Windswept Italian plum progression

[Maloghurst]

I collected this plum as a weed whacked volunteer from a neighbors plum tree. Italian plum I believe.
I saw potential in the old shari. There is really only one front for this tree and I’ve had trouble for months trying to envision a direction including seeking advice on Bnut. I think I’ve finally found a direction for it. Comments are welcome.
March 2019


June 2019 after some initial wire. These branches harden quickly and cannot be bent after so need to be wired early in growing season.

July 2019 After some wire and styling and finding what I believe is the trees calling as a windswept.

Close up of shari

Quick virt of goal for summer 2020. The pics don’t show but I already have the branch’s in place to achieve this. Just need ramification.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Nice, I like the feel of it.

 

[jimib]

I have a question. By no means is this a criticism or critique, as I’m quite new to bonsai. However to be a convincing “windswept” bonsai, shouldn’t the entire tree be leaning the direction of the wind? I’ve seen them before where a main trunk and branches were going one direction yet the small branching going the opposite direction, but that doesn’t lead me to believe that the tree has been battered or designed by the wind. Of course no one has to convince me of anything...it’s not my tree. Just curious. I do like the virt though...

 

[Maloghurst]

I have a question. By no means is this a criticism or critique, as I’m quite new to bonsai. However to be a convincing “windswept” bonsai, shouldn’t the entire tree be leaning the direction of the wind? I’ve seen them before where a main trunk and branches were going one direction yet the small branching going the opposite direction, but that doesn’t lead me to believe that the tree has been battered or designed by the wind. Of course no one has to convince me of anything...it’s not my tree. Just curious. I do like the virt though...

No problem, There are many windswept tree styles and a lot of bonsai are styled this way possibly for balance or compaction of over all image. It is also a realistic style that happens in nature. If the main trunk of a tree is growing at an angle into the wind like a cliff or just starts as a slanting tree into the wind then the main trunk would not be as bent by the wind because it’s able to get thick enough that it withstands it. The primary, secondary and tertiary branches and so on would be much more influenced by the wind creating this effect.
With my tree it’s just the way it worked out.
This material was difficult for me and this seems the best use of it me at the present time. There is really only one front for this tree within a short rotational distance.

 

[MrWunderful]

Looks like it has a killer base/nebari from the first pic, are the roots radial?

And I love windswept trees that lean into the wind, adds a lot of tension to the design.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I've seen Windswept trees in nature were the shaping winds are not constant, you are more likely to see the variation where the trunk leans into the wind. Although for a slanting style tree, I like the "causal agent" which sets the theme to be a river bank tree that is slowly being undercut by the river. Then you can allow more exuberant growth in the branches. It would allow branches big enough to carry fruit.

 

[Maloghurst]

I've seen Windswept trees in nature were the shaping winds are not constant, you are more likely to see the variation where the trunk leans into the wind. Although for a slanting style tree, I like the "causal agent" which sets the theme to be a river bank tree that is slowly being undercut by the river. Then you can allow more exuberant growth in the branches. It would allow branches big enough to carry fruit.

That is something to think about. So you mean potentially having a little thicker branches for when this tree starts fruiting or to be more believable?

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

That is something to think about. So you mean potentially having a little thicker branches for when this tree starts fruiting or to be more believable?

Longer, more ramified (branches of the branches) not necessarily a lot thicker. Remember, as a general guide, a branch should be less than half the diameter of the trunk it comes off of to "look like" a tree. Shrubs have branches more than half the diameter of the trunk. So to avoid shrubbery look, get your trunk to increase in diameter, and keep your branches less than half the diameter of the trunk. This is why you hear discussion for some older trees about replacing branches, the old ones got too large in diameter.

These "rules" are only guides to consider if you can't figure out why some tree "doesn't look right". Then these guidelines really help.

If it looks good, the rules don't really matter.

 

[Domi]

Thanks for sharing this! I really like what you’ve done with it.
I’m especially curious to see how you’ll progress with the shari.

I dug out a young Prunus Domestica (maybe 3-4 years old) with a plan of training it as windswept. I did some initial wiring and left it in a corner for a few months and just noticed whole new shoots. I didn’t realize that they harden so fast. Based on your photos, it looks like a month or two is enough to train new growth. I’ve tried to train some older branches, but they seem to snap easily. Do you have any advice on how to handle that, or should I give up training older branches, and just focus on styling?

 

[Maloghurst]

Looks like it has a killer base/nebari from the first pic, are the roots radial?

And I love windswept trees that lean into the wind, adds a lot of tension to the design.

Yes where I collect these trees there seems to be gravel or concrete about 8-10” below the soil so they come up easy with lateral roots.

 

[Maloghurst]

Thanks for sharing this! I really like what you’ve done with it.
I’m especially curious to see how you’ll progress with the shari.

I dug out a young Prunus Domestica (maybe 3-4 years old) with a plan of training it as windswept. I did some initial wiring and left it in a corner for a few months and just noticed whole new shoots. I didn’t realize that they harden so fast. Based on your photos, it looks like a month or two is enough to train new growth. I’ve tried to train some older branches, but they seem to snap easily. Do you have any advice on how to handle that, or should I give up training older branches, and just focus on styling?

I’m my experience with this type of plum the new growth thickens quickly and snaps easily when young too. I am very careful and still break branches. The older branches I just cut back to where I want movement and taper at the end of the year. Then wire the new growth in spring.
I’ve been leaving the wire on about 1-2 months and keep checking it. Then rewire if needed throughout the growing season.
They are strange growers but nice to work with in their own way.
I haven’t used raffia on these but I think it would work great. On the branches I’ve broken I used some electrical tape right away and they grew back together. So if you wrapped your older branches you could probably shape them more easily.

 

[Maloghurst]

R.I.P. Sad to see this one go. I really enjoyed the direction this was headed. Didn’t make it past the repotting in March. Should have let it go another year before repotting. These plums are very hardy. I was actually surprised it didn’t make it.

 

[HorseloverFat]

NOOOOO!


I was JUST arriving at this thread for the first time.. reading through getting SO excited...

Sorry for your loss!!! This thread is a rollercoaster ride of emotions!