Skinnygoomba
Shohin
This is how I sharpen my grafting knife;
I have a few important tools for this;
DMT flat coarse diamond plate
Naniwa Chosera 1000 & 3000
Shinden Yama Renge Suita
Tomo Nagura
Water
Rubber mats
I have two diamond plates, I decided to switch the better one right off the bat...sorry for the bait and switch.
The back of the blade has a dished hallow leading out to a flat edge at the front (cutting edge) and part of the back, the purpose for this is so that the leading edge can be flattened successfully and maintained easily. I put an initial flattening on the back with my diamond plate, but then I rarely ever touch it again with anything other than my finish stone.
This is the initially flattened back
I soak my naniwa stones at this point, preparing them for the next step, to work the back through 1000
At this point I should have a good burr on the beveled edge, so I will then flatten my beveled edge with 1000 grit until it is flat and the burr has gone to the flat side of the blade.
Next I soak my 3000 and have a servant deliver a snack.
At this point, things are looking good, I have a very flat edge without areas indicating they are out of flat. I can see the weld line between the hard and soft steel.
Next I am working with my 3000 grit stone, which this Naniwa is one of my favorites;
The back is so flat and polished that it can stick to the stone. This can be annoying but I use enough water to minimize it and clear the swarf.
I have turned the blade over and brought the bevel edge up to a 3000 grit hone as well.
Next, I do not soak my shinden stone, it is far too precious to co-mingle with the lower stones. I put a little bit of distilled water on the stone and use tomo nagura to build a slight slurry.
I am working through the back and edge moving the burr back and forth and polishing both sides will maintaining the geometry of the blade.
Now I have a good finish on the back leading edge and also on the bevel, the weld line is clearly defined and everything is very sharp. My final step is to strop the blade on a good clear strop until the wire edge has completely diminished.
I have a few important tools for this;
DMT flat coarse diamond plate
Naniwa Chosera 1000 & 3000
Shinden Yama Renge Suita
Tomo Nagura
Water
Rubber mats
I have two diamond plates, I decided to switch the better one right off the bat...sorry for the bait and switch.
The back of the blade has a dished hallow leading out to a flat edge at the front (cutting edge) and part of the back, the purpose for this is so that the leading edge can be flattened successfully and maintained easily. I put an initial flattening on the back with my diamond plate, but then I rarely ever touch it again with anything other than my finish stone.
This is the initially flattened back
I soak my naniwa stones at this point, preparing them for the next step, to work the back through 1000
At this point I should have a good burr on the beveled edge, so I will then flatten my beveled edge with 1000 grit until it is flat and the burr has gone to the flat side of the blade.
Next I soak my 3000 and have a servant deliver a snack.
At this point, things are looking good, I have a very flat edge without areas indicating they are out of flat. I can see the weld line between the hard and soft steel.
Next I am working with my 3000 grit stone, which this Naniwa is one of my favorites;
The back is so flat and polished that it can stick to the stone. This can be annoying but I use enough water to minimize it and clear the swarf.
I have turned the blade over and brought the bevel edge up to a 3000 grit hone as well.
Next, I do not soak my shinden stone, it is far too precious to co-mingle with the lower stones. I put a little bit of distilled water on the stone and use tomo nagura to build a slight slurry.
I am working through the back and edge moving the burr back and forth and polishing both sides will maintaining the geometry of the blade.
Now I have a good finish on the back leading edge and also on the bevel, the weld line is clearly defined and everything is very sharp. My final step is to strop the blade on a good clear strop until the wire edge has completely diminished.