Saving the Boxwoods

[UncleTrout]

Hey y'all,

I had posted this in the yamadori thread but wanted to make it's own for watching the progress on it and to maybe get a little more advice.

Quick recap - these boxwoods are by an old building where I work and the building is going to be torn down. It was originally due to start demo on 5/1 but nothing has started yet. With the demo, they are going to clear the lot (including the boxwoods) to see what the area could be used for in the future.

My main concern now is we are approaching summer and here in central Texas it gets very hot. I already have permission to collect them and am wondering if I should start to move and dig these up ASAP? I was waiting for the demo to start since there is a backhoe and other equipment I was hoping to utilize to make digging them up easier. However, I've read now that their root system isn't too deep and am thinking if I want to collect them I'd better get a shovel and get to digging. I just don't know how I'd approach the side against the house...

Follow up question so I am prepared when/if I dig them up - I've read about reducing foliage/canopy to match the rootball. I guess how much I'd trim back largely depends on how much root ball I get, but is there a general guideline to this? I'm also assuming after collecting, somewhere with morning sun and protected from afternoon heat would be ideal? They are about 4.5/5ft tall.. Been planted at this house for easily 20+ years..

 

[BrightsideB]

Looks like they have potential for a clump style bonsai. I can’t really give you advice on the removal or after care. I never contended with your climate. But the boxwoods aren’t going to be in a positive energy state like early spring or even late fall where they’ve acquired and stored energy to help with recovery and shock. But I don’t think that means it’s impossible. If it’s your only window then that’s all you have. I think the heat is going to be a major factor in recovery. Definitely no direct sun after removal.

I have transplanted trees at an arboretum during summer in Georgia. My advice would be to look at this removal similarly. Try to get the largest size rootball intact you can. Pruning some of the branches back shouldn’t hurt. But you will want the foliage to help it recover and keep the system going. I could be wrong about this approach but it is a safe one. Usually in spring when they’ve acquired tree has a lot of energy stores we can do major cutbacks on the trunk/branches as well as the roots. And the tree will be able to grow new ones relatively quickly. Here in summer the tree is in a different position and growing fresh new foliage in summer can be a strain on an already strained tree. Plus you may not have the root system to sustain the foliage. It’s a hardy thing to pull off. But I have done it to a jm bow that I remember. Dug out a huge rootball and put it into a very large pot with 3 large bags of pumice. It didn’t do well. But did survive until the following spring I did major cutbacks and it is recovering well now 2 years later. The trunk is 3 1/2” so it wasn’t small. But the rootball took two strong dudes to move.

 

[BrianBay9]

Obviously it would be better to collect in winter/spring. But if you have to dig now, @BrightsideB gives good advice. I would not cut back as hard as I would in early spring, saving the big cuts (top and bottom) for next spring. Easier with the equipment, but completely do-able with a shovel and reciprocating saw.

 

[Shibui]

We have transplanted boxwoods by severely reducing the top to main branches only, minimal roots and no field soil. Pot into whatever potting soil you usually use then maintain constant soil moisture until new shoots are growing strong.
Reducing the tops allows you to get to the side closer to the house and allows easier access for the shovel to dig. Generally, there's no real need to retain a huge root ball. New roots will grow from wherever you chop the roots.
Looks like you have plenty to play with so maybe try a few different techniques to see what works well in your area. Dig some by hand, take a few with larger roots, some chopped down, some with tops left intact and some dug with the machine when that arrives on site. I'd be very interested to see if there's any differences in survival rates in your conditions.

 

[UncleTrout]

Looks like they have potential for a clump style bonsai. I can’t really give you advice on the removal or after care. I never contended with your climate. But the boxwoods aren’t going to be in a positive energy state like early spring or even late fall where they’ve acquired and stored energy to help with recovery and shock. But I don’t think that means it’s impossible. If it’s your only window then that’s all you have. I think the heat is going to be a major factor in recovery. Definitely no direct sun after removal.

I have transplanted trees at an arboretum during summer in Georgia. My advice would be to look at this removal similarly. Try to get the largest size rootball intact you can. Pruning some of the branches back shouldn’t hurt. But you will want the foliage to help it recover and keep the system going. I could be wrong about this approach but it is a safe one. Usually in spring when they’ve acquired tree has a lot of energy stores we can do major cutbacks on the trunk/branches as well as the roots. And the tree will be able to grow new ones relatively quickly. Here in summer the tree is in a different position and growing fresh new foliage in summer can be a strain on an already strained tree. Plus you may not have the root system to sustain the foliage. It’s a hardy thing to pull off. But I have done it to a jm bow that I remember. Dug out a huge rootball and put it into a very large pot with 3 large bags of pumice. It didn’t do well. But did survive until the following spring I did major cutbacks and it is recovering well now 2 years later. The trunk is 3 1/2” so it wasn’t small. But the rootball took two strong dudes to move.

Thank you for the advice, it is appreciated! I have been needing to buy pumice so this is my sign to pull the trigger. Do you find a certain size works best?

I’m also wondering if I can talk them into waiting to sign the boxwoods out in fall.. if that’s the case, overwinter case I assume is just don’t let it get too cold as it’s stressed? Even though they are hardy to my zone?

 

[UncleTrout]

Obviously it would be better to collect in winter/spring. But if you have to dig now, @BrightsideB gives good advice. I would not cut back as hard as I would in early spring, saving the big cuts (top and bottom) for next spring. Easier with the equipment, but completely do-able with a shovel and reciprocating saw.

I might try digging one up soon and then ask my boss if they can wait on removing the rest. Would winter be better than fall?

 

[UncleTrout]

We have transplanted boxwoods by severely reducing the top to main branches only, minimal roots and no field soil. Pot into whatever potting soil you usually use then maintain constant soil moisture until new shoots are growing strong.
Reducing the tops allows you to get to the side closer to the house and allows easier access for the shovel to dig. Generally, there's no real need to retain a huge root ball. New roots will grow from wherever you chop the roots.
Looks like you have plenty to play with so maybe try a few different techniques to see what works well in your area. Dig some by hand, take a few with larger roots, some chopped down, some with tops left intact and some dug with the machine when that arrives on site. I'd be very interested to see if there's any differences in survival rates in your conditions.

Thank you for such an informative response! Based off your previous experience they don’t seem too picky and rather durable.. My main concern is we are approaching the hottest two months of the year here.. as I mentioned in another response, I may try to dig one or two up now, and talk to my boss about waiting on removing the rest for a better time.. I don’t know if he’ll go for it but would be worth the ask.

 

[BrightsideB]

Fall is better. I looked up your area and you get several months of 90-100 degrees. The cards aren’t in your favor with any major work done to them. In fall or early spring yes they are more in your favor, specially early spring. During summer growth stops and major transpiration from foliage kicks into high gear with high demand from the roots.

This isn’t an easy removal during summer. You’re basically just relocating the shrub until next spring and you can do the work needed to set it up as pre bonsai in spring. I agree with @Shibui and experimenting with different kinds of removal. But only if you have the patience and time. Otherwise any major work done to these to remove them I think really makes it less likely for survival and your time is down the drain other than the experience. Sometimes I like to weigh what it’s worth. For me if I was in this situation and could snag a few up. I’d remove it with a good size rootball intact and foliage and relocate it into a shady part of the yard until next spring. No initial fertilizer for at least a couple weeks. See if it is able to adapt. This method gives the tree the ability to sustain itself until the time is right next spring.

 

[UncleTrout]

Fall is better. I looked up your area and you get several months of 90-100 degrees. The cards aren’t in your favor with any major work done to them. In fall or early spring yes they are more in your favor, specially early spring. During summer growth stops and major transpiration from foliage kicks into high gear with high demand from the roots.

This isn’t an easy removal during summer. You’re basically just relocating the shrub until next spring and you can do the work needed to set it up as pre bonsai in spring. I agree with @Shibui and experimenting with different kinds of removal. But only if you have the patience and time. Otherwise any major work done to these to remove them I think really makes it less likely for survival and your time is down the drain other than the experience. Sometimes I like to weigh what it’s worth. For me if I was in this situation and could snag a few up. I’d remove it with a good size rootball intact and foliage and relocate it into a shady part of the yard until next spring. No initial fertilizer for at least a couple weeks. See if it is able to adapt. This method gives the tree the ability to sustain itself until the time is right next spring.

I have a feeling I can convince my boss to let me remove them in the fall.. especially if it gives them a better chance for survival.. if I’m wrong I’ll just start digging ASAP and try different methods.

Question if digging in fall, do I have to worry much about overwinter if I have them in pots? They are hardy to my area and my winters are usually very mild.. I also have a solarium attached to my house like the old Wendy’s restaurants I could store them in..

 

[BrightsideB]

They should be good for winter specially if they are mild. Not dipping below freezing much.

The real priority with collecting is making sure to do the right work once to set them up for pre bonsai. Otherwise you will prolong the process which can back you up years. And that can vary depending on what it is that is being collected. Just doing any major work going into summer or during summer could be too much stress.

 

[UncleTrout]

They should be good for winter specially if they are mild. Not dipping below freezing much.

The real priority with collecting is making sure to do the right work once to set them up for pre bonsai. Otherwise you will prolong the process which can back you up years. And that can vary depending on what it is that is being collected. Just doing any major work going into summer or during summer could be too much stress.

Setting them up for pre bonsai would be like potting them in pumice around the rootball? Or is there more to it than that? I’m sorry for all the questions, I’m so new to this and these things are so big I want to make sure to give them their best chance