Teacup's JM 1

Teacup bonsai

Sapling
Messages
34
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76
Location
Charleston, SC
USDA Zone
8b
I'm periodically going back through old photos of current trees and trying to document progress and lessons learned from (many) mistakes. Here is a JM (unknown cultivar), that I have learned a lot from.


Tree was full and fairly twiggy when I bought from Bonsai West in early spring 2022, but I didn't yet understand how vulnerable spring foliage could be to late frost and wind. I didn't have a cold frame and there was a lot of damage done to the finest branches. Almost all of these leaves got frost/wind damage and didn't green up as they should. I was worried the tree would not survive.

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Per some advice, I defoliated when it was clear the leaves were not creating much energy for the tree.
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The pot was undersized for what the tree needed to recover, but I was scared to do any more work on it that year.

The tree came to the Low country with me later that year, the foliage looked better throughout 2022, but I lost a lot of finer branching.

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It was so pot bound and I had trouble keeping watered properly, and developed some fungal issues that winter.
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I decided the tree needed at least a year or two to recover, made a large, flat box.

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The tree seemed to like the extra space, and put on even growth throughout 2023. I didn't take many photos as I was trying to mostly let the tree recover and not abuse it to death. Lime sulfur was applied that winter as a dormant treatment, there has been no evidence of fungal issues since.

In spring 24 there was more consistent budding and the tree seemed back to health

JM #1 24' sp.HEIC.jpg

Better quality water, less intense heat/light resulted in much more growth this year than last.

JM #1 July 24 .HEIC.jpg

Tree after it was cut back to a rough profile. Many of these branches will be shortened further to promote ramification next season.

And no, the box is not full of yard soil, its mostly akadama with some dirt from moss added, clover and some weeds from a couple years of being undisturbed.


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Next steps:

1. Repot in the spring: take a look at the soil, work the roots more and replenish with fresh substrate. I don't mind the look of the box and its holding up well so I'll likely use it another couple years until I can close a few scars.
2. Take out the small distracting branches along the lower trunk line.
3. Remove the branch near the top where wire was left on too long and the scarring is too obvious to hide

Most likely the apex will have to be reworked, I think the leader is too thick, but there is a branch conveniently placed to replace it. The split to the right will be carved over time to hopefully create a believable "branch" and not inverse taper.
 
The first picture looks like a Butterfly Japanese Maple.
Ya there’s definitely some variegation in the spring, but it didn’t keep during the growing season and the leaves all eventually become even green. Does the color on that varietal stay? I didn’t bother asking when I bought it so I just figured I’d never know.
 
I think it might be the cultivar 'Ukigumo'. The notes from Mr. Maple indicate the variegation is variable from year to year. A rather nice tree you have there @Teacup bonsai .

 
Ya there’s definitely some variegation in the spring, but it didn’t keep during the growing season and the leaves all eventually become even green. Does the color on that varietal stay? I didn’t bother asking when I bought it so I just figured I’d never know.
The variegation stays the same all summer on the butterfly maple but they tend to revert to green leaves over the years if you do not cut off the solid green sports when they first emerge.IMG_2314.jpeg
 
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The variegation stays the same all summer on the butterfly maple but they tend to revert to green leaves over the years if you do not cut off the solid green sports when they first emerge.View attachment 579533
Interesting. The butterfly seems to have a more defined light border than this tree, but I’ll take more photos once it starts pushing this spring!
 
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