Southern California Soil Composition

[Poink88]

Grim,

Things just work. As much as we want to understand/explain everything, we do not have enough knowledge yet to do so. Hopefully in time but do not wait, there is no money in that so it will be in the back burner.

FYI, my brother used to grow and propagate (even clone in flasks) orchids back in the Philippines and the best growing medium for them is charcoal bar none. Partly the reason too why I advised you to do the diluted but more often fertilizing program than several times strong...because diluted but frequent is what we do for orchids which basically grows on air.

 

[Dav4]

Where did this info come from?
I have seen a difference especially in shimpakus when charcoal was added to the soil. I once got 30 Kishu's that all had terrible roots. About 20 got repotted with charcoal in them the rest didn't because I ran out- all 20 thrived and about 7 of the others didn't make it 3 months after transplanting.

http://www.gardeningoncloud9.com/200901/myths-horticultural-charcoal-gardening/

Fwiw, the only difference I see between horticultural charcoal and activated charcoal is the structure...activated charcoal is more porous...that's it. Charcoal is organic, unlike pumice (Dry Stall), but doesn't break down nearly as quickly as bark. I use it for all the reasons Al mentioned.

 

[bonsaibp]

Not saying there aren't other things that will achieve the same result.
Just wondering about your sources because it seems contradictory-
First there is this-
it needs to be activated or super-heated so to create lots of air pocket to absorb odors.
Then this-
the charcoal must first be burned. Yet, then the charcoal will lose its porosity value.
One line says it needs to be super heated to absorb ordors the other says heating make it lose its porosity-
so I need to wonder about the source.

 

[GrimLore]

You do understand what organic means? You do understand that the Giant sequoia cannot reproduce except after a fire. It needs the fire to release the seeds and it needs the charcoal and ash to germinate the seed. No more fires....no more big trees. For years the forestry dept here in California did and spent huge sums of money to keep fire out of the National Parks. Now they allow such burns there periodically to ensure the forest survival. Sometimes even man can screw things up.

I do understand what organic means, lol And if you can try to understand that by burning they create natural potash of high mineral content which is needed for proper Sequoia germination and growth. It is the most cost effective way to keep the habitat proper and if done correct there is also charcoal which helps with good drainage and some ability to hold on to nutrients needed.

Grimmy

 

[bonsaibp]

http://www.gardeningoncloud9.com/200901/myths-horticultural-charcoal-gardening/

Fwiw, the only difference I see between horticultural charcoal and activated charcoal is the structure...activated charcoal is more porous...that's it. Charcoal is organic, unlike pumice (Dry Stall), but doesn't break down nearly as quickly as bark. I use it for all the reasons Al mentioned.

Don't think this person is from Cornell seems to just be a gardener with a blog.
As this seems to just be an opinion without any mention of personal experience or other qualifications to form this opinion I'll continue to use it and believe that there are good reasons for doing so.

 

[GrimLore]

Not saying there aren't other things that will achieve the same result.
Just wondering about your sources because it seems contradictory-
First there is this-
it needs to be activated or super-heated so to create lots of air pocket to absorb odors.
Then this-
the charcoal must first be burned. Yet, then the charcoal will lose its porosity value.
One line says it needs to be super heated to absorb ordors the other says heating make it lose its porosity-
so I need to wonder about the source.

They are explaining the different types of charcoal and the different applications they are indeed used for. For the purpose of discussion we are not talking about activated charcoal. Horticultural Charcoal is burnt wood that is porous of "organic source" but it is no longer of organic value except it "can" hold organics like lava, pumice, etc. For it to be of any mineral or otherwise value it has to be made into potash

Actually a local Arborist who has been taking care of my Orchard and many other trees found that reference and passed it along to me for reference. He is well known here and been in the business 30 years. It actually summed up a lot of what was discussed so I used it.
Grimmy

 

[iant]

So who has space this winter/spring to do another experiment with charcoal versus placebo? I'm all tapped out on plant space myself!
Ian

 

[GrimLore]

So who has space this winter/spring to do another experiment with charcoal versus placebo? I'm all tapped out on plant space myself!
Ian

Actually I will have 10 trees in the Spring from Arbor Day to play with at the new place. I will use those to compare my Dry Stall and Traction Grit to Horticultural Coal and Traction Grit. It won't be a huge planting but well controlled. I suspect the results will be similar. I might have more room then I think and if that is the case I will do 10 each of 3 types of tree.

Grimmy

Note: after giving this more thought I think after I know what I can do and what quantity it might be cool to have input from the Community here to prepare the various substrates prior to going off on my own