Root over rocks -- trident and japanese maples

cwilhelm

Sapling
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Seattle Area
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8b
I've been interested in bonsai since I was in college back in the early 2000s, but it wasn't until a couple years ago in Spring 2019 when my wife and I bought our first home that I was able to take it up as a hobby. Having a yard instead of an apartment in the city is nice! This is my first post sharing anything I'm working on, but I wanted to open up the thread as a record for where some of these trees go over the years. Please be gentle :)

Last March I decided to try my hand at starting root-over-rock projects with young Japanese maples I had available. (I understand this is not the best candidate species, but I have a steady supply of 2-5 year old Japanese maples to play with that my mother in law pots up after rescuing from under a landscape tree at her house). Following the technique Harry Harrington outlined on his site (http://bonsai4me.com/AdvTech/ATRootoverrock.htm), I started two JM RoR projects and put them in the ground. Unfortunately I don't have any photos from that initial work.

Harry's technique involves binding the tree to the rock with tightly wrapped plastic wrap, which is supposed to brace the roots against the rock in a way that won't dig in, while also forcing the roots to grow out the bottom. This is in contrast to other methods I've seen, that attach the roots with wire or rafia or both, and place directly into soil on top. To prevent the higher, covered roots from drying out under the plastic wrap he advises working horticultural sand into the voids between rock and plastic. However, in practice I found this was very difficult to do once the plastic wrap was in place, and I suspected I had dry air pockets in places on one of my trees. Because I had only a few sad, spindly roots to work with originally on that tree, I resolved to dig it up and rework it this weekend in case any had died.

Here's what I found this morning after a year in the ground:


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Tons of fine roots growing out in a flat plane at the base of the rock. This was very surprising, as last year I was left with very little to work with after removing the tap root -- just 5-6 spindly roots whose feet just barely reached far enough to emerge from beneath the plastic wrap. Originally, I thought that the tree was going to die, as it took longer to leaf out than my other victims last year.

Next, I unwrapped the plastic to see how things had progressed higher up and whether anything needed to be moved around. In particular, I was looking to see if any of the original roots had indeed died in air voids:

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Answer: no, not at all. Not quite grasping the rock stably yet, but definitely taking its shape, and showing great progress since last year, when they were barely more than feeder roots.

I decided to wrap it back up with open access to the soil this year to encourage development of new roots higher up on the rock. I'd like to fill in some of the gaps between the major roots, especially along one side. Here she is before being replanted:

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Next year I may dig it up again to see if that strategy was successful. If it was, I'll switch back back to Mr. Harrington's technique, and leave it alone in the ground for a couple years. Until then, back where she was:

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I'll share my tridents and the other JM as time allows and when I work on them next. Thanks for looking.
 
I agree. that is a great start to ROR, especially with JM which are not as quick to develop roots as the tridents.
I note a time honored misconception -
I was looking to see if any of the original roots had indeed died in air voids:
Roots easily grow through air pockets underground provided there is enough moisture. In almost every wet cave I have been into there are tree roots growing down through the ceiling. Some even grow 8-10 metres through the cave and into the floor below.
I grow quite a few ROR each year and have found that I don't even need to have roots long enough to come out the bottom of the wrap. They will continue to grow between the rock and the wrap as long as there is moisture for them. Usually it only takes a few weeks for the new roots to make it out into the soil.

Good luck with the continued development of this one.
 
I note a time honored misconception -
Interesting, I didn't realize this. I would have suspected air pockets under the plastic would dry out because moisture might not easily make its way into those voids. I'd also love to see tree roots climbing down several meters through a cave void into the earth below! That is an awesome mental image.

===

Last summer I purchased a few Trident maple seedlings online from Kaedebonsai-en. I slip potted those in July or August to allow some root extension ahead of this Spring so I could start some more RoR projects. I have three going now, as of yesterday. Two were put in deep pots with bonsai soil a couple weekends ago, and one is in the ground as of yesterday with a mix of native soil, garden compost and a bit of small grain pumice for grit -- a fun experiment to see which conditions produce better results. I don't have any photos of the two potted ones, but I will share this image of the one that went into the ground:

IMG_0074.jpg

That is a heavy piece of granite, with a lovely little groove on its right shoulder that the seedling fit into snugly. My wife and I have been collecting interesting rocks during dayhikes in the Cascades for the past couple years for these projects, and those mountains have a fun variety of material to work with. Too bad I didn't take photos of the others before they went into pots!

Next Spring I'll update with photos of all five projects -- two JM and three tridents.

Thanks for looking.
 
Hawaiian lava tubes
Sounds like a high risk - high reward gambit for the trees in question. My wife and I went to Hawaii a few years ago, and the AirBnB we stayed at no longer exists because a month later it got plowed over with lava. :-|
 
Is it the right time of year to repot deciduous in your area? Are the buds swelling?

You've got the answer : "Are the buds swelling?"

For instance, here is a picture of buds on an Acer shirasawanum ssp., from a seed taken on a Shirasawanum 'Autumn Moon'. The buds are in what I would call "stage B", where "stage A" is when the bud is totally closed, whereas in "stage B" they begin to be pushed out by the living part of the bud.

A : November 18, 2020 : perhaps, if you can keep it frost-free. Not my cup of tea.

acershir-sem2_201118a.jpg

B : February 21, 2021 : YES! YES! YES!

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C : March 3, 2020 : Still possible.

acershir-sem3_200303a.jpg

D, E, etc.

This is an example of shirasawanum, but it's about the same with many species of deciduous including palmatum/amoenum : when buds are swelling (stage B).

A lot of deciduous, including maples in particular, can be repotted in summer, esp. if the end of June is rather wet...
 
Is it the right time of year to repot deciduous in your area? Are the buds swelling?
Yep, no concern here. We have very mild winters and most of my maples have been waking up the past few weeks. The Amurs already have half unfurled leaves, the tridents have extension similar to "C" in Alain's post, and my Japanese maples are swelling and started to extend on the apical buds.
 
All my recent collected and reported maples are swelling in FL. Several are an unknown cultivar that sprouted in a pot I’ll need to find the guy that gave them to me’s house and get pictures of the full true. It’s a really big many branches and ramified maple. From what he said. He just brought me a pot with 6 young ones from a few different years in it. I’ll take pics ASAP to posthh BHG in identification thread as none of my collected ones for comparison are leafing out yet.
 
Last summer I purchased a few Trident maple seedlings online from Kaedebonsai-en. I slip potted those in July or August to allow some root extension ahead of this Spring so I could start some more RoR projects. I have three going now, as of yesterday. Two were put in deep pots with bonsai soil a couple weekends ago, and one is in the ground as of yesterday with a mix of native soil, garden compost and a bit of small grain pumice for grit -- a fun experiment to see which conditions produce better results. I don't have any photos of the two potted ones, but I will share this image of the one that went into the ground:

IMG_0074.jpg


That is a heavy piece of granite, with a lovely little groove on its right shoulder that the seedling fit into snugly. My wife and I have been collecting interesting rocks during dayhikes in the Cascades for the past couple years for these projects, and those mountains have a fun variety of material to work with. Too bad I didn't take photos of the others before they went into pots!
The problem I have found with this ROR develpment is that tridents just love to send out new roots just under the soil surface. New roots grow out of the trunk and grow out laterally. Those will cause the trunk to swell at that spot and reduce the strength of the deeper roots you have tied to the rock.
Some species don't do that as much so you can get away with this method for Chinese elm, pines and ficus, even JM if buried for less than 2 years. Tridents are very different and are the reason I have pioneered the alfoil wrap for ROR development.
Interesting, I didn't realize this. I would have suspected air pockets under the plastic would dry out because moisture might not easily make its way into those voids. I'd also love to see tree roots climbing down several meters through a cave void into the earth below! That is an awesome mental image.
Just search cave tree roots or something similar to see photos.
Here's one
cave roots.JPG
 
I went to "Pech Merle" before my kids were born, so that's at least 33 years ago. In the cave, there was a root coming from the ceiling down to the floor. The guide told us that they finally knew which oak it was in 1976 when there was a serious drought : it was the only tree that stayed green and didn't lose any leaves.

For those who can read French, or will bother to find an online translation if they're interested :

 
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The problem I have found with this ROR develpment is that tridents just love to send out new roots just under the soil surface. New roots grow out of the trunk and grow out laterally. Those will cause the trunk to swell at that spot and reduce the strength of the deeper roots you have tied to the rock.
Interesting. Well the other two are fully sealed in plastic, rather than open to the soil, so I'll get some first hand comparisons this time next year!
 
It's that time of the year. This afternoon I dug up the JM RoR I shared with you all last year. For its second year of development, I had left it partially open to the soil with some sphagnum moss strapped on with rafia in places I wanted to encourage more roots to form. There seems to have been a good deal of progress on that front. First two images show progression from 2021->2022. Third image is a side view from today in 2022.

Encouragingly, I got some new healthy roots in a particularly bare area on the rear, and substantial thickening of a thread that reaches across the top left of the rock as viewed from the front. Roots are thicker overall, and the tree is now well adhered to the rock.

As this is my first attempt at RoR, I'm also seeing some lessons for my next attempts at this kind of piece -- in particular there are a lot of crossing roots that have become a bit of an unattractive jumble in places. Seeing last year's photo it's obvious what developed into what, and gives me a better sense of what to be on the lookout for next time. It's also clear that the coarse sand I had used to fill voids in the plastic wrap allowed the roots to lift from the rock, especially near the trunk, and as viewed from the rear.

Overall, I'm still happy with how this one is progressing. It's back in the ground again now wrapped in plastic with no openings for at least another year, after which I'll probably lift it into a training container and away from the increasingly bold rabbits that gnawed on its branches (not pictured) all winter.

Thanks for looking!
 

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