The proper tool for thick root pruning?

[The Warm Canuck]

Good day, as the title implies, I'm looking for the correct tool for cutting back thick roots, or even knawing away below a trunk. I've seen people use knuckle cutters, knob cutters or even called root cutters. I'm looking to buy something in Canada and want to make sure I buy the correct tool.

 

[ShimpakuBonsai]

I think a root cutter would be the best tool for that.
See the link for more info about this tool.
Link: https://www.mybonsaitools.com/root-cutter/

 

[Colorado]

This is what I use. The large size is really helpful.

Root Cutters

Joshua Roth has long been the standard for quality and performance in bonsai tools. Amongst the changing landscape of tool-making, Joshua Roth continues to stand by the time-honored traditions of its original foundry offering consistently high-quality, durable, dependable tools...

goods.bonsaimirai.com

 

[Maiden69]

If you have LARGE roots to cut use a small (keyhole) saw... cheapest option with the cleanest cut results. For regular roots I use my by-pass pruners.



Or you can buy the Kaneshin large root cutters from Jonas for less money than the Joshua Roth.

Root Cutters

Root cutters are designed for removing large roots with a flat cut. Length (Small): 7" Length (Medium): 8.25" Length (Large): 10.75" Made in Japan by Kaneshin

store.bonsaitonight.com

 

[Cajunrider]

If you have LARGE roots to cut use a small (keyhole) saw... cheapest option with the cleanest cut results. For regular roots I use my by-pass pruners.

View attachment 501046

Same here. For especially important big roots, I often use my grafting knife to cut through the outer layers before using the saw.

 

[Maiden69]

I often use my grafting knife to cut through the outer layers before using the saw.

Buy a medium to large size Japanese keyhole saw... they cut so clean you rarely need to clean the edges with a knife. I use this one for almost everything from roots to medium trunks.

Amazon.com

And this one for very delicate branches

Amazon.com

 

[Tieball]

I use a Japanese keyhole saw. It’s not really an expensive saw. Works perfect. I’ve used the saw for many years. I found that other cutters cut the roots but quite often the cutter somewhat crushes the root and loosens up root bark on the root parts I want to keep. The problem could be my technique though. The keyhole saw cuts clean and is easily maneuvered around roots. I’m a saw user when ever possible.

 

[Maiden69]

the cutter somewhat crushes the root and loosens up root bark on the root parts I want to keep.

This is the main reason why I use a saw on thicker roots. Small roots do ok with sharp pruners.

The only time I think the root cutter (I would prefer a knob cutter for this as well) is when you have to carve into the bottom of the tree, like Japanese maple or tridents with flat nebari.

This one was done with the keyhole saw, then cleaned up with my medium No11 Kaneshin knob cutters. Fairly sharp knob cutters used this way will shave thin pieces at a time and won't crush the root the way a concave or root cutter would.





I have even used a new smooth cut blade on my Sawzall to do the first root work on my big ficus. Next time I'm down there I will use large knob cutters to start digging in to flatten it more. The large circle root on the top right was cut with the keyhole saw.

 

[Cajunrider]

Buy a medium to large size Japanese keyhole saw... they cut so clean you rarely need to clean the edges with a knife. I use this one for almost everything from roots to medium trunks.

Amazon.com

And this one for very delicate branches

Amazon.com

That's true for most species. The BC roots are a bit more spongy and I often experience tear-outs even with my Japanese saw. Thankfully the growth is profuse so it usually doesn't matter.

 

[Tieball]

This is the main reason why I use a saw on thicker roots. Small roots do ok with sharp pruners.

The only time I think the root cutter (I would prefer a knob cutter for this as well) is when you have to carve into the bottom of the tree, like Japanese maple or tridents with flat nebari.

This one was done with the keyhole saw, then cleaned up with my medium No11 Kaneshin knob cutters. Fairly sharp knob cutters used this way will shave thin pieces at a time and won't crush the root the way a concave or root cutter would.

View attachment 501052

View attachment 501053

I have even used a new smooth cut blade on my Sawzall to do the first root work on my big ficus. Next time I'm down there I will use large knob cutters to start digging in to flatten it more. The large circle root on the top right was cut with the keyhole saw.

View attachment 501051

Nice work on bottoming-out that trunk. I’ve done that on several American Elms. I get the work mostly done with the saw, sometimes that DeWalt reciprocating saw, and then chip away with a knob cutter to level the bottom to my satisfaction. I find it amazing how fast the open cut bottom heals over.

 

[RJG2]

Oscillating saws also work well for flattening a root ball.

 

[Cajunrider]

Nice work on bottoming-out that trunk. I’ve done that on several American Elms. I get the work mostly done with the saw, sometimes that DeWalt reciprocating saw, and then chip away with a knob cutter to level the bottom to my satisfaction. I find it amazing how fast the open cut bottom heals over.

When I am super lazy I just take the whole tree to my 18" wood band saw with a resaw blade to get a flat bottom. I've done that to several trees. The cut is amazingly smooth

 

[Tieball]

When I am super lazy I just take the whole tree to my 18" wood band saw with a resaw blade to get a flat bottom. I've done that to several trees. The cut is amazingly smooth

That's mighty cool!