Scrog’s Large JPM

[Scrogdor]

Picked this up yesterday from Lone Pine Gardens! Worked within my budget after I consolidated many sticks I bought this year. Excited to work on this next spring.

I’ll get a better look at it once leaf drop occurs. It’s about 2 feet tall with a 3 inch trunk. leans heavy one way with a ton of choices for a new trunk line if I end up shortening it a little bit. Cheers

 

[Scrogdor]

Got a better look at this now that most the leaves are gone. Plan to do a big root reduction and get it into a shallow/wide pot.

 

[Scrogdor]

Does chopping off this last section make sense? I’m thinking so because that last section is so straight and much longer than the other sections.

Red is where I would cut, blue is the next bud.

 

[BobbyLane]

I never make styling decisions by looking at the tree from above and I always cut down an area of the nursery pot I see as the best potential front with all things considered like rootspread, trunk line, branch structure etc. then i view the tree from the base upwards. and I take pride in doing this. if its cold out, ill bring the tree indoors, have a cup of tea and take my time and study the tree.
usually ill remove all the leaves if its winter. so i can see what im doing.

 

[0soyoung]

Does chopping off this last section make sense? I’m thinking so because that last section is so straight and much longer than the other sections.

Red is where I would cut, blue is the next bud.

Yes, I agree.

After a while (maybe as long as a year), you'll likely trim it back to roughly the blur line = waiting will let the tree show you exactly where. The branch going right from that node is, of course, the next trunk section, has a nicely short first node, and will need to thicken for at least a couple of years (i.e., let it run each year). Meanwhile, there are lots of other things to address, such as that heavy branch and the nebari.

 

[clem]

I agree with Bobbylane. Maybe this trunk section you plan to cut would be usefull for the final project depending on the "front" and trunk inclination you choose.

Members here can help you determine the best front. To do so, you can cut the top edge of the pot (1 inch) , and then you can take several pics of the trunk turning the pot 360° clockwise (or counterclockwise). The more pics the better to determine the best front (nebari + trunk line), at least 8 pics. Don't take the pics from above.

 

[Scrogdor]

Members here can help you determine the best front. To do so, you can cut the top edge of the pot (1 inch) , and then you can take several pics of the trunk turning the pot 360° clockwise (or counterclockwise). The more pics the better to determine the best front (nebari + trunk line), at least 8 pics. Don't take the pics from above.

Here are some pics. One of the big roots coming out is half dead, looks like it’s being strangled by the root over it. I’m leaning towards 1, 2, maybe 7? Appreciate the help

 

[BobbyLane]

With all considered, I may look to do a sloping cut at the first major branch and create some nice taper and movement. why? because you'll be creating a tree that will eventually look decent from all angles is one reason, chopping there gives you that flexibility. 4, 6, 7 can also look at ways to change the planting angle, find one that shows off spread plus gets the new leader going slightly more upright maybe.

Clem is good with maples, see what he says.

 

[BobbyLane]

I like the apex coming at you here and the movement and the base is ok and can be improved. without removing that choking root completely, maybe snip it back to the red first and see if that looks better. you might want to use it if this is the front. the big root in the middle what looks like a tap root, id either plant deeper or tilt tree forward so its obscured or remove it entirely at some point. some might keep it, looks a little thick and downward going from here.

 

[Scrogdor]

I like the apex coming at you here and the movement and the base is ok and can be improved. without removing that choking root completely, maybe snip it back to the red first and see if that looks better. you might want to use it if this is the front. the big root in the middle what looks like a tap root, id either plant deeper or tilt tree forward so its obscured or remove it entirely at some point. some might keep it, looks a little thick and downward going from here.

View attachment 466180

I didn’t really think about that angle . I’d have to cut high and hope for a back bud on the back side of this for a safe slope chop?

This is kind of where my brain goes for simplicity’s sake. Eventually remove the heavy branch and pick a new bud to replace it. Not sure if it could be kept for another few years for further thickening of the first section. Or Something like that.

 

[Scrogdor]

This is kind of what I imagine with your suggestion Bobby.

 

[BobbyLane]

yes its just a suggestion. you might see something else, since you have it in front of you.

 

[clem]

Here are some pics. One of the big roots coming out is half dead, looks like it’s being strangled by the root over it. I’m leaning towards 1, 2, maybe 7? Appreciate the help

Nice.
Pic 6 is my fav' among the pics you have already showed (nebari + trunk line with a curve). The exact opposite pic (180°) of the pic 6 could be interesting too.. that's why i advised you to take as many pics as possible turning 360°.

can you take 3 other pics ? the opposite pic of the 6 (180°) + the pic 9 and pic 10 could be interesting too...

 

[clem]

ps : the pic 4 has a good nebari but the trunk is receding & convex so maybe the opposite pic of the 4 could be better ? (with a concave trunk and an apex coming towards the viewer)

 

[Scrogdor]

Nice.
Pic 6 is my fav' among the pics you have already showed (nebari + trunk line with a curve). The exact opposite pic (180°) of the pic 6 could be interesting too.. that's why i advised you to take as many pics as possible turning 360°.

can you take 3 other pics ? the opposite pic of the 6 (180°) + the pic 9 and pic 10 could be interesting too...
View attachment 466220

do these work? Appreciate the help, thank you! The back of the tree is pretty bare, there is that one tiny little bud though. Hoping that continues to grow.

 

[clem]

Nice, can you take a last pic ? the opposite of the 4, in order to see this trunk with a concave shape ->

 

[clem]

Up to now, the trunk line i prefer is this one. You can thread graft all the branches (very easy to do believe me ->


The new apex could be the orange line ->


On your tree, there are stubs that you can remove with a large concave clamp (red lines) ->


you can thread graft all the branches at the exact position you need. Thread grafting with the branches of your tree is 100% succes, in my experience you just need a battery drill.
The weak point of your tree, imo, is the lack of tapper of the trunk. The nebari can always be improved (root work during repotting, thread grafting of JM cuttings, or air layer).

 

[Scrogdor]

Nice, can you take a last pic ? the opposite of the 4, in order to see this trunk with a concave shape ->
View attachment 466261

These should do it! It is kinda chunky huh . Do you have any recommendations for a budget drill set that works well? The problem I run into with my Dremel is the length.

 

[Scrogdor]

Think overall with what everyone has outlined my favorites are 6 and the new line you identified. Or a possible lower chop, just worried about the time it would take to heal.

Was also hoping to cut the pot/ root mass in half. Would this be advisable? Can make a few cuttings from the top section of the trunk to use as root grafts.

 

[clem]

These should do it! It is kinda chunky huh . Do you have any recommendations for a budget drill set that works well? The problem I run into with my Dremel is the length.

No sorry i don't know drill sets in your country.
On this pic, the trunk base is larger but the trunk seems steeper. There is a bulge/reverse tapper on the trunk that will need to be refined. You can use a little branche to build the new apex (orange line) ->