Storm Damaged Blueberry

[WallyJ]

Back in April, I purchased a pair of blueberry bushes (trees). One because my wife wanted a blueberry bush and the other because I wanted to "bonsai" a blueberry. All has went well and we got a massive crop of blueberries from both of these bushes. My plan was to just leave mine alone until this fall and then prune it back and begin it's bonsai journey. But that was interrupted today because of a storm. In fact, the storm is continuing as I post this...

I woke up this morning to a fairly heavy storm with some strong winds and although my wife's blueberry bush is fine, the one I wanted to bonsai was unfortunately blown off the deck and broke numerous branches. So here are my questions (along with some images of the damage).

1. The tree itself...Should I just leave it as is and prune only the broken branches and limbs (besides the big ones already taken off), or can I go ahead and prune it way back early before the fall dormancy?
2. The broken branches... The images of the broken branches that are laid out...is it possible that these can be planted as cuttings and root? The largest broken branch is slightly less than 1/4", but most are like a 2-3mm wire size.
3. IF (big if) these can be planted as cuttings, should the planted in acid soil? Can I still use rooting hormone? Best soil type (peat moss, potting soil, perlite, coco coir)?

Thanks for any help and/or suggestions.

Wally J

 

[WallyJ]

Oh... And I am soaking these cuttings in rain water right now....so they are not just laying out.

 

[doc spring _work]

For cuttings I recommend hormex no.3 (3 is strength)

You'll want to reduce the leaves so water intake is reduced.

You want a sandy soil, in my ribs with cuttings I started with peat moss, I ended up adding in tons of perlite to increase drainage (35% peat 65% perlite)

Cut a good section off from the break before dipping it into the hormone (this assures your not applying hormone to a piece that's too far gone) tap the powder off, stick it in soil.

The more humidity the better for cuttings, also try to avoid direct sunlight. I have to artificially increase humidity so I struggle with mold, regularly Opening my big Tupperware containers to air them out and remove mold as needed (the mold typically only coats the stuff that's already in decline I've noticed)

I've had the best success with pencil thickness sections of stem with no leaves but I also struggle with one of the worst climates for plants lol.

 

[gooeytek]

Prune the cuttings so you have a couple of leaves at the tips, you can use rooting hormone and plant them in pots with perlite and peat moss.
Keep the substrate moist, covered in white plastic bags under indirect sunlight. Mist them from time to time if you feel they are getting dry.

 

[99 Mile Creek]

Great advice on cuttings.

As far as pruning, Larry Morton states: "If our main objective is encouraging the most robust growth for development, we prune deciduous bonsai in winter... During winter, the tree has an abundance of stored photosynthates...The tree is still working on existing growth regulators. Winter pruning can make it ready for the first burst in spring with a high sap flow and a flush of aggressive branch growth." -- 501 Principles of Good Bonsai Horticulture

I highly recommend the book. I've always felt waiting for the buds to swell is wasting potential energy that could have been diverted by pruning in the dormancy period.

It's certainly not the only way. I'd wager, though, most would recommend pruning in late fall or in the spring as soon as the buds begin to swell...because it still works.

Letting it continue to grow without any more stress for the remainder of the growing season might be best.

Good luck!

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

The Blueberry expert on site is @Leo in N E Illinois who farmed them for a number of years. He will be able to tell you what’s possible.

Cheers
DSD sends