Shimpaku Juniper help

[Corwyn13]

HI gang,

New to the forum and I'd say advanced newby to bonsai.
I was gifted this tree, which I think has been neglected for some time.

Looking for some help for short term triage and best way to determine what I should do with it as far as repotting.

Tree was wired and there is severe wire damage on just about every branch, I think even the raffia has caused some damage to trunk grown.
I was told that this was sitting in full sun ( in MA USA) had not been watered for about a week to week and a half at this point and not really sure when it was fertilized or potted last.

I removed all wire and raffia, keeping it in semi stage and plan to give it soaking and then feed with some 3 3 3.

Any suggestions what I can do with all the wire damage (other than time) and how I can best determine
A) current health
B) need to re pot and change soil (assuming waiting to do this in the sept/oct)

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

A) current health
B) need to re pot and change soil (assuming waiting to do this in the sept/oct

Feed it heavily and keep it in full sun. Carefully remove the remaining raffia, but don’t prune any green foliage. You can remove weak and yellowing foliage, but the tree needs to build up some strength.

Do not repot it in the fall, wait until spring. Juvenile foliage is indicative of a weakened tree (and uncommon on Shimpaku), no need to add to that this year if you can get it through this year and properly repot in the spring. If it’s draining slowly, aerate the soil by driving a chopstick down to the bottom of the pot in 8-10 places throughout the root ball. You can backfill the holes with lava rock or pumice, or leave them open.

 

[sorce]

Welcome to Crazy!

Looks promising.

Sorce

 

[Shibui]

Unfortunately there's not much that you can do about wire damage except wait.
Raffia and heavy wire is great for bending thicker branches but if it is not removed in time the results can be terrible.
It is hard to get a good feel for the overall branching from the few photos but hopefully some of the affected branches may not be critical to the tree's styling and you can remove them or convert to jin.

BTW, timing can depend which part of the world you live in then I finally spotted USA in the text. If you plan to stay round it pays to add a location to your profile so you don't have to remember to include that each time you post.

 

[Corwyn13]

thanks for the feedback.
Brian, yes it is draining slowly and the soil seems quit compact. This along with what I am guessing has been at least 1-2 years of neglect given the wire damage is why I was thinking of re planting in the fall

Shibui,
Sadly, other than the main trunk there is not a branch I can find that does not have some level of wire damage. I can post more pics but I didn't want to overwhelm the forum.

I like junipers in Sharinki and given the damage it is probably the way to go. But as you said, for now it's triage and care to see if it makes it.
I was planning feeding with 3 3 3 because I have no idea what and when it was fed. Coupled with the damage I was concerned about shocking it. Sounds like you are suggesting more aggressive feeding? 6 6 6 once a mouth till sept?

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Welcome Aboard B’Nut!

I won’t worry about the wire scars too much, it’s a bit distressing, yet your tree is still alive. In the meantime, you might concentrate on future design options while getting the tree healthy.

For fertilizer I’d go with twice a month with a liquid fertilizer on a juniper, even 7-14 days where I am and add Biogold Less if your are experiencing big heat. However I don’t know for sure as you haven’t posted your location yet.

This can be easily resolved. Please tap your icon at the top of the page and enter your approximate location and USDA zone. This way we can give better advice, especially on things like use and frequency of fertilizer.

Cheers and Welcome Aboard again!
DSD sends

 

[Corwyn13]

Welcome Aboard B’Nut!

I won’t worry about the wire scars too much, it’s a bit distressing, yet your tree is still alive. In the meantime, you might concentrate on future design options while getting the tree healthy.

For fertilizer I’d go with twice a month with a liquid fertilizer on a juniper, even 7-14 days where I am and add Biogold Less if your are experiencing big heat. However I don’t know for sure as you haven’t posted your location yet.

This can be easily resolved. Please tap your icon at the top of the page and enter your approximate location and USDA zone. This way we can give better advice, especially on things like use and frequency of fertilizer.

Cheers and Welcome Aboard again!
DSD sends

Thanks, I think I did it right this time,

I am in Boston MA USA zone 5. Thanks for the welcome and the advice

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Thank You

OK. It it were me I’d do Miracid. Use 1/2 amount of what Miracid calls for and if all goes well go to full strength throughout. Y
the growing season unless you get a big heat dome. At high temps above about 93F ferts can do harm.

Since you are concerned with media drainage I’d use Osmocote Plus in refillable tea bags vs Biogold which can gunk up media, especially if it is in poor condition. Again, use 1/2 of the amount called for and add more tea bags in the weeks ahead.

If the temperature gets above 92F ish you can take the bags off, then put the bags back on when the weather moderates. I use a wire bent to a staple form to keep the bags on.

Others may have different ideas, but that’s what I do for heavily pruned Junipers, so in way, similar to a weakened tree.

cheers
DSD sends

 

[Corwyn13]

so guys I've been staring at this tree for three months and I have no idea what to do with it!>

I think I will repot it next month, but I can't seem to find a first step in reshaping this tree. looking for input. ( i can post more pics of the branches if that helps)

 

[gjones_42]

so guys I've been staring at this tree for three months and I have no idea what to do with it!>

I think I will repot it next month, but I can't seem to find a first step in reshaping this tree. looking for input. ( i can post more pics of the branches if that helps)

I can empathize, been struggling with a clump design myself and trawling for ideas...

For yours, consider a cascade or semi cascade? Looks like the main trunk has a strong downwards bend like a tree that got snapped off in the woods.

Snag a picture at eye level with the pot so the trunk is visible and I'm sure folks will have more detailed input.

 

[James W.]

so guys I've been staring at this tree for three months and I have no idea what to do with it!>

I think I will repot it next month, but I can't seem to find a first step in reshaping this tree. looking for input. ( i can post more pics of the branches if that helps)

Just repot it and let it recover and get happy happy happy.
I don't think you will cause any issues if you just look at it for another year. Restyling the tree will involve removing branches and foliage, you need to leave that foliage on until the tree has fully recovered from repotting. From what I can see you have a nice project and you can afford to move slowly.
You could consider an angle change when you repot. Take some pictures from eye level all around the tree and maybe somebody will have some good ideas.

 

[BrightsideB]

I agree with @James W. I have one as well and as much as I want to style I know it needs to gain strength to put up with the abuse. Looks like you will be doing a lot of trimming and bending in the future. Looks like some nice potential! Good tree! Post some more photo’s for idea’s.

 

[Corwyn13]

Ok guys here is a current shot of the tree 360.
I think it made it though the winter fine. I removed the wiring holding it in the pot as part of removing the rest of the wiring that was biting branches pretty hard, Root ball looks good and while it is a bit lose in the pot it is not root bound. But as suggested I was thinking of repotting it as part of changing the angle. Question is, which way!
I think the obvious would be to increase the cascade and angle it slightly to the right in order to expose the trunk,
https://gardenerspath.com/how-to/pruning/grow-cascade-bonsai/ 4th pick down on this page is pretty much this tree
- If I go this way - I'm thinking changing the pot to a square and taller one.


But I am wondering if someone sees a more radical, less obvious option that is more interesting than another one in a million - ho hum IMHO - cascade juniper that could be developed by setting a different angle?

 

[Farwest]

I could be mistaken, but it appears to be a prostrata juniper based on the coarser, elongated nature of the scale foliage, with interspersed juvenile needle foliage on what may have been a stressed plant.

I mention this only because they lend themselves to larger-sized bonsai, which may affect your styling decisions.

The first photo is prostrada. The second is shimpaku kishu.

 

[Japonicus]

@Corwyn13 you have a fantastic bonsai nursery and club in your neighborhood.
914 S. Main St. (Rte. 126) Bellingham, MA 02019

New England Bonsai Gardens - Excellence in Bonsai Since 1987

Come and visit the North East's Largest Bonsai Nursery.

www.nebonsai.com

I bought a nice shimpaku there years ago. I've been to 4 bonsai nurseries and
NEB so far is the best I've visited.

Great idea to aerate the soil like Brian said. A 16d nail or similar tent spike would do fine.
Start by wiggling the tip in to be sure you're not going through a good root and press
to bottom of pot if possible and repeat a couple inches apart each time.

Very true, your juniper may've been mislabeled as shimpaku. Happens a lot.

I personally like the pot it's in. As for deciding the front, you'll have to 1st assess the nebari
and secondly, display the jin. You need a small wire wheel in a variable speed Dremel tool to best
remove the algae and debris, but a metal wire tooth brush would be a start. Then follow up with lime sulphur
to protect from further decay and brighten the wood.

 

[coltranem]

It might help to see it in person. Like @Japonicus said we have a club that meets once a month at the nursery. You are welcome to bring it to the next meeting and you can get some advice. If interested PM me.

 

[gjones_42]

Ok guys here is a current shot of the tree 360.
I think it made it though the winter fine. I removed the wiring holding it in the pot as part of removing the rest of the wiring that was biting branches pretty hard, Root ball looks good and while it is a bit lose in the pot it is not root bound. But as suggested I was thinking of repotting it as part of changing the angle. Question is, which way!
I think the obvious would be to increase the cascade and angle it slightly to the right in order to expose the trunk,
https://gardenerspath.com/how-to/pruning/grow-cascade-bonsai/ 4th pick down on this page is pretty much this tree
- If I go this way - I'm thinking changing the pot to a square and taller one.


But I am wondering if someone sees a more radical, less obvious option that is more interesting than another one in a million - ho hum IMHO - cascade juniper that could be developed by setting a different angle?

Couple thoughts based on my experiences learning/starting out with a similar species and similar climate.

Repotting wise, that window is closing if it hasn't closed already, depending on where specifically you're at. My juniper has brightened up in green color and is probably going to bud in the next week or so, especially with all these warm sunny days we've had. I am ~1h north of Boston, and it's been way warmer in the city than up here, so your tree may be farther along than mine. I've noticed a huge increase in water uptake, so the tree is really ramping up even if I can't see the growth yet. Your tree looks vibrant green, none of the slightly brownish color junipers get in winter when the pigments are stored.

This may be a good thing for you, since repotting will set you back in how you can work the tree during the year. If you aren't rootbound and percolation is good, you can take the time to find the right angle/corresponding movement in the folliage. This was the strategy I took, because I knew I needed a radical rework of the foliage and couldnt do roots + foliage. You can test different angles by putting angled wooden blocks under it and securing the pot to a table while you do so. This way you can look at radically changed angles without finding yourself in a situation with an exposed rootball and the urgency to quickly get into a pot while you look at what angle you like. You may want a bit of wire on that lowest branch, because as much as you steepen the angle you will want to make sure that moves outwards (does that make sense? hard to articulate what I mean).

Angle-wise find what is most interesting to you, and lean into it, even if it looks plain or like many other trees. When this idea clicked for me I was finally able to restyle my tree, and I know I did good (for me) because I can't stop wandering over to stare at the tree. Play around with some different ideas until you get that feeling. For me it helped to think about the story of the tree I was telling with different decisions... in other words, if it was a tree in nature what process made this happen so it looked like the final result. For you, my sense is having the cascade to the left so you can see the jin would be a good start, and potentially rotating it away from you so the jin points more upwards.