Pruning Unless extension is required to form new areas of foliage or branches, cut new growth back to one or two pairs of leaves following bursts of growth through the growing season. For trees that require short internodes, buds can be pinched out leaving 2 new opposing leaves as soon as they are visible, this will produce fine, twiggy growth with short internodes and also promote back-budding. Remove all growth with long internodes.
Leaf-cutting can be carried out in mid-summer, this results in smaller leaves, better ramification and stronger autumn leaf colour. However, defoliation should only be carried out on healthy trees, never in the same year as repotting, never 2 years running and never on weaker red-leaved varieties.
For highly ramified Japanese Maples, ensure that enough light can get into the canopy by removing one of each pair of leaves.
Hard-pruning and formative pruning should be carried out in Autumn after leaf-fall (preferably within 1 week) or during the mid-summer semi-dormant period when wounds can heal very quickly. Never prune during Spring as all Acer species have a habit of bleeding profusely which can severely weaken the plant or even result in the loss of branches. Ensure all wounds are sealed.
For trees that are displayed for their bare winter silhouettes, summer pruning might be considered.