Why I use cut paste to seal some wounds

[davetree]

Some people use it and some don't. When I read that Bill Valvanis said that cut paste healed wounds faster I started using it. Two years ago removing a big knob made a hole almost three inches across. Now it is almost closed up. You can still see the outline of the original cut. You can also see another knob to the left that I cut into this year. So cut paste may or may not be necessary but my cuts certainly heal faster. Plus I really don't like knobby Japanese maples.

 

[Poink88]

I too use it but mostly to help recently collected trees retain (precious) moisture. I use it on my more established trees too while doing my (meager) styling and believe it works but nothing conclusive since I am not running a comparison tests.

Nice healing there...might close up/heal totally by next year.

 

[Stan Kengai]

I also use cut paste on my trunks and larger branches. I'm sure it doesn't hurt, and it probably keeps out most diseases and fungal infections. But even with its use, I've still had some wounds that have not healed over completely. I think some of it has to do with the plant's health and the timing of the cuts. In case you haven't seen it, I found this method for removing large branches from maples on Bonsai Tonight. I'm going to try it on a 2.5" branch in the next year or two.

 

[Paradox]

Are your results for cut paste compaired to none at all or cut paste compaired to something else as well?

I've seen modelling clay with vegetable oil mixed in as an alternative to paste if it wasn't available.
I've also seen vaseline suggested as a substitute as well. I've used both of these as well as grafting wax which is extremely messy to deal with. I haven't noticed much difference so far, but its too early to tell yet for most of my trees that I've pruned.

Curious as to whether the paste/substance itself matters or simple the fact that the wound was covered.

 

[JudyB]

I've started to use cut paste in the past 2 years, and have noticed much better and faster wound healing. That is just my personal experience.

Stan, thanks for the link! You are a wealth of good info, keep up the good work.
Would love to see some of your trees posted.

 

[QuintinBonsai]

The cut paste I have smells very similar to Elmer's Glue. Not saying glue should be used as an alternative, or that I go around sniffing glue, but when I was younger I used to use it all the time. It seems that cut paste would be more practical to use on conifers than deciduous seeing as deciduous heal over much faster. That and using it on conifers keeps them from bleeding their resin all over themselves.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

A few members of my study group use Elmer's wood glue...and have for decades.

 

[davetree]

I have used Elmer's glue too. The wood glue ! It worked fine but I didn't know what was in it.

 

[C.A. Young]

The elmer's glue smelling stuff is kiyonal or some similar brand. These are glue/latex sealants, and are very wet. I use them for big root cuts, but I try to avoid them on visible areas becasue they tend to discolor the wood. For the latter I like the putty-type cut paste.

 

[Poink88]

I actually make my own with beeswax, honey, and canola oil. Works great but after this batch is finished, I plan on trying Titebond III (wood glue). I read good things about it.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

The elmer's glue smelling stuff is kiyonal or some similar brand. These are glue/latex sealants, and are very wet. I use them for big root cuts, but I try to avoid them on visible areas becasue they tend to discolor the wood. For the latter I like the putty-type cut paste.

No, I mean actual Elmer's wood glue. I have yet to try it, but can see their results are good.

I don't like kiyonal, it's very messy and impossible to remove. I use the brown Callousmate Pruning Compound for big cuts. It is very easy to apply and remove. Nothing on roots, and putty for pines.

 

[Adair M]

I have always used the cut paste that comes in the small tubs. You can get it in gray or brown.

Recently, I purchased some "electrical duct putty" from Home Depot. It's gray, and stays soft and plyable. I'm trying it out. Much less expensive than the cut paste in the little tubs. I only found it in gray. But, I only use the gray cut paste, so I'm ok with that.

 

[fore]

I haven't been consistent in using it or not. After seeing all you guys use it though I guess I'll start Dave, the wound looks very good, did you scrape the healing edge over time to minimize the bump? I know Brian has been trying this recently.

 

[MACH5]

I have used regular cut paste putty for years with good results. I am going to try the more liquid form and see.

 

[davetree]

I cut very deep, I think that helped. I also cut the edges cleanly with a very sharp knife. But I haven't touched it since

 

[nathanbs]

A few members of my study group use Elmer's wood glue...and have for decades.

Wood glue serves a great purpose to seal a cut from drying out for a very affordable price. However when you are dealing with a final cut that you are looking to callous over DO NOT USE wood glue as it is typically too hard for the callous roll to push out of the way. Commercial cut paste whether the toothpaste version or clay version is much softer and will literally push or roll out of the way of the callous that is forming, of which is very crucial. I have watched callous rolling up and over wood glue/carpenters glue and look quite ugly. On the flip side if you maybe cut off too much tissue and you need an artificial surface for the callous to consume than it would work fairly well for that. I use it exclusively at this point when i do a cut back where i intend on further cutting back later or when you are dealing with a species that you leave a small stub to account for dieback. I use toothpaste style cut paste for smaller wounds that are finished cuts and clay for larger/deeper finished cuts.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Wood glue serves a great purpose to seal a cut from drying out for a very affordable price. However when you are dealing with a final cut that you are looking to callous over DO NOT USE wood glue as it is typically too hard for the callous roll to push out of the way. Commercial cut paste whether the toothpaste version or clay version is much softer and will literally push or roll out of the way of the callous that is forming, of which is very crucial. I have watched callous rolling up and over wood glue/carpenters glue and look quite ugly. On the flip side if you maybe cut off too much tissue and you need an artificial surface for the callous to consume than it would work fairly well for that. I use it exclusively at this point when i do a cut back where i intend on further cutting back later or when you are dealing with a species that you leave a small stub to account for dieback. I use toothpaste style cut paste for smaller wounds that are finished cuts and clay for larger/deeper finished cuts.

While I do not agree with your logic, it sounds like you found something that works for you, kudos. Interesting how people can get satisfactory results with nearly opposite approaches.

Now let's get on to less controversial topics: how about soil recipes or organic vs. inorganic?

 

[nathanbs]

While I do not agree with your logic, it sounds like you found something that works for you, kudos. Interesting how people can get satisfactory results with nearly opposite approaches.

Now let's get on to less controversial topics: how about soil recipes or organic vs. inorganic?

Out of curiosity what is so different with my approach? Or different with my logic? Just asking not trying to start another heated debate. If there is potentially a better way to do something than I am already doing I want to know

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Out of curiosity what is so different with my approach? Or different with my logic? Just asking not trying to start another heated debate. If there is potentially a better way to do something than I am already doing I want to know

This is why I stay out of cut paste, soil, and feeding discussions; what works for me may or not be best for someone else. Here are the differences between your statement and my approach:

1. Calluses can roll over or under cut pastes...it doesn't matter which to me, so long as they roll. How they roll has much more to do with the cut than the paste.

2. Looking ugly while cuts heal isn't a problem for me, so long as they're healing. Once they heal, no cut paste or putty will be visible, so it really doesn't matter. In fact, I actually appreciate a well-executed cut, and in particular, the tree's response to it.

3. You stated paste would be good to create an artificial surface for the callus to roll over, which I completely agree with, and this is what I do.

4. Then you stated that use putty on large wounds and paste on small ones. I do the opposite, because water still gets under putty, the wood will rot, and then callusing slows/stops. This is not good for large wounds. Anything that won't heal in 2-3 seasons would be considered large.

5. What I didn't share, for purposes of simplification, is that I actually use both types on large wounds: paste to create that artificial surface, then a ring of putty over the cambium. Here is a shot of my J. Beech, notoriously slow to close wounds. I sawed this off 6 years ago, and it's about 30% healed. Each year, I reopen the cambium ring and apply putty to keep it from getting lazy. Here is a sequence from '09, 3 years after it was cut back.

• smooth out the deadwood, reopen the cambium
• Place ring of putty over deadwood to keep it from drying
• Place paste on the deadwood to keep it from rotting

Then, last year, I repeated the process, but also filled it with epoxy putty so it would roll over that, which it has begun to do. Here is a shot of the same wound today:

Again, if your method works for you, great. I'm just sharing what works for me, and it's interesting to see to distinctively different approaches.

 

[nathanbs]

I don't disagree with one thing you said. I think what I was trying to say needed some clarification. Plus I just realized the way I spelled it was more appropriately referring to the personality of some on this forum not you. The wood glue is so strong that a callus can only go over it and not through or under it. If you did not anticipate this in your finished scar you could get an ugly bump from the glue that is underlying. I think it is easier to carve and clean the wound to the exact anticipated finished contour(taking into consideration the mass of the callus of course)and apply paste, putty or both to protect the wound from drying out or rotting while the callus forms and heals. Occasionally you remove too much material and have to add some back that is when i mentioned the wood glue works well because it will not allow the callus to push it out of the way like it does to paste and putty. If you have to add a lot back then you must use something more substantial like jb weld or bondo or many others. My only problem with using clay putty on small cuts is it is hard for me to get it to adhere as the surface area is so small. I often use paste to help seal/glue my putty around its edges.