Thank you.
I’m not exactly sure what you mean about the design of the tree, forgive me.
Sorry for the delay, we both had to get ready for a study group….
Guess what I was trying to convey was… at least in my mind , this azalea trunk reaches out to me asking for a design if not better, bigger…or perhaps more formal design than the basic johng pattern. (Not implying his pattern isn’t great.
)
Here’s an example of a design of one of the trees was thinking about. It’s working towards a long arm azalea, as suggested before, long arm on left. Hino Maru
Glad
@Chuah dropped in, as he has a really good design for his chinzan and another possible approach for the tree… His clip and grow skills are awesome btw.
Are you suggesting that I cut the branches back shorter and keep the whole design hedged so that the branches are really tight and can’t be made out as well? I think I know what you mean but I’m struggling to explain atm lol.
Not sure ever mentioned cutting back hard, but
@Chuah demonstrated an awesome example of this process…..
I have read in Rick Garcia’s book that too much fertilizer will cause dead zones in the root ball which will manifest into root rot or a very weak tree. Azalea roots will not grow where the soil is really rich with fertilizer or where there are dead roots.
This is true. Given one does not apply properly or care for their tree properly, this can indeed happen.
There are well over 200 satsuki and other azalea we work on. 90+ cultivars. None seem to be affected by dead roots or fertilizer pockets….
Both quantity and quality of the nutrients (and delivery time) are most important then organic or inorganic.
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Personally don’t care what fertilizer anyone else uses, organic or chemically derived, as long as the azalea gets an acidic based fertilizer with needed micronutrients at low doses. Do it your own way. (But please keep an open mind to the ideas of other experienced practitioners .)
But there is a downside to each
We see lots of azaleas not doing well due to gunked up media. Biogild and Holly Tone types tend to be the worst. Constant application of fish fertilizer will also gunk up the media. Rather do soji only when it’s absolutely needed. (Also don’t like lugging watering cans around at frequent intervals.)
We recycle all our media, APL and Kanuma/Pumice. If you do so, you’ll know right off which batch came from organic fertilizer users and/or tree s that have not been repotted for a long time.
Chemical fertilizer can damage the roots of azaleas if one doesn’t recognize azaleas need less fertilizer then other trees. A couple years ago we actually counted the number of pellets wanted of Osmocote Plus for azaleas in various pot sizes to avoid this issue. This was equated to a measuring spoon to speed up application. 1/16” of TSP is our smallest pot ferts
However we only apply Osmocote Plus twice a year. After flowering and early September when the temperates recede a liquid fertilizerr supplement is used. For example weak dose of miracid, humic+kelp.
I usually keep organic solid in baskets or teabags on all of my trees and also feed a maintenance dose of fish emulsion for all my trees at 1/4 strength.
Tried them.. no time, lots of plastic and chasing tea bagscaround. . However the area of media under the applicator was always gunky afterwards .
Never understood what a maintenance dose was? Isn’t it a term used for fertilizer applications for a refined tree…?
This particular tree has been getting watered every 3-4 days. Others needing water every day or every other. Stuff in cement tubs or big training pots aren’t getting watered at all right now, it rains frequent enough to maintain a healthy o2/h2o ratio in the soil this time of yr. I’ll throw in some humic acid once every other week or 3 also. You think that’s too much?
Watering is an individual thing, varying by location, media used, size and style of pot, time of year and tree type. So can’t comment on this. But sounds like you have a handle on watering.
Fertilization is an intentional process. Each tree has its own profile. If you think that’s appropriate based upon experience with azaleas, that’s ok. The impression was the tree wasn’t getting enough micronutrients.
As for the moss, it may not appear like it but it’s actually pretty dense. I’d say 1/2” at least for sure. I performed soji on it earlier in the spring, replaced about an 1” of kanuma and the whole layer of spent yamagoke that came with the tree. Is that okay or not?
Only need to do this process if the soil is properly absorbing water. Soji is only done to enhance percolation. Out here we don’t do it, as percolation is good for three years if Yamagoke moss is used.
Moss replacement is only done for percolation or aesthetic reasons. If one does replace or remove Yamagoke, it’s possible to wash and dry the removed moss, rehydrate and use again…. And save some bucks side a new tree
I appreciate you a bunch. You’ve been very active and typically respond to everything I post, I am grateful for your time and honesty.
Thanks
Cheers
DSD sends
