Trident Maple help

Devilrocker

Seedling
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Location
Western Pa
USDA Zone
6b
I have had this Trident for a week now. I've noticed on some of its leaves the tips look burnt. I think I'm watering him enough. He not in that much sun either. How does it look overall.
 

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Hmm. The leaves look chloritic. The tips of some also appear to possibly have damage s mentioned.

Wondering about the condition of its roots?

Beat
DSD sends
 
Hmm. The leaves look chloritic. The tips of some also appear to possibly have damage s mentioned.

Wondering about the condition of its roots?

Beat
DSD sends
I'm trying to keep it alive until spring so I can get him into a better pot with better soil. I ordered some fertilizer also so will that help?
 
I'm trying to keep it alive until spring so I can get him into a better pot with better soil. I ordered some fertilizer also so will that help?

It might do the trick if the roots are in good shape.
 
The yellow leaves with green veins look like chlorosis to me. That happened to one of my bougainvillea pretty severely and I could not figure it out for a while. I finally read that it can occur from lack of iron or magnesium. Also from compacted soil with poor permeability. So I repotted into much better draining soil and added some chelated iron and epsom salt. It took a couple weeks but it did come back strong , dark green, and bushy. Hope that helps
 
The yellow leaves with green veins look like chlorosis to me. That happened to one of my bougainvillea pretty severely and I could not figure it out for a while. I finally read that it can occur from lack of iron or magnesium. Also from compacted soil with poor permeability. So I repotted into much better draining soil and added some chelated iron and epsom salt. It took a couple weeks but it did come back strong , dark green, and bushy. Hope that helps
I do plan on repotting with new soil in the spring. I used some fertilizer 2 weeks ago. Will it be ok till then. I do see a root coming out the bottom of the pot.
 
Hmm. One needs their trees healthy and robust before a repot.

Depends on whether the fertilizer was long lasting or not. And if the tree is recovering.

If liquid use every two weeks.

We use Osmocote Plus pellets for tridents and liquid fertilizer. Miracid (Miracle gro is a really good one for this situation).

How about posting some new images

Cheers
DSD sends
 
Hmm. One needs their trees healthy and robust before a repot.

Depends on whether the fertilizer was long lasting or not. And if the tree is recovering.

If liquid use every two weeks.

We use Osmocote Plus pellets for tridents and liquid fertilizer. Miracid (Miracle gro is a really good one for this situation).

How about posting some new images

Cheers
DSD sends
Here are some pictures from today. I don't have the bag of the fertilizer but here is the Amazon link.


I sprinkled some on the surface on the 19th.PXL_20240629_185029233.jpgPXL_20240629_185044878.jpgPXL_20240629_185100439.jpgPXL_20240629_185053957.jpgPXL_20240629_185127851.jpgPXL_20240629_185145305.jpg
 
Bottom of pot looks a bit dry to me? But just trying to tell from pictures. When you water it assume you soak it well allowing entire root ball to get wet?
 
Bottom of pot looks a bit dry to me? But just trying to tell from pictures. When you water it assume you soak it well allowing entire root ball to get wet?
I did water after I took these pictures. I use the hose on my sink to soak it. I'm always afraid to over/under water my trees.
 
If you have a good substrate, which it looks like do, you should water the tree until the water drains from the bottom….and then a bit more water as the drainage continues. Does the plastic pot your using does drain well?
 
Here are some pictures from today. I don't have the bag of the fertilizer but here is the Amazon link.


I sprinkled some on the surface on the 19th.
Not the difference one would look for. Seems a bit improved though.

Interesting. Looked for literature on this product. I NPK is a bit off from what we use, but not significant. Touted as slow release with micros, but can’t tell what micros are in the products.for their postings. No fact sheet. Seems like a nice Mom and Pop startup company.

Nevertheless, it’s a slow release fertilizer and will take quite some time to show full results.

Faster results would be shown by Miracle gro (or even faster results use chelated iron). Both are usually found in the local garden shop. Miracle gro is a quick acting liquid fertilizer product. Can be used weekly, likely best at 1/2 strength at these intervals. Better less than more at this point.

If the tree is in bonsai media, likely can water at least once a day at this time of the year.

To guage water needs. Stick a chopstick in the soil a couple inches deep and wait a minute. Then pull the chopstick out and see if it is moist or almost dry. Wet don’t water, moist can water, dry should water.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
If you have a good substrate, which it looks like do, you should water the tree until the water drains from the bottom….and then a bit more water as the drainage continues. Does the plastic pot your using does drain well?
I usually let the pot fill up a bit with water let it drain. Do that 3-4 times. The pot drains very well.
 
Not the difference one would look for. Seems a bit improved though.

Interesting. Looked for literature on this product. I NPK is a bit off from what we use, but not significant. Touted as slow release with micros, but can’t tell what micros are in the products.for their postings. No fact sheet. Seems like a nice Mom and Pop startup company.

Nevertheless, it’s a slow release fertilizer and will take quite some time to show full results.

Faster results would be shown by Miracle gro (or even faster results use chelated iron). Both are usually found in the local garden shop. Miracle gro is a quick acting liquid fertilizer product. Can be used weekly, likely best at 1/2 strength at these intervals. Better less than more at this point.

If the tree is in bonsai media, likely can water at least once a day at this time of the year.

To guage water needs. Stick a chopstick in the soil a couple inches deep and wait a minute. Then pull the chopstick out and see if it is moist or almost dry. Wet don’t water, moist can water, dry should water.

Cheers
DSD sends
Should I switch over to miracle gro? I still see bits of the fertilizer in the medium so I would wait but I would switch for the benefit of the tree. Also what NPK ratio should I be looking for?

Thanks for the chopstick suggestion. I'm super new to the hobby and trying to learn so much.
 
Should I switch over to miracle gro? I still see bits of the fertilizer in the medium so I would wait but I would switch for the benefit of the tree. Also what NPK ratio should I be looking for?
Don’t switch.

As long as you didn’t over fertilize, both can be used at once. One slow release, on quick release. Just do not push down the fertilizer gas pedal and overdo the concentration (1/2 strength) and all will be fine. Use for the next two weeks and wait, If good switch to every two weeks.

Have been using both for six years and use every two weeks 1/2 strength until just before leaf drop for maples. So when the

Please do not apply Miracle gro when the day is predicted to be over 90F. Just wait for a break in the weather.
Thanks for the chopstick suggestion. I'm super new to the hobby and trying to learn so much.

You are most welcome! That’s what we are here for, to help. Pretty sure all of us remember what it was like to be new to the hobby 😉

Please check in again a couple weeks after first application.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
Please check in again a couple weeks after first application.
Here is an update I've done 2 rounds of the miracle gro. I see the leaves are getting greener so I guess that's a good sign. Some of the leaves still have burnt tips. It's been really hot but it's not in full sun and I'm watering every day.
 

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On another tack what is the pH of your water? Is it city water or from a well? If the pH is basic then that could
effect your iron availability.
 
So great to see this! Likely the tips will stay crispy. Once leaf tips are damaged, there is usually no help for that part of the leaf.

Would keep up the treatment through the summer.

Experience over the years has shown often the simplest answer is usually the solution to bonsai issues. Now if the tree was Phoenix or SoCal the simplest answer would be to look at the hardness of the water first.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
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