When to pull cutting

[rdb00]

Context: have never taken cuttings

Sorry for the poor quality pics but I took a bunch of trident maple and elm cutting after pruning cus I thought hell why not (roughly 1mo ago)

Most of them died or are in process of dying, but one of the trident cuttings seems to either be using reserved energy or actually rooting.

I’m sort of scared to check given how short of a time period it has been… they have been in a plastic container getting misted and kept pretty humid. Heating pad underneath.


My questions:

1). When should I check for roots?
2). Since there is new growth should I open the lid and expose to air/start watering or continue to keep humid with misting and lid closed?

 

[Paradox]

IMO maples are a bit tricky to get cuttings successfully. Im not sure about trident but some Japanese maples can be propagated from cuttings more easily, others not at all.

There is a list around here somewhere with varieties of J. Maples people have tried and if they readily grew from cuttings

If you're new to taking cuttings, you might want to try learning with things that are very easy just to start to get the techniques down.

Shimpaku juniper and willow leaf ficus are pretty easy.

Good luck

 

[Attmos]

Context: have never taken cuttings

Sorry for the poor quality pics but I took a bunch of trident maple and elm cutting after pruning cus I thought hell why not (roughly 1mo ago)

Most of them died or are in process of dying, but one of the trident cuttings seems to either be using reserved energy or actually rooting.

I’m sort of scared to check given how short of a time period it has been… they have been in a plastic container getting misted and kept pretty humid. Heating pad underneath.


My questions:

1). When should I check for roots?
2). Since there is new growth should I open the lid and expose to air/start watering or continue to keep humid with misting and lid closed?

To answer your questions, to the best of my ability... don't tug on anything you think might have root growth.... apparently they are incredibly delicate at this stage.
From what I've read it can take months (plural) to know if your cutting has developed roots. You just need to continue to keep them shaded and in a humid environment. I've read that once every couple weeks, you can open it and spray the base of each with hydrogen peroxide to kill any harmful bacterial growth.

But I've also read that it can depend on the relative humidity in your area. Dryer areas don't need to worry as much about fungal or bacterial growth, so... wait until you're absolutely sure or see sickness. More humid areas might allow more contact with the cuttings (meaning you can open them more often), but because of the humidity, they require more attention as the humidity also fosters fungus and bacterial growth.

I invite anyone with more knowledge and experience to correct me or give further detail.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

My questions:

1). When should I check for roots?

Please don’t look at the roots this year

2). Since there is new growth should I open the lid and expose to air/start watering or continue to keep humid with misting and lid closed?

Your image shows new growth. Would wait a couple weeks if it continues yes, open the container a bit more time each day. Once fully open with positive results begin hardening off outside.

Use part shade. Start with an hour and increase it each day. Return to propagation area. By the end of the week if no negative results, things ought to be fine to leave outside..

Please protect from critters.

Best
DSD sends

 

[Shibui]

I also don't find that maples root easily so well done with your beginner's luck. I find seed a much quicker and more reliable propagation method for maples.
Plants with strong roots like trident - wait until you see white root tips growing out of the drain holes at the base of your cutting pot. I usually repot rooted cuttings as soon as they show roots. It does not seem to matter if that's Summer but you'll be heading into Winter soon so maybe best to leave them in the cutting pot until your normal Spring repotting time.
It is common for cuttings to start growing, even without roots. It is certainly a good sign but not yet proof of success.
I would also give them a few more weeks before opening up and reducing humidity. That might also give a few more the chance to root better. When you can see some roots, harden off gradually to ambient conditions as outlined above.

 

[rdb00]

I also don't find that maples root easily so well done with your beginner's luck. I find seed a much quicker and more reliable propagation method for maples.
Plants with strong roots like trident - wait until you see white root tips growing out of the drain holes at the base of your cutting pot. I usually repot rooted cuttings as soon as they show roots. It does not seem to matter if that's Summer but you'll be heading into Winter soon so maybe best to leave them in the cutting pot until your normal Spring repotting time.
It is common for cuttings to start growing, even without roots. It is certainly a good sign but not yet proof of success.
I would also give them a few more weeks before opening up and reducing humidity. That might also give a few more the chance to root better. When you can see some roots, harden off gradually to ambient conditions as outlined above.

I’m also planning on trying my hand at some seeds this year… the massive trident in my neighborhood has so many seeds but they are all still yellow. I’ll hold off a few weeks until they get a little darker before I collect them.

 

[Shibui]

the massive trident in my neighborhood has so many seeds but they are all still yellow. I’ll hold off a few weeks until they get a little darker before I collect them.

Trident seeds will hang on the tree well after leaf drop. Pick after leaves have dropped to ensure they are fully ripe.
I don't bother with trident seed any more. There are usually lots of seedlings around a trident so just pull seedlings in Spring and transplant to your pots.

 

[MalsRFun in TN]

This is my first year taking Japanese maple cuttings. The first group I took at the end of May without any information on how to go about it have remained green all summer in a clear plastic bin with shade protection, little misting, and a few sprays of copper fungicide. At 8 weeks, I pulled up a couple and they had one small root. At 11 weeks, I cracked the bin and after a couple of days several were brown, with no roots. Yesterday I picked up a couple of the pots (with multiple cuttings) and roots were coming out the bottom.

The surprise to me is that the larger cuttings with a number of leaves rooted at a much higher rate than the smaller ones with just a couple of leaves. The maple is Kashima and my best estimate is that 80% rooted.

So now the best strategy is to leave them in group pots through the winter?

 

[rusticana]

Context: have never taken cuttings

Sorry for the poor quality pics but I took a bunch of trident maple and elm cutting after pruning cus I thought hell why not (roughly 1mo ago)

Most of them died or are in process of dying, but one of the trident cuttings seems to either be using reserved energy or actually rooting.

I’m sort of scared to check given how short of a time period it has been… they have been in a plastic container getting misted and kept pretty humid. Heating pad underneath.


My questions:

Context: have never taken cuttings

Sorry for the poor quality pics but I took a bunch of trident maple and elm cutting after pruning cus I thought hell why not (roughly 1mo ago)

Most of them died or are in process of dying, but one of the trident cuttings seems to either be using reserved energy or actually rooting.

I’m sort of scared to check given how short of a time period it has been… they have been in a plastic container getting misted and kept pretty humid. Heating pad underneath.


My questions:

1). When should I check for roots?
2). Since there is new growth should I open the lid and expose to air/start watering or continue to keep humid with misting and lid closed?

Dont be impatient. 1 month is no time. I'm no expert but I've been dabbling in it for some time. I dont use sterilized media or any expense. Just the small pot in a baggy method. I've had more sucsess then I know how to deal with. Treat it as a numbers game. When I inspect them I pull out ant ones with visible mold or blackened stems.

Context: have never taken cuttings

Sorry for the poor quality pics but I took a bunch of trident maple and elm cutting after pruning cus I thought hell why not (roughly 1mo ago)

Most of them died or are in process of dying, but one of the trident cuttings seems to either be using reserved energy or actually rooting.

I’m sort of scared to check given how short of a time period it has been… they have been in a plastic container getting misted and kept pretty humid. Heating pad underneath.


My questions:

1). When should I check for roots?
2). Since there is new growth should I open the lid and expose to air/start watering or continue to keep humid with misting and lid closed?

Context: have never taken cuttings

Sorry for the poor quality pics but I took a bunch of trident maple and elm cutting after pruning cus I thought hell why not (roughly 1mo ago)

Most of them died or are in process of dying, but one of the trident cuttings seems to either be using reserved energy or actually rooting.

I’m sort of scared to check given how short of a time period it has been… they have been in a plastic container getting misted and kept pretty humid. Heating pad underneath.


My questions:

1). When should I check for roots?
2). Since there is new growth should I open the lid and expose to air/start watering or continue to keep humid with misting and lid closed?

Dont be impatient. One month is too early. I'd say at least 2 1/2 months but it depends on the plant. I'm no expert but have been dabling in this for some time. More sucsesses then I know what to do with. Its a numbers game. I dont use sterilized media and at no expense Just the 5 cuttings in a small pot in the baggy method. When I inspect them I pull out any ones with mold or blackened stems. Sometimes I leave the bag open to let it dry out overnight a bit. This year I gave up on some dwarf gingko ones but low and behold one had rooted. Thick tuberous things. Luckely no damage because it looks like they could break off super easily at that early stage.

1). When should I check for roots?
2). Since there is new growth should I open the lid and expose to air/start watering or continue to keep humid with misting and

 

[rusticana]

Dont be impatient. One month is too early. I'd say at least 2 1/2 months but it depends on the plant. I'm no expert but have been dabling in this for some time. More sucsesses then I know what to do with. Its a numbers game. I dont use sterilized media and at no expense Just the 5 cuttings in a small pot in the baggy method. When I inspect them I pull out any ones with mold or blackened stems. Sometimes I leave the bag open to let it dry out overnight a bit. This year I gave up on some dwarf gingko ones but low and behold one had rooted. Thick tuberous things. Luckely no damage because it looks like they could break off super easily at that early stage.

Here's my prunus meme ones this year. 2 1/2 months. Probably jumped the gun a bit. 2 out of 5 But before I waited too long and let them entangle.

 

[blackadam]

Untangling will be easy task with a bit of patience, only 2 of them

 

[rusticana]

Untangling will be easy task with a bit of patience, only 2 of them

I meant a previous batch.

 

[Ininaatigoons]

I repot cuttings the following spring. Also I baby cuttings the first year by keeping them in a refrigerator. I learned from the past they can't handle normal treatment. Last year was my first successful attempt before that they froze.