UME winter care

Lynn E

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Any suggestions for winter care for an older Japanese Flowering Apricot> Shohin size, fat trunk in a bonsai pot with free-draining soil.
I'm in New Jersey --zone 7a.
My choices are--outside on the ground, mulched with pine bark chips...
--enclosed, unheated porch, temps steady all winter at 65 degrees...
--in the house under a grow light, room temp about 68 degrees

Any help will be appreciated. Lynn
 
Any suggestions for winter care for an older Japanese Flowering Apricot> Shohin size, fat trunk in a bonsai pot with free-draining soil.
I'm in New Jersey --zone 7a.
My choices are--outside on the ground, mulched with pine bark chips...
--enclosed, unheated porch, temps steady all winter at 65 degrees...
--in the house under a grow light, room temp about 68 degrees

Any help will be appreciated. Lynn
Outside. Shelter in unheated porch will force early bud break. Inside will weaken it and eventually kill it.

Apricots, like all temperate zone deciduous trees require accumulated "chill hours" to be healthy.
http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/content/47/12/1826.full
http://www.raintreenursery.com/chill_hours.html

The pertinent parts of the Japanese apricot article above:
"If the chilling requirement is not satisfied, budbreak will be uneven and delayed, shoot vigor will be reduced, and flower development will be poor"

"The difficulty that a number of deciduous fruit trees have in adapting to environmental conditions different from those of their origin is well known and is mainly the result of the need for adequate satisfaction of their chilling requirements for flowering."
 
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It is a temperate tree. It needs dormancy. Dormancy is an extended period (several weeks - 3 months or so) of temperatures below 40 degrees.
If you can, put the tree next to the foundation of your house (preferably on the north side) and mulch it in.
 
I'm in 7b or 8a, and here's what I do with my umes.
November-December, they sit outside unprotected. When the soil freezes, it just temporarily slows buds' swelling.
January-February, the one that blooms will bloom, and I keep it from freezing by putting it in the garage on cold nights.
The one that doesn't bloom just stays outside dormant.
March, I will let the blooming one freeze lightly after blooming, but not get much below 25 or it goes back in the garage.
Prune and repot late March.

So let's see it! Not many umes out there. Can you tell if it has flower buds set to bloom in a few months?
 
Thanks all--thought I knew how to care for this tree. It had been outside mulched in with the pines etc and had bloomed reliably. Then I read "needs significant winter protection" and thought I was doing this all wrong.
Brian, if my son ever returns my camera I'll try to post a photo. There are flower buds for the winter --not as many as last year. Lynn
 
Keep in mind Lynn that Brain is in Alabama which experiences quite a different winter than New Jersey.

He can get away with leaving his tree out at times when you probably cant.
 
Thanks all--thought I knew how to care for this tree. It had been outside mulched in with the pines etc and had bloomed reliably. Then I read "needs significant winter protection" and thought I was doing this all wrong.
Brian, if my son ever returns my camera I'll try to post a photo. There are flower buds for the winter --not as many as last year. Lynn

Ume are actually very winter hardy. The issue with them is that they tend to start moving in the dead of winter. This makes them more susceptible to late season hard freezes. I had ume growing in my zone 6 back yard in MA for several years without problems. With potted trees, I suspect getting the soil frozen and keeping it frozen as long as possible, mulched, out of winter sun and wind is the way to go.
 
Keep in mind Lynn that Brain is in Alabama which experiences quite a different winter than New Jersey.

He can get away with leaving his tree out at times when you probably cant.
Heh heh, Freudian slip, I'm sure;).
 
@Brian Van Fleet @Owen Reich

been learning a lot from your posts - thank you both so much!

I am having a hard time sourcing info about over-wintering prunus mume in my climate (Montreal, Quebec, 6a, with extended periods of -15 to -30C = 5 to -22F)

I have reached out to a few people, but nobody around here has much info/experience with prunus mume

I understand that prunus mume goes dormant, but would these do well in 2C (35F) from December to March? (i.e. can they be put in the same coldframe as my maples?)

Also, i'm assuming that they need light during dormancy for the flowers? (i.e. i need a coldframe that allows light, both to allow flowering and to enjoy it)

Brian, you gave me the bug!!

If these don't require climate that is very different from my maples, i think i might give it a try! I don't have the time/space to accommodate a second climate zone.

Thank you!
Derek
 
I don’t see any reason why they wouldn’t thrive at a steady 35f in the winter. It seems Ume go dormant fairly early, and rest again for a few months after blooming. Mine have tolerated freezing temperatures before and after blooming, though I try to protect it after blooming.

I doubt they need light to flower, but you’ll want to be vigilant against fungal disease with good air circulation.
 
Thank you so much @Brian Van Fleet !

this is great news! Thank you!

a lot of what i am reading online put emphasis on disease/pests, as you did -- i'm going to keep reading and may write to you for some tips if i end up sourcing one in Canada :)

my back-up plan are apple/pear trees, of which there are millions to choose from in Quebec! (many abandoned orchards as well)
 
Thank you so much @Brian Van Fleet !

this is great news! Thank you!

a lot of what i am reading online put emphasis on disease/pests, as you did -- i'm going to keep reading and may write to you for some tips if i end up sourcing one in Canada :)

my back-up plan are apple/pear trees, of which there are millions to choose from in Quebec! (many abandoned orchards as well)
Anytime my friend.
 
I'm in zone 5b, north of Chicago, so my climate is only a little different than Montreal.

Ume are a problem here, not because they can't take the cold, they do just fine the early and middle part of the winter. The issue is, they wake up quickly from dormancy once their chill requirement is met. In late January or early February we tend to get a late winter thaw. Usually a few days to a week above freezing. Then this is followed by a cold snap that can be as brutal as our coldest of the winter. Ume will wake up during the later winter thaw, maybe even get a bloom or two out, then the bitter cold returns and temps of -17 C or 0 F will damage or kill the tree. Sometime we even get temperature below -17 C or 0 F after this late winter thaw. If you can keep the Ume above 23 or 25 F or above -5 C after the late winter thaw the ume should be fine. You will get blooms and normal amount of vegetative growth in spring.

So your protected storage will work fine. But ume can not be grown in the ground without occasional losses of flowers or sometimes vegetative freeze damage in our climates.

For a similar, flowering before leaves appear tree, that will do well in the ground or in a pot without temperature protection in Montreal look into the northern or cold adapted seed grown semi-wild forms of Prunus armeniaca, and Prunus manchuriana the culinary apricot. Cultivars selected and grafted for fruit production often were selected from stock from warmer parts of their range, but the ones from seed, selected for planting as windbreaks and wildlife food are winter hardy into the warmer parts of zone 3.

Another choice is the North American wild plum - Prunus americana - also flowers before leaves appear. Again avoid grafted trees, wild stock will work better.

In the apple family, Amelanchier species, any of them, will flower before leaves appear and do well in bonsai pots. There are Amelanchier species, 3 or 4 native to Canada. I like the hybrid from nurseries, Amelanchier x grandiflora as it tends to sucker less and will stay single trunk tree if you reduce it to a single trunk tree. This is the most tree like of the Amelanchier, the rest are shrubs, and will produce suckers occasionally. Avoid Amelanchier stolonifera, as its name suggests, this one has a strong tendency to produce suckers. All of the Amelanchier are very, very winter hardy, most through all of zone 4, a few species are hardy into zone 3.
 
@Leo in N E Illinois thank you so much!!

Much more information than I could have ever hoped for! I'm going to look into all of these options!

So many good options and alternatives it seems!

Thank you!!
 
Good luck on your quest. If you find any.. They are expensive.

I actually found a seemingly infinite source of very fairly priced plums (red, white, and blends) and cherries, as well as apples, pears, and more. it was right under my nose all along. When I reached out to you privately, i also reached out to a few other Canadians. Once the word was out there, it was only a matter of time.

I'm going to hold off on the purchase though. I need a walk-in size space to house my trees over winter before I start complicating my life with the introduction of different species and potentially new forms of disease and fungus. my little cold frame is working well, but everything from watering to simply looking at the trees is terribly inconvenient.
 
I actually found a seemingly infinite source of very fairly priced plums (red, white, and blends) and cherries, as well as apples, pears, and more. it was right under my nose all along. When I reached out to you privately, i also reached out to a few other Canadians. Once the word was out there, it was only a matter of time.

I'm going to hold off on the purchase though. I need a walk-in size space to house my trees over winter before I start complicating my life with the introduction of different species and potentially new forms of disease and fungus. my little cold frame is working well, but everything from watering to simply looking at the trees is terribly inconvenient.
Nice.. Good to know. I'm in the process of building a greenhouse....have used garage for the past winter and borrowed my fathers greenhouse.
 
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