Slow release fertiliser. Japanese Naruko 5.5.5

[Bonsai_paul]

When do I start to use it ? Mine is granular type. My elm is budding still but no leaves just yet. My other elm I got last week already has leaves so it was a greenhouse tree but now outside.

Thanks

 

[sorce]

Unless there are electronics in your fertilizer there is NO actual working way the time of your fertilizer can be controlled, therefore, I wouldn't use it.

We would have to know the chemical composition of the product, how many times you will water, how humid it will be, how many animals will rummage thru your soil and how much....etc....before that question can be answered accurately.

Go Fish!

Sorce

 

[Bonsai_paul]

Unless there are electronics in your fertilizer there is NO actual working way the time of your fertilizer can be controlled, therefore, I wouldn't use it.

We would have to know the chemical composition of the product, how many times you will water, how humid it will be, how many animals will rummage thru your soil and how much....etc....before that question can be answered accurately.

Go Fish!

Sorce

Thanks I'll go fishing then

 

[sorce]

Thanks I'll go fishing then

It should offer you more control.
See....
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/you-got-balls.32768/

Sorce

 

[Bonsai_paul]

It should offer you more control.
See....
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/you-got-balls.32768/

Sorce

That post lost me totally

 

[LanceMac10]

https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/so-many-fertilizer-questions-so-little-time.23063/post-356525

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

That post lost me totally

There's a difference between granules (as in: things shaped like little pellets) and osmocote balls (capsulated non-organic nutrients). Semantics..
I use cow dung pellets, they work great and I start them whenever I expect growth to occur 3 weeks in the future. I water them, they start breaking down within a few days, the nutrients become available to the soil in a matter of weeks.

Those capsulated balls suck balls because they release whenever they feel like releasing, not when the plant needs or wants it. You could use them today, and the nutrients can release anywhere between tomorrow morning and the year 2024.
That's not the point though, because those naruko pellets look like the cow dung I use. They're not coated or whatever, so they'll behave like any other organic nutrient. You should use them as such.

 

[Bonsai_paul]

There's a difference between granules (as in: things shaped like little pellets) and osmocote balls (capsulated non-organic nutrients). Semantics..
I use cow dung pellets, they work great and I start them whenever I expect growth to occur 3 weeks in the future. I water them, they start breaking down within a few days, the nutrients become available to the soil in a matter of weeks.

Those capsulated balls suck balls because they release whenever they feel like releasing, not when the plant needs or wants it. You could use them today, and the nutrients can release anywhere between tomorrow morning and the year 2024.
That's not the point though, because those naruko pellets look like the cow dung I use. They're not coated or whatever, so they'll behave like any other organic nutrient. You should use them as such.

Mine looks like akadama;-)

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I know I wrote some long winded post on coated slow release fertilizers at one time or another. Basically I never use them for bonsai in bonsai pots. I never use them on trees which we control by timed application of fertilizer, like Japanese black pine and Japanese white pine.

I do use the stuff will a lot of my sticks in pots, and trees in large nursery containers, trees in early phases of development.

I would use it in bags or cups, along with your organic fertilizers in bags. The reason is, you can remove it when it is time to stop adding fertilizer. Putting it in a bag with your organics makes sense.

I would not mix it loose in the potting media for any mature bonsai.

 

[Bonsai_paul]

I know I wrote some long winded post on coated slow release fertilizers at one time or another. Basically I never use them for bonsai in bonsai pots. I never use them on trees which we control by timed application of fertilizer, like Japanese black pine and Japanese white pine.

I do use the stuff will a lot of my sticks in pots, and trees in large nursery containers, trees in early phases of development.

I would use it in bags or cups, along with your organic fertilizers in bags. The reason is, you can remove it when it is time to stop adding fertilizer. Putting it in a bag with your organics makes sense.

I would not mix it loose in the potting media for any mature bonsai.

Any suggestions on one in the UK?

 

[KP45]

I bought some of the same stuff too although I usually use liquid feed.

Luckily I realised my mistake early enough (as it's outdoor feed and my bonsai is indoor) but there are a few little pellets I missed.

Saw this thread and thought it would be worth noting: Under the moss the pellets actually seem to turn mouldy. I'm not sure if this is harmful to the trees in any way or just how it breaks down but it causes a yellowed dead patch in the moss. If the trees are to be kept in a greenhouse it might be worth watching out for as I'm assuming the warmth and lack of air movement played a part.

 

[Shibui]

Luckily I realised my mistake early enough (as it's outdoor feed and my bonsai is indoor) but there are a few little pellets I missed.

Is there a difference between indoor fertiliser and outdoor fertiliser? Surely trees are trees and need the same nutrients whether they are inside or outside?
White mould is normal with organic fertiliser. Most organic fert have some readily available nutrients but much is not available to plant roots. Fungi are primary decomposers that convert organics into nutrients that are more available to plant roots so it is natural to see mycelium around organic fert.
I have also noticed brown moss close to the chicken manure pellets that I occasionally use. Not sure if it is acidity or extra N that makes moss brown but it does seem to be temporary and quickly grows back.

Those capsulated balls suck balls because they release whenever they feel like releasing, not when the plant needs or wants it. You could use them today, and the nutrients can release anywhere between tomorrow morning and the year 2024.

This may have been the case with the earliest forms, but technology has come a long way. Now up to 4G improvements in coatings. You can now get programmed release formulations - slow start building up to higher release rates when the plants should be reaching max growth and other combinations. Even with the earlier coatings fert release was slow in cold weather when plants don't need nutrients and higher in warm weather when they need more. I use controlled release fert balls in the mix for all bonsai and developing plants. Additional fert is then good but if I forget or can't the trees still have background slow release to keep them growing well. Has worked really well for me for more than 20 years.

 

[KP45]

Is there a difference between indoor fertiliser and outdoor fertiliser? Surely trees are trees and need the same nutrients whether they are inside or outside?
White mould is normal with organic fertiliser. Most organic fert have some readily available nutrients but much is not available to plant roots. Fungi are primary decomposers that convert organics into nutrients that are more available to plant roots so it is natural to see mycelium around organic fert.
I have also noticed brown moss close to the chicken manure pellets that I occasionally use. Not sure if it is acidity or extra N that makes moss brown but it does seem to be temporary and quickly grows back.

Ah, in that case I've learnt something new, I did think there was a chance of it just being a part of the normal breakdown process but wasn't sure. It was marketed as outdoor fertiliser in the description and a lot of the products that were similar looking had it written in the title (on eBay). Perhaps it's just because it has a slight smell?

Glad you mentioned about the white mould being normal though, I'll hang onto it and use it for future projects