just above the first branch on that side, going for a split trunk, and using those two branches as new leaders. I will try less drastic options first, though.
Thanks, all!
Oliver