Seedling cutting technique

KennedyMarx

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Jonas Dupuich has written about creating Japanese black pine from seed on his blog. Cutting the roots off completely after sprouting and then developing a new radial nebari to make good future bonsai. Here are a couple articles:

http://bonsaitonight.com/2011/07/01/how-to-create-seedling-cuttings-japanese-black-pine/

Http://bonsaitonight.com/2012/05/25/how-to-pot-pine-seedling-cuttings/


I'm planning on attempting this next spring with some JBP. Has anyone tried it before and if so with other plants besides JBP? I am interested in using it for Japanese and Trident maples.
 
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I would imagine that it would work. I'm not sure there would be any advantage to using seedlings cuttings over regular cuttings for anything other than a pine. The idea of using seedlings cuttings for pines is that they are at a point in development where they can regenerate roots easily. As pines get older they lose this ability. That is why it is so hard to grow pines from cuttings. Other trees are much easier to root so cuttings from older wood can be used.

So I am almost certain that seedling cuttings would work for other trees but would offer no advantage unless they are known to be hard to root.
 
Thanks, Josef. I was thinking that I could start out with a radial nebari rather than need to graft or ground layer the maples later on. I've been thinking a lot about this lately and am considering doing a few maple seedling cuttings and leaving the majority alone as an experiment.
 
I've sorta' done it with Deciduous oaks, trident maple, amur maple, zelkova and probably a few others that I can't recall.

Basically, with nothing much invested in the tree I figure it's worth a try. What I've typically done is to plant seeds in mid- or late-spring then allow the seedling to grow for the season; then, during the following winter I bare-root and cut the roots up to one of the top-most side root. This usually leaves a couple squiggly roots coming out laterally. But, since you're doing it during the off season and it's a young plant the success rate is pretty high.

If the trunk is large enough I'll drill a hole in the cut and attach it to a board with a stainless steel screw.

As for doing it during the first month that the tree comes up, I think success would depend on the species and the climate.
 
KennedyMarx they are interesting articles you linked. One thing I wonder about they are both posted back in 2011-12 and I seen them cut and placed into pots, where is the progression or even proof that they lived through the cutting and being placed in fine sand and akadama?

ed
 
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At a later date, I believe this year, Mr. Dupuich, said he was going to try the normal way.
Very radial roots look artificial, so you have to be careful with the effect, it's like an octopus.
Good Day
Anthony
 
Is it worth it?

Seems like an awful lot of work. Unless the result is astounding I am questioning the value.
 
KennedyMarx they are interesting articles you linked. One thing I wonder about they are both posted back in 2011-12 and I seen them cut and placed into pots, where is the progression or even proof that they lived through the cutting and being placed in fine sand and akadama?

ed

It is a proven technique that has been used by many people. I have used it with pitch pine this last spring. Next spring I will see how the roots developed. I have about 10 that I cut and 10 that I did not. It will be interesting to see how they differ.

Jonas has several posts on the seedling cutting technique. Bonsai Tonight Japanese Red and Black pine articles

Kennedy, after rereading my post I want you to understand that I'm not trying to dissuade you from trying the technique with other species. There is always room for experimentation. In fact this could be good way to collect wild seedlings. You could pluck them up then when you get home make cuttings with them and place them in pots. You would not have to worry about damaging the roots at collection.
 
Jonas mentioned placing the JBP seedling cuttings under shade cloth after the procedure... Is this necessary, and if so what percent shadecloth should I use?


I rooted 3/3 last year but I dont remember how I did it...
 
Are you able to place them out of the sun? I'd just keep them out of the sun for the first 4-6 weeks and then work back into full sun.
 
Are you able to place them out of the sun? I'd just keep them out of the sun for the first 4-6 weeks and then work back into full sun.
If you mean full shade by trees, then yes-

but I thought that would be too much shade?
 
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If you mean full shade by trees, then yes-

but I thought that would be too much shade?

Most things I have read indicate to keep them out of sun and wind for several weeks after you have made the cuttings. And after several weeks you should have good roots going and can get them into sun. Mine got virtually no sun at all and did fine.
 
Most things I have read indicate to keep them out of sun and wind for several weeks after you have made the cuttings. And after several weeks you should have good roots going and can get them into sun. Mine got virtually no sun at all and did fine.
Awesome to know, thanks. I think I have the perfect spot in mind.
 
Are you able to place them out of the sun? I'd just keep them out of the sun for the first 4-6 weeks and then work back into full sun.

I'll second this. Also don't mess with them to see if they rooted. Just leave them alone. Look for new growth. This is a good indication that they have rooted. If I remember correctly it was around the 4-6 week point. I also started to fertilize around this same time.
 
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