Texas Cedar Elm #1

[Apex37]

I picked this up from a workshop for $45. Thought it was a decent deal. Unfortunately, we ran out of time and didn’t get a chance to work on the tree and so I’m working on my first trimming. There’s a couple shoots I’m not sure what to do with.

Here’s the front:


The first branch in question:

I’m having difficulty picking which branch to prune and use as my first branch. I like the branch coming off the main trunk line, but I feel like keeping it might cause inverse taper there. The other branch on the backside is the other option, just not sure if I’m sold on the location.

My plan is to compact the top some and keep the extended lower sections to thicken up. I just don’t wanna biff this one, since it is one of my nicer trees.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[tangledtanuki]

I would consider air layering the top half just above the fork. You'll get some really nice taper and might also encourage back budding once the layer is removed.

 

[Michael P]

You have a slender graceful cedar elm. I would keep it that way. The two lowest small branches might create inverse taper, especially if you keep the larger vertical branch too. Were it my tree, I would take off the two low small branches, then put it in the ground or a large pot. Let the top grow for a season or two to help thicken the trunk, then prune to create the irregular upright form natural to the species.

 

[VAFisher]

Agreed. Remove the 2 smaller branches and try to get the upright branch moving up and out from the trunk. Hard to tell for sure but it looks like it crosses behind the trunk right now?

 

[rockm]

The first branch--remove the thicker upward moving section in favor of the remaining lateral branch at the base. Remove the branch on the back.

 

[Michael P]

"Go not to the elves for advice, for they will say both yes and no."

 

[rockm]

the inverse taper that is developing is due to the stronger upright growing branch. The optical effect (and physical cause) of that will be solved by using the lateral branch, as it emerges on the outside of the bend. It will not worsen the inverse taper, but leaving the upwards growing branch will...

 

[Apex37]

the inverse taper that is developing is due to the stronger upright growing branch. The optical effect (and physical cause) of that will be solved by using the lateral branch, as it emerges on the outside of the bend. It will not worsen the inverse taper, but leaving the upwards growing branch will...

That was my first thought, but that upward growing branch supports almost all the foliage on the backside. I blocked it out and it was pretty bare without it. I’ll try and get some pics later, but it might end up having to happen either way.

 

[Apex37]

Agreed. Remove the 2 smaller branches and try to get the upright branch moving up and out from the trunk. Hard to tell for sure but it looks like it crosses behind the trunk right now?

Yes it does cross over, which is definitely a problem. Unfortunately I wouldn’t be able to get it moved out much. It’s very strong and pretty brittle.

 

[rockm]

That was my first thought, but that upward growing branch supports almost all the foliage on the backside. I blocked it out and it was pretty bare without it. I’ll try and get some pics later, but it might end up having to happen either way.

I've had cedar elm for over 25 years. I have found that in that time, hard pruning of dominant branches typically produces a huge flush of new growth behind the cut. I would wait until next spring to do ANY pruning on this tree. Pruning now will weaken it. Next spring it will be fully charged.

Patience.

 

[Apex37]

Did some work on this guy and got him repotted.
I agreed with the fact of inverse taper starting at the first branch. I decided to remove that thick branch going straight up, rotated the front just slightly, wired the small side branch to the back to fill in the area, and then trimmed the top straight section. Probably could do more pruning, but for now gonna let it fill and reassess everything later.

 

[dbonsaiw]

Really like the bark and started looking in the species. I see that it is hardy to zone 6. I assume I can grow these in NY (despite Texas in the name)?

 

[Dabbler]

great bark on that one!

 

[Apex37]

Really like the bark and started looking in the species. I see that it is hardy to zone 6. I assume I can grow these in NY (despite Texas in the name)?

Great question. Calling @rockm as he’s the only one I know nearish to you that grows them. I’m sure there’s plenty others that I don’t know of though. I feel like Sergio has been working on them as well and I know he’s in NY.

 

[rockm]

Great question. Calling @rockm as he’s the only one I know nearish to you that grows them. I’m sure there’s plenty others that I don’t know of though. I feel like Sergio has been working on them as well and I know he’s in NY.

To answer the question about CE hardiness north of Texas, it depends. CE are extremely vigorous trees, but you have to protect the roots in winter. I mulch mine outside under six inches of mulch for the winter. Done that for 25 years now. In NY, you'd need at least a cold frame or a way to protect the roots from extremes. Good luck finding a decent one outside of Texas though. They're not common and mostly unknown. I've seen some real crap CE on online sales sites for a lot of cash, so beware. Best way to get one is to befriend a Texan. They grow like weeds in East Texas to Dallas and Ft. Worth.

 

[MACH5]

I feel like Sergio has been working on them as well and I know he’s in NY.

No, I am working with American elm but not CE. However I am excited to work with them. I was able to acquire two wonderful ones from a Texas collector that I will be using as demo trees at this year's MABS. I believe I will also be working with one at Bonsai by the Bayou in Houston. Reading @rockm experience with CE is very helpful.

 

[Apex37]

No, I am working with American elm but not CE. However I am excited to work with them. I was able to acquire two wonderful ones from a Texas collector that I will be using as demo trees at this year's MABS. I believe I will also be working with one at Bonsai by the Bayou in Houston. Reading @rockm experience with CE is very helpful.

Ah okay, sorry misspeaking. They are a fun species to work with from my limited time in the hobby!

 

[MACH5]

Ah okay, sorry misspeaking. They are a fun species to work with from my limited time in the hobby!

The really good ones that are collected mostly in Texas have very special character. But all in all elms tend all to be quite resilient as bonsai with vigorous growth and profuse back budding.