Styling Advice for European Beech, Please

[Rose Mary]

I have had this beech for quite awhile. Lost the top of the tree a few years back and it has just been growing.
It doesnt have much ramification as I only found the proper pruning technique for beech last year...
This tree is 11 1/2 inches from the top of soil to the break off.
Almost all of what you see is carried by one main branch. The other side was lost with the apex.
I know the main branch is too heavy and thick to be at the top of the tree,
any direction or possibilty is welcomed as I cannot find a vision for this poor beech
There are only 3 branches that popped out on the other side after the top was lost. (Disappointing) they are all together.
So the reason I have kept this tree going is the euro. I have considered taking more off down to the heavy branch but that really isnt even literati .

h

 

[0soyoung]

Since the shari (an uro arises from a lost/pruned branch, IIRC) is this tree's main feature, I like this view, in your 3 pic

I like the branch in this pic coming down right, then left, drawing attention to the shari. It also tapers nicely as it comes down and goes back, giving the perception of depth. Now all you need to do is to make a scalene triangle of branches/foliage on top to complete the composition.

Cut back the upper branches to a point well within what you envision to be the final canopy 'shell'. You will want heavier branches in front and thinner ones in back (illusion of depth) which means your canopy will be taller/higher in front than in back. A few seasons developing the ramification and I think it will be quite interesting and you will be quite proud.

 

[Tieball]

You probably know this already from your research...but...always leave at least one good bud on a branch when pruning.

The branching needs to be brought in tighter to the main branching. I think you have the makings of something interesting though...perhaps a target style anyway. I attached a couple of Bonsai tree photos...swiped from somewhere....good examples of what could or can happen with a thicker top pulling off to one side. Just a thought...a style idea generator before you start pruning.

 

[sorce]

Funny I adore all your "Follies"!

Beech, of any type, for me, almost always fall short of being really good.

Great flare, shitty spread.
Great trunk, shitty branching...
Great branching, reverse taper...

Actually, the first decent prebonsai Yamadori beech I saw was on FB last night and hit the $250 reserve mark....nope!
Oh. And....nope nope! I checked....its a Korean Hornbeam!

So there you have it....
You still own the only decent prebonsai Beech in the United States!

Show me a street in between a Tavern and a place, and I'll show you a tree that looks just like that!

A forest overpopulated with deer....
See a tree like that.

Something about the roots working well with the trunk Shari, and everything above it still well within workable....

Seems like maybe...
You only found the proper pruning technique for beech last year!?

Well get on with it then!

Lol!

This thing is fabulous!

Sorce

 

[Rose Mary]

Since the shari (an uro arises from a lost/pruned branch, IIRC) is this tree's main feature, I like this view, in your 3 pic

I like the branch in this pic coming down right, then left, drawing attention to the shari. It also tapers nicely as it comes down and goes back, giving the perception of depth. Now all you need to do is to make a scalene triangle of branches/foliage on top to complete the composition.

Cut back the upper branches to a point well within what you envision to be the final canopy 'shell'. You will want heavier branches in front and thinner ones in back (illusion of depth) which means your canopy will be taller/higher in front than in back. A few seasons developing the ramification and I think it will be quite interesting and you will be quite proud.

Thank you so much for your encouragement on finding a way toward a future for this tree. I will be doing a bit of pruning and wiring this tree in the near. It is on my porch now, where I have to walk by and see it every time I go outside. It has been so one sided since the top and other side were lost. I have been hoping for new buds to pop lower on the tree leading toward more balance and that hasnt happened. The large branch that carries most of the branching is vigorous, also quite thick where it comes from the trunk.

 

[Rose Mary]

You probably know this already from your research...but...always leave at least one good bud on a branch when pruning.

The branching needs to be brought in tighter to the main branching. I think you have the makings of something interesting though...perhaps a target style anyway. I attached a couple of Bonsai tree photos...swiped from somewhere....good examples of what could or can happen with a thicker top pulling off to one side. Just a thought...a style idea generator before you start pruning.

Tieball, thank you for sharing these examples with me. I am to the point with this tree that something needs to be decided, so the tree can move forward in its development, if it has a future.
I have been letting the branch run long and had that long branch end soft wired to the pot to bring and hold it down. it stays there by itself now. Your photo examples bring more possibilities.

 

[Rose Mary]

Funny I adore all your "Follies"!

Beech, of any type, for me, almost always fall short of being really good.

Great flare, shitty spread.
Great trunk, shitty branching...
Great branching, reverse taper...

Actually, the first decent prebonsai Yamadori beech I saw was on FB last night and hit the $250 reserve mark....nope!
Oh. And....nope nope! I checked....its a Korean Hornbeam!

Sorce

Sorce, you are so encouraging. lol!
You wax philosophical often, do you write books?
I appreciate your input and encouragement to move forward on my trees.

thank you

 

[BobbyLane]

it all looks a little untidy atm but i think if you could get a little order into the branch structure it will seem less confusing. this oak tree might provide a little inspiration in terms of what i can see on your tree.
Ye Old Oak Tree by john's taken it, on Flickr

or
The lonely Oak by Ron Hill, on Flickr


these are just guides based on what i see on your trunk, yours is quite a tall broom and that lowest branch should be kept and trained low to fill in the negative space. i think its to tall to be a broom of this kind, you might like to look at these anyway
DSCF3220 by Ian Young, on Flickr


DSCF8015 by Ian Young, on Flickr

unless you want to try a higher canopy to match the trunk...these are online images

WP

 

[Aiki_Joker]

Thank you so much for your encouragement on finding a way toward a future for this tree. I will be doing a bit of pruning and wiring this tree in the near. It is on my porch now, where I have to walk by and see it every time I go outside. It has been so one sided since the top and other side were lost. I have been hoping for new buds to pop lower on the tree leading toward more balance and that hasnt happened. The large branch that carries most of the branching is vigorous, also quite thick where it comes from the trunk.

Thread grafting works quite well with beech. Maybe let a few branches grow out and thread them to get some lower down

 

[Paulpash]

Thread grafting works quite well with beech. Maybe let a few branches grow out and thread them to get some lower down

Have you done a post of a successful beech thread graft? I'm interested because I've never seen one done & was wondering if you employed any specific techniques? This would come in handy for some of my project trees.

 

[Aiki_Joker]

Never done it but looking at the branch flexibility and the potential for beech to fuse they are a good candidate. The EU beech here have snaking branches though and there is an angle from each bud. This would make it more difficult. They fuse easily when growing strongly though. This sapling fused to this root in just two seasons in the ground here and I see fused branches frequently here.

The sealing step and making sure the cambium meets the bark without drying out is important. Then promoting growth of course by not stressing the tree at all for a season after this. Obviously the tighter the fit the faster the healing. Toothpick to secure and sealer all around the hole. Hole can be tapered to allow easier insertion too. If you leave a few buds on both sides this will mitigate the risk of the branch dieing due to only having a damaged bud to grow from. I will definitely be attempting some of this in the future (probably with bougainvillea and beech).

I reckon with beech it is best take a higher branch because of the apical dominance.

There are a lot of videos online, here is a good one on hornbeam which has a very similar lineage to beech though is a bit more tenacious when it comes to healing, back budding and water logging I believe.

 

[Aiki_Joker]

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Thread grafting works quite well with beech. Maybe let a few branches grow out and thread them to get some lower down

I’d be interested to see what leads you to this statement as well. The large buds of Beech would require a large hole, and Beech close wounds very slowly. This isn’t a promising combination for this technique.

Edit, from your follow up post: Stating it works quite well, then following up with you’ve never done it. Having worked with Beech for a dozen years, I can state they are unforgiving, so failed attempts of techniques like those you’re suggesting will leave damage on a tree for many years to come. With Beech, it’s all about good pruning and balance.

 

[M. Frary]

With Beech, it’s all about good pruning and balance

That's why I don't have any.
I suck at both and I don't think I have the patience for beech trees.

 

[Aiki_Joker]

I’d be interested to see what leads you to this statement as well. The large buds of Beech would require a large hole, and Beech close wounds very slowly. This isn’t a promising combination for this technique.

Edit, from your follow up post: Stating it works quite well, then following up with you’ve never done it. Having worked with Beech for a dozen years, I can state they are unforgiving, so failed attempts of techniques like those you’re suggesting will leave damage on a tree for many years to come. With Beech, it’s all about good pruning and balance.

Inference from the natural fusing I see here and the sapling pictured watched over 2 years or so. Oaks (same family) don't seem to have as prevalent fusing here (English oak).

I guess beeches are better ground grown outside. The below illustrates the healing and growth potential when transferred to the ground for a year or two then back to a pot. This irish club member says that they tend to lose vigor in pots so he puts them in the ground to invigorate them.

Definitely scar well and for a long time. Carved initials here are long lived. Will make sure I post the thread grafts. Just stumped my first beech. If it survives would be a candidate. Great long term project and will have a place in my garden for sure.

 

[Aiki_Joker]

Quick thread graft on EU beech here (hopefully half finished). Lots of info here on beeches and British natives. The Irish have it sussed. Not sure if this one took, you will have to search the blog a bit. Definitely done regularly. Nice thin bendy new growth. Hole of course has to be big enough for the bud:

https://bonsaieejit.com/2015/04/16/

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

That's why I don't have any.
I suck at both and I don't think I have the patience for beech trees.

Yeah, I worked on this one for a long time, and managed to turn a $600 Beech in 2004 into an $850 Beech in 2015. What’s that, $.50/week? That’s a really low return on the time invested, and I actually don’t suck at both (you don’t either). The guy who bought it from me killed it within a year. They’re simply unforgiving if you make the slightest error.

 

[Aiki_Joker]

I’d be interested to see what leads you to this statement as well. The large buds of Beech would require a large hole, and Beech close wounds very slowly. This isn’t a promising combination for this technique.

Edit, from your follow up post: Stating it works quite well, then following up with you’ve never done it. Having worked with Beech for a dozen years, I can state they are unforgiving, so failed attempts of techniques like those you’re suggesting will leave damage on a tree for many years to come. With Beech, it’s all about good pruning and balance.

Great info and thanks for sharing. I'm up for some unforgiving stuff

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Quick thread graft on EU beech here (hopefully half finished). Lots of info here on beeches and British natives. The Irish have it sussed. Not sure if this one took, you will have to search the blog a bit. Definitely done regularly. Nice thin bendy new growth. Hole of course has to be big enough for the bud:

https://bonsaieejit.com/2015/04/16/

Yes, that’s Ian’s blog. Go do it yourself and take lots of photos, and start a thread to show how it works; it will be brilliant?. I did, and everything I tried from the magazine articles failed, short of figuring out how and when to prune correctly.

 

[Aiki_Joker]

Yes, that’s Ian’s blog. Go do it yourself and take lots of photos, and start a thread to show how it works. I did, and everything I tried from the magazine articles failed, short of figuring out how and when to prune correctly.

Nightmare, worth a try. Was the tree in the ground?