Trunk thickening - perform branch maintenance or leave untouched?

[zeejet]

I've labored over the topic of optimizing trunk size growth in containers since I started the hobby this January and was under the impression that I should plant in a large (within reason) container and leave it alone - I'm now realizing that side branches can thicken dramatically fast on vigorous species after observing my elms, ficuses and trident maple this season. I wish to avoid massive scarring on the lower trunk, but is letting growth run completely untouched the only way to maximize growth? Or is some intentional and selective pruning beneficial during the growth process in order to reign in unwanted swelling and minimize wound size moving forward?

I am also aware that vigorous lower branches can be used as sacrifice branches, but this seems to be somewhat outdated advice as a lot of modern bonsai horticultural discussions seem to question the actual utility of low sacrifice branches as they pertain to developing taper.

Anyhow, any advice on how to approach trunk growing for vigorous species? Do I prune or let it run untouched? If I should prune, what should I be looking for when making cut decisions?

 

[penumbra]

Could you post a picture? You know, a thousands words and such.

 

[zeejet]

Could you post a picture? You know, a thousands words and such.

I suppose I can post pics of some trees I wish to grow, but I was asking more of a broad question about whether to cut back branches during trunk thickening or not as branches can easily get too thick if left unchecked. Unless of course it's considered easy to build new primary branches - I just wasn't sure if relying on backbudding in the right places is a prudent strategy once the trunk is thick enough.

 

[e~b]

This thread has the type of info you are looking for: https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/trying-to-wrap-my-head-around-trunk-thickening.63433/

 

[M. Frary]

I'm thinking that you're only using the lower portion of the trunk.
If you don't need branches low on the trunk cut them off now.
The part you plan on chopping off will thicken it just fine. Letting the stump heal where the lower branches were while it grows.
Once you get the desired diameter and chop it down branches will sprout again. Letting you select the ones you want to keep for final design.

 

[Shibui]

This topic has so many shades of grey. I don't think there's one correct answer.

Some species - Ficus rubiginosa and Banksia serrata are 2 that I've worked with - continue to thicken trunks even in small containers and even when pruned regularly so no need for sacrifice branches or other trunk thickening measures.

While added growth will usually add thickness to trunks, sometimes the scars left afterward are not worth the extra trunk thickness. There are times I forgo the extra thickness in favour of a scar free trunk. On species that look well with dead wood scars are not always a problem so sacrifice branches may still be an option.

I am also aware that vigorous lower branches can be used as sacrifice branches, but this seems to be somewhat outdated advice as a lot of modern bonsai horticultural discussions seem to question the actual utility of low sacrifice branches as they pertain to developing taper.

Not sure when this became outdated. I still use lower sacrifice branches on junipers to size and taper to the lower parts of developing trunks. Those sacrifice branches are usually converted to jin so the scars are not an issue.

It probably comes down to what results you will be happy with and how long you want to spend achieving that result.
Really thick trunk quickly with faults and scars for years after.
Moderate thick trunk with fewer faults and scars.