Seeking trunk / pruning advice (Japanese maple)

[ptrk]

Bought this Japanese maple last year and loved watching it put out strong growth. I placed it in a shallow but wide pot and am wanting to make sure I prioritize root flare / thickening up the trunk above all else.

It’s pretty leggy and has a lot of strong branching in the middle which I feel will lead to a knuckle in the trunk.

My question is, does it matter? On one hand I want to make sure I’m creating a nice branch structure but on the other, I could let it run wild for a few years, chop it, and refine from there.

Curious what others have found success with and any styling / growing advice is much appreciated.

 

[Juanmi]

I think you souldn't worry about the branches right now. I don't know your level of knowdlege. I'm a newbie myself. But as I see it you would want to follow this steps:

1 - Form the trunk structure and taper
2 - Select primary branches
3 - Ramification

If you cut around the red line and if everything goes well, it might grow some new branches on the internodes.
Then you will select one of them to keep forming the trunk. Repeat the operation until you get the thickness and form that you're happy with.

I hope I've been clear. If there is something you don't understand feel free to ask.

 

[Ugo]

Hi!

I'm also fairly new to bonsai but my approach with your material would be air layering up the trunk in order to keep that first main branch that has close nodes as a continuation of the trunk.
I will then prune that main branch hoping for back budding and you will end up with a nicely shaped trunk I think.

I must admit I'm a bit afraid of the scar it will leave on the left side, that's why I've seen the pros do this kind of work earlier in development.

This is for me a technique I will try to learn:
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/did-i-take-off-too-many-roots.42083/post-943777

Please take that with a grain of salt as I'm using post like yours to also get more knowledge. Let the pro confirm anything before getting the tools out!

 

[Shibui]

The cluster of branches will almost certainly lead to a knuckle but, as you seem to be aware, that does not matter if its on a part you intend to chop at some stage.

Simply growing in a wide, shallow container does not always ensure good root flare. You are likely to get a few strong roots at random spacing. Regular root pruning has a far more positive effect on root structure and you can prune to promote more roots where needed and contain any stronger ones. Pruning roots will also promote good root ramification.

When to chop the top depends on what strategy you want to follow and what size trunk you want.
Many growers seem to allow growth to close to finished thickness then do a single large trunk chop. It then takes many years of subsequent development to heal that huge cut (if it does heal before the wood rots) and to develop the new trunk and branches. Large chops are best done when you still have lots of fast growth ahead to help heal the cuts.
I favour regular chops, each of which promotes several new leaders. After allowing those to grow similar to your current growth to thicken the trunk most can be selectively removed to give your trunk bends and taper. Each cut is much smaller than a single large one so heals quicker. After several rounds of chop and grow you should have a trunk with good taper and attractive bends, possibly the beginnings of main branches. By the time trunk thickness is achieved you'll be well ahead on subsequent development and usually save years of work on the final leg.

On the other hand if you just want a small, simple bonsai just chop around 1/3 of the height you'd like to finish at and style with whatever new shoots emerge.

 

[sorce]

Welcome to Crazy!

Sorce

 

[ptrk]

The cluster of branches will almost certainly lead to a knuckle but, as you seem to be aware, that does not matter if its on a part you intend to chop at some stage.

Simply growing in a wide, shallow container does not always ensure good root flare. You are likely to get a few strong roots at random spacing. Regular root pruning has a far more positive effect on root structure and you can prune to promote more roots where needed and contain any stronger ones. Pruning roots will also promote good root ramification.

When to chop the top depends on what strategy you want to follow and what size trunk you want.
Many growers seem to allow growth to close to finished thickness then do a single large trunk chop. It then takes many years of subsequent development to heal that huge cut (if it does heal before the wood rots) and to develop the new trunk and branches. Large chops are best done when you still have lots of fast growth ahead to help heal the cuts.
I favour regular chops, each of which promotes several new leaders. After allowing those to grow similar to your current growth to thicken the trunk most can be selectively removed to give your trunk bends and taper. Each cut is much smaller than a single large one so heals quicker. After several rounds of chop and grow you should have a trunk with good taper and attractive bends, possibly the beginnings of main branches. By the time trunk thickness is achieved you'll be well ahead on subsequent development and usually save years of work on the final leg.

On the other hand if you just want a small, simple bonsai just chop around 1/3 of the height you'd like to finish at and style with whatever new shoots emerge.

I never considered doing regular chops like that to build taper and ramification as you go. Makes a ton of sense and seems like you'd get to know the tree better as you're continually working on it, rather than waiting 5+ years for one chop.

Any harm in doing a seasonal chop w/ root pruning in the same season?

 

[Shibui]

No problem at all doing chop and root prune in the same season or at the same time provided the tree is healthy. The 'one insult' guideline really applies to conifers.