tree4me
Shohin
I had this shimp for about a year and finally got the courage to bend the s#!% out of it. Come spring into a 10 x 10 pond basket for a few years and who knows I may have something. Any recommendations from here?
Twisting shimpaku
- Thread starter tree4me
- Start date
Perfect, let it stabilise for a year. Do not play with an idea to remove this or that branch in this episode, you can let all them grow for at least future deadwood. You can leave the wire for up to two years, but check it.
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You've put in interesting movement but you need to be careful with the wiring. You have strangled it in several places. 45 degree coils (or even a bit shallower) but not less. If too lateral you risk cutting sap flow severely and reducing the growth of the tree. There should be an unobstructed line of flow from the roots to the tip. In the meantime, you can't re-do it because you will damage the tree so be ready with your wire cutters!
This is the thread that inspired me to try it, very good one if you haven't seen it yet: http://www.bonsainut.com/threads/one-more-time-yamadori-style-junipers.4789/
...but not too many after pics has been shared. I've done it with three trees and are well.
...but not too many after pics has been shared. I've done it with three trees and are well.
tree4me
Shohin
yea, that's the the thread that inspired me as well. I have 3 more to do next week end.
tree4me
Shohin
Thanks for the heads up. I know the wiring is a little rough. Working on trees this size is tough especially with sharp bends . The raffia is pretty thick where the coils are tight on the wire. I'll keep an eye on it through the next 2 years or so, wire cutters in hand.
A couple of comments:
1). There's no reason to use a pond basket or colander with a juniper. They naturally produce a fibrous root system, so there's reason not to use a regular pot.
2). MichaelS already mentioned the wiring. The wire looks pretty bright. As in shiny. Was it annealed? Usually annealed copper isn't shiny, but more of a dull red after being placed on the tree. Annealed wire is a LOT softer and easier to use than non-annealed wire.
The other issue with the wire is using the proper size wire. Too small and it won't hold. Too large and you can't coil it properly. I can see several places where your wire is too large. So, you really need to have a supply of all sizes.
Here's a picture of some of my wiring on a JBP.
If you look closely, you can see that my wire lightly touches the branch. It's a myth that the wire should not touch. I used several sizes of wire, and sonetimes I had to stop using heavier wire as I wired the branch out. I then changed to thinner wire for the thinner parts of the branch. I followed along with the heavier wire to create a good anchor.
Wiring is not easy. Practice, practice, practice!
Looks like your juniper is off to a great start!
1). There's no reason to use a pond basket or colander with a juniper. They naturally produce a fibrous root system, so there's reason not to use a regular pot.
2). MichaelS already mentioned the wiring. The wire looks pretty bright. As in shiny. Was it annealed? Usually annealed copper isn't shiny, but more of a dull red after being placed on the tree. Annealed wire is a LOT softer and easier to use than non-annealed wire.
The other issue with the wire is using the proper size wire. Too small and it won't hold. Too large and you can't coil it properly. I can see several places where your wire is too large. So, you really need to have a supply of all sizes.
Here's a picture of some of my wiring on a JBP.
If you look closely, you can see that my wire lightly touches the branch. It's a myth that the wire should not touch. I used several sizes of wire, and sonetimes I had to stop using heavier wire as I wired the branch out. I then changed to thinner wire for the thinner parts of the branch. I followed along with the heavier wire to create a good anchor.
Wiring is not easy. Practice, practice, practice!
Looks like your juniper is off to a great start!
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tree4me
Shohin
Thanks for the input Adair. I used stripped copper as that was what I have for now but I see your point and yes I do need practice...lol. The branch under the cloth is about 6" long. I'm leaving as a sacrifice branch to help develop the nebari and trunk. Is this a proper procedure for junipers or will it just cause reverse taper in that area?
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
If that wire is not annealed....
You did a Damn good job with it!
You Will cream yourself when you use annealed wire.
I take the stripped copper, cut a foot or so length, and roll it in a whip cream tub, then it comes out the perfect size to throw on the stove.
A few quarter turns till it's all red....
Cream!
I would keep the underside of the sacrifice clear....
If it roots, which it looks to want to, it won't get flow from the base to fatten it, but rather from its roots, which seems will just make it a pain to cut clean off with no deadwood lurking at the soil line.
Friggin nice!
Sorce
Junipers are not known for making great nebari. They're kind of the exception to the rule! That low, you could Jin it, or remove it entirely. Junipers almost always feature some deadwood and/or Shari. So, I think a good long term plan would be to Jin it, and have a line of twisted Shari go up the trunk from there.
Source is right about annealing it. I wouldn't cut it in one foot long lengths, I'd make larger coils and anneal it on the BBQ grill. The larger the coil the less bending you have to do while working with it. The Japanese have very large coils!
Julian Adams sells a starter set of some of all sizes at a reasonable price. Www.adamsbonsai.com
tree4me
Shohin
Thanks! No, the wire is not annealed. I used 12 and 14 gauge on the trunk and 18 on the branches. Had some extra from an electrical job. Need to pickup some annealed though and try it.
Paradox
Marine Bonsologist
The difference will blow your mind
Mike Corazzi
Masterpiece
I have a procumbens that made a bit of nebari.
Course, it's been making it for 20+ years in my possession. Started as a staked yard bush from nursery.
Wish it didn't have that big multi-bent branch low on left but I don't think it could be removed without making a true mess.
What I took OFF those many years ago would probably have made about 7-8 more trees (bushes)
There's also a big crossing front root that I will assess when I repot it into the round pot I have picked out for it.
Want to see what kind of feeder roots are connected to the end of the crossing root.
chicago1980
Omono
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Wonderful wiring Adair.
The best way I have learned to wire this year is studying wire with Masters. Mauro Stemberger has absolutely been the best lesson/workshop I have taken this year. He spent the entire two days focusing on wiring and understanding how important it is for the trees health.
You just love wire porn don't you Adair.
Heh...Ju wanna bya wire tree man??
Check it.....Touch it!, ss,ok
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
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chicago1980
Omono
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hahaha, Mauro is a trip in person. Favorite quotes of the workshop.
Mauro looks over my wire day two and told me: You must have (Hand Gesture) beacuse you doing good wiring.
Mauro: do you have a brush
Me: Yes a little one
Mauro: ohh, ok dont tell your girlfriend I have a big one
Mauro to a student: What is this! You create a pepperoni bonsai (my favorite)
Mauro to a student: Go take a nap.
I did not see any of the shirts available for purchase.
I think the guys who made the shirt visited from Michigan.
Wiring is what makes bonsai unique.
Gardeners use "Clip and Grow". Topiary is created by shearing. Sometimes wire cages are used for support. Trees can be espaliered onto walls.
But only bonsai uses wire to shape and train.
To me, wiring is part of the art. I see bonsai as more than "a tree in a pot". I see bonsai as " a trained tree in a pot". I guess this is where I disagree with the "Naturalist School" of bonsai. I see bonsai as representations, in miniature, of what we would want trees to look like. Not necessarily what they do look like. There's the "art". And for conifers, to be able to achieve this requires wire.
Its perfectly acceptable to show confiers with wire. Deciduous trees should not have wire when shown. The reason for this is due to the nature of the wood. It can take conifers several years for the wood to lignify and set in place. Deciduous trees tend to lignify within weeks. So wire is kept on for a much shorter time on deciduous trees.
So, I believe wiring is an essential skill anyone practicing bonsai should learn to do well.
Mike Corazzi
Masterpiece
It's handy for electricians, too.
Mike Corazzi
Masterpiece
Electrician's bonsai. 
