Red Maple #1

[Orion_metalhead]

This was my first Red Maple. I collected it at the same time as my Boxelder Maple from the front garden. It was originally collected in late July 2018 and potted into a 4" plastic pot. It was overwintered with my Boxelder Maple.


Overwintering... this was when the roots had completely frozen solid.


Unpotted prior to repotting this spring. I probably could have repotted a little later but this earlier repotting did not do any harm. I repotted in early March.


The root structure before clean up.


Root structure after cleanup. I like the low curve in the trunk and am intending for the nebari to form below that.


Repotted at the time into Hoffman's mix.


Buds popped two weeks later at the end of March. Tree was kept in my unheated attic after repot.


Tree at the end of February.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Tree today. Had wired it to get some movement in trunk. I noticed the wire was biting in so I removed. Thinking now best time to wire these maples is as they go into winter dormancy and are no longer growing.

 

[AlainK]

I suppose that by "red maple", you mean "Acer rubrum" ?

Right ?

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Yes, hence the tag.

 

[Meh]

Thinking now best time to wire these maples is as they go into winter dormancy and are no longer growing.

I avoid wiring deciduous in fall because it can lead to branch die-back and the bends don't set well until the tree starts growing again anyway. Good discussion on wiring maples in this thread: https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/is-there-a-wrong-time-of-year-to-wire.29181/

Good luck with the red maple, I will be following with interest. Everyone says they make bad bonsai because of the very long leaf petioles, and the best way to address that is to make a big tree--I'm ground-growing some to give it a try.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Great thread. Thanks.

I just feel like its so easy for the wire to dig into branches during growing season. Maybe I put the wire in too tight.

 

[Deleted member 21616]

Everyone says they make bad bonsai because of the very long leaf petioles, and the best way to address that is to make a big tree

or to display it in winter, when there are no petioles

I avoid wiring deciduous in fall because it can lead to branch die-back

I agree! every branch that i wired in november (as a test) was dead come early spring. This included a main trunk on a maple in a similar stage of development to yours, @Orion_metalhead (in which case the whole plant died)

I just feel like its so easy for the wire to dig into branches during growing season. Maybe I put the wire in too tight.

wire in spring as buds swell, remove when leaves harden (before the branches thicken)

re-apply wire if necessary as second flush begins (remove a few weeks later)

At this stage in the tree's development, the wire marks are fine. They will disappear. but don't let them get too severe for no reason. Once the wire starts to dig in just a touch, your wire has already done its job and the branch is set

My recommendation would be to put a lot more movement down low. As the trunk thickens, the movement in the trunk becomes less apparent. But do this in spring.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Color is nice on this. Grabbed this picture before this crazy wind storm we are having. The other red maples are similar color. Very happy with this little tree. Peak color in 10 days.

 

[Warpig]

Yea this is the same storm that brought the snow out west. Just getting crazy winds and plenty of rain.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

End of year. Tree has lost it's leaves.

Age: 2yrs
Training: 2yrs
Width: .28 (+.17")
Height: 9.5"

Wasnt planning on repotting next year but I may if opportunity presents itself.

Front:


From right:


Back:


From left:

 

[AlainK]

It may sound to drastic, but I would perhaps cut it after the first branch on the right, where the wire bit into the bark and left a scar (1st photo), then wire the "new leader"...

 

[Orion_metalhead]

You dont think the wire marks will disappear in a few years after growing out? Either way, I was going to cut this lower most likely.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Did not repot this spring. Going to let it run and do a hard cut in summer...



... since I will have about 15 leaders to choose from:

 

[Hack Yeah!]

Hard cut? What's your final size goals? Let it run...

 

[Orion_metalhead]

No specific size goals at the moment. Thinking total height will be 10 - 12".

I want the trunk shape set to about the halfway mark and then Ill start working on branches and apex. Im less interested in trunk width, as I am with the movement at this point. I know if goes against convention, but I hate the look of big chops and scarring.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

End of year. Tree had some isssues. I think the roots were too bound up or something happened early on. It never put on much growth, and the leaves stayed tiny all year. Only had one flush of growth on it. End of year now and the buds look healthy for next year. It did put on a little more girth, but it definitely is rootbound and needs a repot.









Roots look healthy... no signs of root rot...

 

[0soyoung]

Not all that bad for roots, IMHO. But, they ought to be spread out wider and shallower.

I LOVE all that low budding! Makes me salivate over the prospects of a really cool mame/shohin.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

They will get some spreading and flattening when I repot next year for sure. I didnt do any root work on this tree this year.... just ran out of time. This tree is a priority next season for root work.

Yeah, lots of good low buds. I honestly dont like the low right branch much as a keeper, but it will help thicken the trunk a bit so Ill leave it.

 

[0soyoung]

I honestly dont like the low right branch much as a keeper, but it will help thicken the trunk a bit so Ill leave it.

Hmmm The trouble is that the better job it does at that, the bigger the scar when you ultimately lop it off.
No matter, have fun with it. I sure enjoy seeing what you're up to.