What cultivar of Japanese maple is this?

Look up putting in fridge. Saw a thread where one did that and nearly lost tree. Never tried myself so no experience but just what I’ve read
 
[IMG alt="MACH5"]https://www.bonsainut.com/data/avatars/m/12/12251.jpg?1548740467[/IMG]

MACH5

Imperial Masterpiece​

Nice little tree Bolero! Below is a kiyohime that I have had for over a decade. I nearly killed it a couple of years ago when I attempted to stall bud brake by placing it in a fridge. The dry air inside desiccated and killed all but one branch. It is now being redesigned completely out of that single branch.
 
It looks like it’s a tree in very early development so trying an experiment to see if the fridge works seems like a good idea to me. If it doesn’t work then you know more.
 
It looks like it’s a tree in very early development so trying an experiment to see if the fridge works seems like a good idea to me. If it doesn’t work then you know more.
It cost me abt $20 so I'm a bit scared...
[IMG alt="MACH5"]https://www.bonsainut.com/data/avatars/m/12/12251.jpg?1548740467[/IMG]

MACH5

Imperial Masterpiece​

Nice little tree Bolero! Below is a kiyohime that I have had for over a decade. I nearly killed it a couple of years ago when I attempted to stall bud brake by placing it in a fridge. The dry air inside desiccated and killed all but one branch. It is now being redesigned completely out of that single branch.
What about adding a misting setup or you know misting it now and then? Or adding a plastic bag over it for extra humidity
 
Dormancy is NOT due only to temperature. It is brought on by shortening daylengths as summer turns to autumn in temperate climates. Cold is only the last part of the dormancy process. Plunking a tree into a dark cold refrigerator will shock it, not induce dormancy. The dry air in the fridge is also a problem as mentioned above. Placing it in a bag with moisture can work, but it will also be a damp still environment that's perfect for mold and fungal activity.

Sure try it, see what happens, but be skeptical of it working long term, or even short term.
 
Dormancy is NOT due only to temperature. It is brought on by shortening daylengths as summer turns to autumn in temperate climates. Cold is only the last part of the dormancy process. Plunking a tree into a dark cold refrigerator will shock it, not induce dormancy. The dry air in the fridge is also a problem as mentioned above. Placing it in a bag with moisture can work, but it will also be a damp still environment that's perfect for mold and fungal activity.

Sure try it, see what happens, but be skeptical of it working long term, or even short term.
I have an entire plan for that. I will start reducing sunlight hours and eventually put the plant into the fridge for one hour, then 5 hours and then at last 24 hours... Along with a humidifier
 
Will it be okay to skip dormancy this year? Just to see the best time to keep them in the fridge so that they don't get fried by the heat and sun. I will let them be for this year without dormancy and wait till next year summer and decide whether to make them go dormant when I have summers or follow the normal cycle based on months.
 
Trying to reverse engineer dormancy out of season is very unlikely to be successful. Tree will leaf out in spring then you plan to put it in increasing shade and cold to try to trick it into dormancy without the benefit of gaining strength from growth. It will lose its leaves and have to regrow it's leaves again afterwards. The weeks to 2 months of acclimating it in and out of that artificially against its natural biological rhythm will probably weaken it anyway on top of regrowing it's leaves
 
Skipping dormancy will stress the tree a lot. It will complicate things even more.

As far as simply putting the tree into darkness for longer periods to replicate seasons, not sure that will work as you think it will. Shortening daylength in temperate zones is not just fewer hours of sunlight. It is the angle and apparently the color of that light. In late summer and autumn, sunlight hits temperate zones at less acute angle. That shift changes the quality of light because the light has to pass through more of the atmosphere. In tropical zones, Zone 12, that light pretty much remains the same, since the angle of sunlight remains pretty much the same, or at least there isn't a dramatic variation.

I have no evidence of this, but read through here:

You can plan, but this process is pretty complicated and reproducing it in a manner that keeps the tree healthy won't be easy.

There's also the process of getting the tree to EMERGE from dormancy...
 
Skipping dormancy will stress the tree a lot. It will complicate things even more.

As far as simply putting the tree into darkness for longer periods to replicate seasons, not sure that will work as you think it will. Shortening daylength in temperate zones is not just fewer hours of sunlight. It is the angle and apparently the color of that light. In late summer and autumn, sunlight hits temperate zones at less acute angle. That shift changes the quality of light because the light has to pass through more of the atmosphere. In tropical zones, Zone 12, that light pretty much remains the same, since the angle of sunlight remains pretty much the same, or at least there isn't a dramatic variation.

I have no evidence of this, but read through here:

You can plan, but this process is pretty complicated and reproducing it in a manner that keeps the tree healthy won't be easy.

There's also the process of getting the tree to EMERGE from dormancy...
I totally agree, but then how does a tree imported from northern hemisphere to the southern hemisphere acclimatize? The summer and winter seasons are opposite in both.
 
W
Skipping dormancy will stress the tree a lot. It will complicate things even more.

As far as simply putting the tree into darkness for longer periods to replicate seasons, not sure that will work as you think it will. Shortening daylength in temperate zones is not just fewer hours of sunlight. It is the angle and apparently the color of that light. In late summer and autumn, sunlight hits temperate zones at less acute angle. That shift changes the quality of light because the light has to pass through more of the atmosphere. In tropical zones, Zone 12, that light pretty much remains the same, since the angle of sunlight remains pretty much the same, or at least there isn't a dramatic variation.

I have no evidence of this, but read through here:

You can plan, but this process is pretty complicated and reproducing it in a manner that keeps the tree healthy won't be easy.

There's also the process of getting the tree to EMERGE from dormancy...
What will be the consequences? Why won't the trees be healthy?
 
W

What will be the consequences? Why won't the trees be healthy?
The tree will decline and eventually die with no dormancy period. That decline might take a couple of years, or it might happen in a year. It will be sparser, weaker growth, dropping branches, increased susceptibility to insects and disease, etc., as the tree fades in health. Maples are simply not genetically adapted for year-round growth. They're not even reliable as landscape plants in teh Southern U.S.--there are hot weather varieties, but they still require dormancy

And take the "success" of others who grow maples in tropical climates with a grain of salt. They usually have specific climates that allow some maples to succeed.

what you're attempting is not easy even for experienced growers.
 
I totally agree, but then how does a tree imported from northern hemisphere to the southern hemisphere acclimatize? The summer and winter seasons are opposite in both.
The importers dont care about that. You bought the tree it's your problem, basically. yeah, they will skip a dormancy period, but they will be weakened by doing that.
 
It’s easy to want the exotic tree’s that don’t grow in our environment. Caring for a tree like this will be a job in itself. Have you examined your local wild species?
 
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