Split Trunk Shimpaku

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I called it split trunk, maybe it is not what you call a split trunk. I got this at Brussels in 2012 in a nursery pot. Cut the top, cut the roots back, remove some of the soil but left most close to trunk, put in a bonsai pot to figure what I want to do. It did well in the pot, filled up with roots to the top. Last year 2013 it needed repotting, I ran out of time and did not get it swapped. It did well for the second summer on the stand next to the wall, full sun untill about 1pm. After that it is shaded by the house, I have found this works well for my shimpaku (killed a couple in the process of finding the best place). You can see the black dirt that needs to be removed and the large rocks are there to deflect the rain as it comes off the roof. I have really enjoyed the deep green color year around but know it needs light to the inside. I know the foliage inside will die if I do not get it open up to allow some light in, will it cause more damage? I still do not know how I want to do this tree, I do not want to end up with some pom poms at the end a the branches. I have a couple of ideas, but am open to any suggestions. I took more pictures but it is hard to tell much from them. I did remove all the soil and wash the roots this time. Put some wire on a couple of limbs to pull them down to let light in. Few more pictures in the next reply.
 

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The first picture is out of pot, I removed all the soil, washed and cut some roots. It was still very thick with roots, which I left most close to trunk.
The dead wood in the top center was there when I purchased it. I do not care much for the lime sulfur, it appears too white for me, so I have not treated the wood and you can see it is starting to rot. I will treat with the lime sulfur to stop it from doing damage to the trunk.
So it is back in the pot to grow another year and figure out how I want to do this. Is there anything that I need or should do for now or future?

Thanks for your thoughts and Help.
 

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I noticed you removed some small branches near the trunk. Dont remove small branches close to the trunk...rather remove the outer foliage for light. You might need to cut back to them.
I noticed some rot near the base of the trunk. Address it before it becomes too large.
 
It has a bit of a deciduous shape to it, with a main trunk, and opening out into a canopy.

Typically shimpakus accentuate a trunk line, which is further emphasized with strips of deadwood Sharis, and jinned branches.

What do you see and what direction do you want to take your tree?

I can tell you that if you took it to a workshop and stated you were happy with the current size, most would work with you to identify that trunk line, show you some areas to carve Shari into the trunk, and identify a few unnecessary branches to convert into Jin. That will open up the tree and you spend this year pumping it back up so you can do some wiring next spring.

You've seen this thread, but it's a good progression of developing some interest and character in a shimp from a similar size over 4 years.
 
Neli, I see the black roots in the picture close to the trunk, thanks for the advice. I will remove on next potting, should I re-pot next year just to remove dead roots even if the pot has not filled with roots like it had last year?

Brian, I just reviewed and read the entire thread, very interesting reading this time as it offers options for my project. I was not on board with the ovals you were doing, did not agree with the dead look... untill the last picture and it all came into place, really nice.
As for my vision of my tree, still thinking, do not think I have the experince for the carving or access to workshop for assistance. If I was at a workshop, I would say that I am content with the current size of the tree. So I guess that is one thing I do know, so the trunk line is next, I will focus on that.

"and identify a few unnecessary branches to convert into Jin. That will open up the tree and you spend this year pumping it back up so you can do some wiring next spring."

So if I do identify a few unnecessary branches to convert into jin (or remove).. would that be too hard on the tree right now after the root pruning and potting? If it is OK how long do I have?
I noticed your repot it appeared a fair amount of soil left in the roots, did I mess up washing out all the soil on mine?

Thanks to both of you!
 
Neli, I see the black roots in the picture close to the trunk, thanks for the advice. I will remove on next potting, should I re-pot next year just to remove dead roots even if the pot has not filled with roots like it had last year?

Brian, I just reviewed and read the entire thread, very interesting reading this time as it offers options for my project. I was not on board with the ovals you were doing, did not agree with the dead look... untill the last picture and it all came into place, really nice.
As for my vision of my tree, still thinking, do not think I have the experince for the carving or access to workshop for assistance. If I was at a workshop, I would say that I am content with the current size of the tree. So I guess that is one thing I do know, so the trunk line is next, I will focus on that.

"and identify a few unnecessary branches to convert into Jin. That will open up the tree and you spend this year pumping it back up so you can do some wiring next spring."

So if I do identify a few unnecessary branches to convert into jin (or remove).. would that be too hard on the tree right now after the root pruning and potting? If it is OK how long do I have?
I noticed your repot it appeared a fair amount of soil left in the roots, did I mess up washing out all the soil on mine?

Thanks to both of you!
If you have repotted it this year I would not bother the tree next year. Let it recover.
Just gently scrap at the base of the trunk, and see if there is any soft rotting wood. Make sure dont damage the cambium of the live parts. If you find soft rotting wood scrap out all the rotten wood until hard wood, and apply preserver. Lime sulfur is good to disinfect and an application of wood hardener can help too.
 
Thank you Neli, I will take a look at it this weekend.
 
Focus on the Trunk

I looked close at the trunk today, in one of the pictures on my first post, I showed where the top had been cut at time of purchase and mentioned it appeared to be dead. If you follow down the tree you see dead wood in the pictures I have in this post. So this would be where I would "carve shari" in the turnk? Should I cut the dead wood out of there now or wait a year? When I say cut, I am thinking of just cutting what is dead, nothing more for now?

??
Thanks
 

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This is the area I am concerned with.
Bette clean it now since it can collect moisture and continue to rot the trunk.
 

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I looked close at the trunk today, in one of the pictures on my first post, I showed where the top had been cut at time of purchase and mentioned it appeared to be dead. If you follow down the tree you see dead wood in the pictures I have in this post. So this would be where I would "carve shari" in the turnk? Should I cut the dead wood out of there now or wait a year? When I say cut, I am thinking of just cutting what is dead, nothing more for now?

??
Thanks
If it's already dead, just scrub the flaky bark away and expose the dead wood. No need to cut it away unless it doesn't work in the design. Likely, the dead wood looks more natural than is easily replicated, so I'd let it be.

You could always widen that Shari with an exacto knife by some removing bark/live tissue down to hard wood on one or both sides of the natural Shari, if it makes sense to the design. In essence, this will produce the same effect as "carving ovals" in the trunk.
 
You could definently make something nice from this tree, keep us posted.
 
This is an example how shimpaku can rot if not treated on time. There was nothing left from the heart wood of this tree.
Just clean all dead soft material/bark starting from the top as Brian told you.
 

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Thanks to all for the infomation, I will check it this weekend.
 
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