Silly project perhaps.

Gbhunter77

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These are 3 images of a shimpaku juniper that im working on. In this case I want the tree to tell a story, I understand that it does not really conform to any style and it maybe stupid on my part to do this. Nobody said I was a bright bulb on the tree. Anyway how does one go about pinching the juniper? Why is it done? Last but certainly not least what is pinched and what is left alone? Also if you want to add comments please do.
 

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It does look intersting to work on. About punching... It is a strange topic, mainly because terminology of pinching is not set in stone. For me picnhing is when you use your fingers and pruning when you use scissors. So you should not pinch junipers. It shoud be cut, but not like a hadge, but just those shoots that are growing out of style. Others you leave it be. Also you prune some of the inner branches to make room for light and air.
This is probably helpful:
http://crataegus.com/2012/08/26/how-to-pinch-junipers/

And it's not a silly project, you will learn something from it. If this is silly than all I have is silly.
Good luck!
 
Oh crap! I already pinched quite a bit of the tree! I will stop right away and feed the crap out of it all growing season, not adding anymore insults this year.
 
Read through this thread. It shows developing a shimpaku with somewhat awkward growth. Pay special attention to:

1. How we chased back growth to the interior of the tree.
2. Utilized the heavy branches for jins
3. Utilized new interior growth to develop into new branches.
4. Continued to move/compact branches into positions with guy wires and twisting branches.
5. When the work was done, and over how many years.

A good bonsai can be made of this material, but like all good bonsai, it will take time.
 
My vision for this tree does not really fit any style. This brings me to another rather loaded question. When making bonsai should one follow the styles and methods prescribed or should the bonsai creator make what they envision? This is where I am at with this. This tree is being bent opposite to its growth, i wish to convay a tree that due to some event is now being bent and twisted by the howling wind. Many branches will die but the tree will change due to this new element it is exposed to. Its just a story I created specifically for this tree I can see it in my mind, it sound stupid but I can hear the wind howling and feel it on my face. I just hope that I can make what I see.
 
My vision for this tree does not really fit any style. This brings me to another rather loaded question. When making bonsai should one follow the styles and methods prescribed or should the bonsai creator make what they envision? This is where I am at with this. This tree is being bent opposite to its growth, i wish to convay a tree that due to some event is now being bent and twisted by the howling wind. Many branches will die but the tree will change due to this new element it is exposed to. Its just a story I created specifically for this tree I can see it in my mind, it sound stupid but I can hear the wind howling and feel it on my face. I just hope that I can make what I see.

Actually, "windswept" is a standard bonsai style. If you Google "windswept bonsai," then click on "Pictures" you will see many examples.

And, while I can see what leads you toward that style for this very nice plant . . .

1. There probably could be better uses for it as a bonsai, and
2. Windswept is probably one of the two most difficult styles for even experts to pull off successfully. (The other is Literati.)

I intend no offense to you at all when I say that it would be a shame to butcher this very nice bonsai candidate plant if you have no idea what to do to keep it healthy while you cut it down into a bonsai.

I don't know where you are in Michigan but there are several excellent bonsai clubs in the state. I've put a list below. You can best do this plant justice by joining a club then taking it to a meeting and asking for help.

MICHIGAN - Ann Arbor
Ann Arbor Bonsai Society. Meets at Matthaei Botanical Garden, 1800 N. Dixboro Rd., 4th Wednesday of each month at 7:00 PM,January-October meetings. Contact: Paul Kulesa by phone: 313-930-1305 or e-mail: AABonsaiSociety@gmail.com The Ann Arbor Bonsai Society was founded in 1970. The purpose shall be to promote knowledge, appreciation, and practice of the art of bonsai to its members and to the general public through meetings, lectures, workshops, exhibitions, publications or other means. The Society holds regular meetings, workshops, an annual show and several informal gatherings for members and their guests. Club Newsletter. http://www.annarborbonsaisociety.org/

MICHIGAN - Bay City
The San Toshi Bonsai Club meets the third Thursday of each month at Bay Landscaping, 1630 N Southeast Boutell, Essexville, MI. Contact: Anne Kemper at 517-835-7730 agkemper@hotmail.com

MICHIGAN - Grand Rapids
Frederik Meijer Gardens and Sculpture Park, 1000 East Beltline Ave NE. Meetings held on 3rd Tuesdays or Saturdays check our website for meetings (no meetings in Dec or Jan) Contact: Tim Cox by E-mail: timcox102@hotmail.com Please checkour website for newsletters and schedules. http://westmichiganbonsaiclub.com/

MICHIGAN - Kalamazoo
Bonsai Society of Kalamazoo meets the 2nd Sunday of each month at 2 PM, at the Girl Scout Headquarters, located at the corner of Maple and Crosstown in Kalamazoo. Contact: Greg Filter, Phone:(269) 979-7974 or E-mail: glf@proinnovation.com Founded in 1980. Visitors are always welcome. The Bonsai Society-Kalamazoo (BS-K) is a nonprofit, educational organization whose aim is to promote knowledge, appreciation, enjoyment, and interest in the ancient Oriental arts of Japanese bonsai and Chinese penjing.

MICHIGAN - Traverse City
Sakura Bonsai Society of Northern Michigan -Contact: Eric Hallman (231) 932-7509 or by E-mail:e-dhallman@juno.com . Annual dues $20. Monthly newsletters, collection trips, plant auctions & trades. Meetings are April thru October. website

MICHIGAN - Tri-Cities
The San Toshi Bonsai Club meets the third Thursday of each month at Bay Landscaping, 1630 N Southeast Boutell, Essexville, MI. Contact: Anne Kemper at 517-835-7730 agkemper@hotmail.com

MICHIGAN - Troy
Four Seasons Bonsai Club meets the last Sunday of the month at 2 pm. at Telly's Greenhouse & Nursery, 3301 John R. Road, Troy, Michigan. Contact: Todd Renshaw, Phone: 248-585-9916, E-mail: webmaster@mababonsai.org Please check our website for newsletters, schedules & galleries.
 
Oh, I have no issues with keeping the plant alive. However I am upset about the entire "pinching" thing. I have included a picture below.
This is a page from a book I bought from a bonsai dealer.
 

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Actually, "windswept" is a standard bonsai style. If you Google "windswept bonsai," then click on "Pictures" you will see many examples.

And, while I can see what leads you toward that style for this very nice plant . . .

1. There probably could be better uses for it as a bonsai, and
2. Windswept is probably one of the two most difficult styles for even experts to pull off successfully. (The other is Literati.)

I intend no offense to you at all when I say that it would be a shame to butcher this very nice bonsai candidate plant if you have no idea what to do to keep it healthy while you cut it down into a bonsai.

I don't know where you are in Michigan but there are several excellent bonsai clubs in the state. I've put a list below. You can best do this plant justice by joining a club then taking it to a meeting and asking for help.

MICHIGAN - Ann Arbor
Ann Arbor Bonsai Society. Meets at Matthaei Botanical Garden, 1800 N. Dixboro Rd., 4th Wednesday of each month at 7:00 PM,January-October meetings. Contact: Paul Kulesa by phone: 313-930-1305 or e-mail: AABonsaiSociety@gmail.com The Ann Arbor Bonsai Society was founded in 1970. The purpose shall be to promote knowledge, appreciation, and practice of the art of bonsai to its members and to the general public through meetings, lectures, workshops, exhibitions, publications or other means. The Society holds regular meetings, workshops, an annual show and several informal gatherings for members and their guests. Club Newsletter. http://www.annarborbonsaisociety.org/

MICHIGAN - Bay City
The San Toshi Bonsai Club meets the third Thursday of each month at Bay Landscaping, 1630 N Southeast Boutell, Essexville, MI. Contact: Anne Kemper at 517-835-7730 agkemper@hotmail.com

MICHIGAN - Grand Rapids
Frederik Meijer Gardens and Sculpture Park, 1000 East Beltline Ave NE. Meetings held on 3rd Tuesdays or Saturdays check our website for meetings (no meetings in Dec or Jan) Contact: Tim Cox by E-mail: timcox102@hotmail.com Please checkour website for newsletters and schedules. http://westmichiganbonsaiclub.com/

MICHIGAN - Kalamazoo
Bonsai Society of Kalamazoo meets the 2nd Sunday of each month at 2 PM, at the Girl Scout Headquarters, located at the corner of Maple and Crosstown in Kalamazoo. Contact: Greg Filter, Phone:(269) 979-7974 or E-mail: glf@proinnovation.com Founded in 1980. Visitors are always welcome. The Bonsai Society-Kalamazoo (BS-K) is a nonprofit, educational organization whose aim is to promote knowledge, appreciation, enjoyment, and interest in the ancient Oriental arts of Japanese bonsai and Chinese penjing.

MICHIGAN - Traverse City
Sakura Bonsai Society of Northern Michigan -Contact: Eric Hallman (231) 932-7509 or by E-mail:e-dhallman@juno.com . Annual dues $20. Monthly newsletters, collection trips, plant auctions & trades. Meetings are April thru October. website

MICHIGAN - Tri-Cities
The San Toshi Bonsai Club meets the third Thursday of each month at Bay Landscaping, 1630 N Southeast Boutell, Essexville, MI. Contact: Anne Kemper at 517-835-7730 agkemper@hotmail.com

MICHIGAN - Troy
Four Seasons Bonsai Club meets the last Sunday of the month at 2 pm. at Telly's Greenhouse & Nursery, 3301 John R. Road, Troy, Michigan. Contact: Todd Renshaw, Phone: 248-585-9916, E-mail: webmaster@mababonsai.org Please check our website for newsletters, schedules & galleries.

MICHIGAN - Mt. Pleasant
Manaka (mean in the middle) Bonsai Club meets 3rd Wednesday of the month @ 7pm at Brooks 148 on CMU's campus. Email Dan Koefoed (That's me!) koefo1ds@cmich.edu Phone: 989-560-1929.
(This is a club that started about 2 years ago by yours truly. 6-8 members and building steam!)
 
Like most things, one's notion of what pinching is varies dramatically. Personally I have been pinching junipers for 25 years and they are all still alive and doing very well...not every Juniper listens to the "great wisdom" from Portland!

For me pruning junipers is always a combination of pruning with shears, some limited pinching, and some ripping of foliage. Technique is important...I only pinch the very very tips (if you get brown tips you are pinching too much)...its not just pinch and rip...its more of a gentle pinch and a quick twist of the fingers. If you have a juniper than needs serious foliage reduction, pruning with shears is the better option...but in a couple months pinching might be more appropriate for ramifying the pads.
I use scissors anytime I am reducing foliage, but I use pinching to develop more dense foliage in the pads. I rip foliage that is unneeded(bottom of pads).

It completely amazes me how one or two people can say something and now its the gospel. For an alternative perspective to the Portland view, watch a few of Bjorn's videos where he and Owen actually pinch junipers in preparation for showing in Japan...uh oh..taboo!!!...I hope pointing this out doesn't cause them to lose his bonsai master status:)
 
not every Juniper listens to the "great wisdom" from Portland! . . . . (and) It completely amazes me how one or two people can say something and now its the gospel.

:D:rolleyes:

A-men
 
I have to agree with John, also. I have a faily large juniper (will to me) and I have been pinching it for about 8 years now, and using shears also. Last fall i
 
Wow, don't know what happened there, I guess the rest got eaten by the gremlins in cyberspace or the NSA stole it. The rest of it:

I pinched the heck out of it last fall and it looks better than it ever has. To me pinching is just another form of pruning. I'm a long way from master status, but the "don't pinch" hypothesis doesn't apply to my juniper.

John
 
I think much of this conversation is semantics to be honest but one has to ask themselves, horticulturally speaking, what is BEST for the plant? Can they survive, sure. Can they even do well, probably. Will they be at their best when removing the tips that the plant uses to generate energy, probably not.

Does that mean you shouldn't? Kinda up to you. How many plants do you have, how much time do you have, how good do you want them to be? To me this is the same as the soil conversation. Does the practice and results of one person make the comments of the other wrong. Perhaps not. Do they have different amounts of time, plants and different expectations of quality? Probably.

Moral of both stories (juni tips and soil)...be willing to learn but practice what your expectations, watch and pocketbook can afford.
 
The piching of junipers is becoming a new soil-like taboo theme :)
Anyhow, you can check the thread BVF posted few posts above me and examine posts number #34 and #47.
 
Okay, I thought the pinching versus pruning was the opposite for Shimpahu. I thought Shimpaku was supposed to be pinched, pulled loose, with fingers. I thought that pruning, cutting with scissors, created bad browning results.
 
Check out THIS video by Graham Potter. It's pretty thorough and explains the maintenance of Shimps and when/how to do what.
 
War??? nah...this is barely a skimmerish
 
This video is more than 5 years old now but I still handle my junipers the same way...

1. pruning with shears - used to remove unneeded foliage on juniper in any stage of development
2. Fine pinching - only used to do fine adjustments to the silhouette of pads...used typically on more refined pads/trees
3. Rough pinching - perhaps referred to by others as ripping...course technique used on developing material, the underneath of pads and as a time saver...can leave brown tips

These are the techniques I use...your mileage may vary...I don't own or work on any collected junipers...only nursery grown material...I have about 150 shimpaku that I work on and a few procumbens nana.

 
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