Trident Maple branch tips black

[TnKidd]

So I have two Taiwanese Trident Maples in 1x1x1 grow boxes. The tip of the branches are turning black, maybe dead. There are some buds trying to grow there but it looks to me the branch is dead/ in the process of dying. Does this look like anything in particular to anyone? Just noticed it today, can't have been there for more than a day or two.

Past week the lowest it has dropped to is 39°f/4°c
And to my knowledge, waking up at the crack of dawn I haven't seen any frost but mostly we have been at temps of ~65°/18° during the day and ~45°/7° at night. It has been rather rainy this past week though. I have only had these since March 1st.

Planted in fresh topsoil and miracle grow tree and shrub mix 50/50.


Should I be worried and should I trim the "dead" parts off?

Thanks!

 

[namnhi]

Looks like just the tips of the branch... And everything else seems to grow just fine. Cut of the dead part and you should be fine. Your soil mix could hold too much water so just be careful on the water.

 

[hemmy]

So I have two Taiwanese Trident Maples in 1x1x1 grow boxes. The tip of the branches are turning black, maybe dead. There are some buds trying to grow there but it looks to me the branch is dead/ in the process of dying. Does this look like anything in particular to anyone? Just noticed it today, can't have been there for more than a day or two.

Past week the lowest it has dropped to is 39°f/4°c
And to my knowledge, waking up at the crack of dawn I haven't seen any frost but mostly we have been at temps of ~65°/18° during the day and ~45°/7° at night. It has been rather rainy this past week though. I have only had these since March 1st.

Planted in fresh topsoil and miracle grow tree and shrub mix 50/50.
View attachment 239165View attachment 239166

Should I be worried and should I trim the "dead" parts off?

Thanks!

Search anthracose fungus to see if it matches your problem. It affects my Japanese maples but I haven’t had problems with the tridents.

 

[John P.]

I’d water less and treat with copper spray.

 

[Shibui]

I do not like to see topsoil included in a potting mixture. Some people can manage care to suit that sort of mix but usually topsoil causes more problems than it is worth. I would suggest the roots have been far too wet over winter and spring. That seems to make trees susceptible to whatever fungus cause this dieback.
Prune all affected tips back to healthy wood. Let the mix get a little dry before watering. I would probably also use a fungicide to prevent further infection.

 

[cheap_walmart_art]

I'm in your neck of the woods and most of my trees are in a very granular mix (2:1:1 DE, PUMICE, LAVA) and they are still retaining water with all this rainy weather we've been having. They will dry out on top but be very damp an inch under. I'd agree with everyone else tocut out the dead stuff and let your trees dry out a little. Maybe hit with some fungicide also. Not sure where you are in TN but up here on the plateau I've had my battles with fungal issues this time of year leading into summer. I'm hoping things go better this year after following the article @markyscott wrote on winter dormancy and preventative spraying.

 

[WNC Bonsai]

How were they overwintered? I lost the ends of several hornbeam branches like that and I think it was winter dessication. They were in a protected location and mulched well but the exposed ends of branches didn’t make it. The beech right next to it did fine.

 

[TnKidd]

Yes, I have come to realize how bad it was to use the soil. It's hard for me to judge when to water, I usually wait till the top dries out and pulls away from the side of the box. Would the chopstick method work with topsoil?
Just going to try and get them through this year till it is safe to repot.

So today I will trim back the dead areas and I have some Draconil

Search anthracose fungus to see if it matches your problem.

That was one of the first things I thought about. It doesnt seem to be but I'm gonna research a little bit more, looking at it last night and only having the pictures on my phone to compare to makes me not

How were they overwintered?

That I am unsure of, I did not receive them until the beginning of March but I have protected them with tarp for every frost since then....I believe. This problem seems to have popped up over the past week and I am 98% sure we have not had any frost in at least the past 2 weeks.



I'm in Middle Tn about 45 min south of Nashville.

 

[TnKidd]

Sorry Daconil fungicide... would that be ok?

 

[0soyoung]

Nothing but a systemic fungicide is going to kill an existing infection. Sprays only nix exterior spores laying on the surfaces.

The standard drill with fungal infections is to remove the (suspected) infected tissues that are just a source of continuing infection, and spray. A solution of 2 tablespoons of 3% hydrogen peroxide (from the grocery/pharmacy) in a quart of water will nix spores and bacteria that are laying around at the time. Fungicides like Daconil leave a residue that will nix incoming spores for a few weeks or until washed off by rain/sprinkling.

 

[TnKidd]

Would it work best to mix the hydrogen peroxide in a squirt/mist bottle?

 

[0soyoung]

Would it work best to mix the hydrogen peroxide in a squirt/mist bottle?

That is what I do. My sprayer has graduations marked on it. I dump in two tablespoons of 3% peroxide and then fill it up to the 32 oz line with tap water.

 

[TnKidd]

That is what I do.

Awesome, sounds good. I really appreciate it. We will see what happens!

 

[just.wing.it]

That is what I do. My sprayer has graduations marked on it. I dump in two tablespoons of 3% peroxide and then fill it up to the 32 oz line with tap water.

0so!
Do you think there is any benefit or danger in using a stronger dilution, even straight 3%?

 

[0soyoung]

0so!
Do you think there is any benefit or danger in using a stronger dilution, even straight 3%?

I've heard of people doing it, but I dunno.
I suppose you could just dump a pint out of the bottle into the pot of one of your trees (should make it froth like a mad dog) and see how the tree does.
It is effective for its purpose at 300 ppm. I mix to 900 ppm (2 tbls - to compensate for unknown degradation of the open bottle over the time span of close to 6 months) and that is okay as far as I can tell. At some point it will burn the tissues one is trying to protect.