Re-graft feeder roots?

[Cypress187]

Is it possible to cut a long tap-root (or a transport/support-root) with feeder-roots on the end, and re-graft it to itself (only shorter ofcourse without the long laggy root we don't need). Some tree's have long transport/tap-roots, but on the end have viable feeder-roots, i want to try to save the feeder roots by removing the laggy part and graft the rammified feeder roots part back on the cut root. Will/can this speed up the root development and thus the whole tree, or will most of them fail and will i more likely kill the entire tree? Or will it do nothing spectacular and will i waste time for almost nothing?

 

[Adair M]

Look into "root grafts". Usually the technique involves using seedlings and approach grafting them where you want them.

 

[Cypress187]

Look into "root grafts". Usually the technique involves using seedlings and approach grafting them where you want them.

Yeah, but i don't want to propagate the (root)cuttings, i just want to graft them back on the cut root straight away.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Your suggested technique is likely to fail to achieve your desired result. However, Adair's suggestion of root-grafting seedlings will achieve your desired result. Here is a post on the technique:

https://nebaribonsai.wordpress.com/2013/03/23/thread-grafting-a-chishio-japanese-maple/

 

[GrimLore]

Some tree's have long transport/tap-roots

Just cut the tap to the desired length. It is more likely to toss out new feeder roots. I doubt grafting it to itself will work but cutting it may produce what you want.

Grimmy

 

[aml1014]

I have a feeling that the root you are trying to graft would rot before anything happened, I'd agree with @GrimLore and just cut the tap, it should produce new roots if the tree is in good soil.

 

[sorce]

Whole lot of unknowns!

Just saying.....

Sorce

 

[GrimLore]

Whole lot of unknowns!

Just saying.....

Nope The three arrows in this picture show were new feeder roots have grown since I cut off 6 inches or more of the tap/anchor that had lots of feeders. This sat in water under a grow light until just now. The reason is I waited to see that growth before putting it in soil today By Spring it should have dense feeders at this rate.



Grimmy

 

[sorce]

Nope The three arrows in this picture show were new feeder roots have grown since I cut off 6 inches or more of the tap/anchor that had lots of feeders. This sat in water under a grow light until just now. The reason is I waited to see that growth before putting it in soil today By Spring it should have dense feeders at this rate.

View attachment 89538

Grimmy

I'm with you there!

However....

Tree type?
Age?
Size?

And the killer....

Is it an Old Pine with it's only feeders coming from tap said to be cut?

@Cypress187
?

Sorce

 

[Adair M]

Nope The three arrows in this picture show were new feeder roots have grown since I cut off 6 inches or more of the tap/anchor that had lots of feeders. This sat in water under a grow light until just now. The reason is I waited to see that growth before putting it in soil today By Spring it should have dense feeders at this rate.

View attachment 89538

Grimmy

Grimmy, what is the point of keeping the last inch or inch and a half of that heavy root with the bend in it?

Seems to me, the place to cut off, flat is just before the bend, where all the small roots are attached. Spread those out radially to start a base with good nebari.

 

[0soyoung]

Is it possible to cut a long tap-root (or a transport/support-root) with feeder-roots on the end, and re-graft it to itself

I don't see why one cannot make the root analog of a cleft or side graft with roots. The requirements would be the same (careful alignment of the cambium, etc.), but desiccation should not be a concern. We do this kind of grafting on the upper parts of the tree to improve its appearance. We do approach grafts with seedlings for similar reasons, including nebari improvement. Why one would need to graft roots that won't be seen is difficult to understand.

 

[sorce]

Of the unknown scenario.....

One could be.....

This is a tree you could quarter the tap like a banana and pull em out flat as part of the nebari.....

Or it could still be an old pine with no other feeders.

Sorce

 

[GrimLore]

Tree type?
Age?
Size?

Mimosa Tree (Albizia julibrissin)
Popped up in the landscape Spring 2015
Tiny 8 inches tall tops

Grimmy, what is the point of keeping the last inch or inch and a half of that heavy root with the bend in it?

This is the tiniest of several that have shown up here in the 2 years we have this property. There are some worth collecting but I took out the smallest as an experiment. The reason is that in this area some plants will never take after collection so I try small varieties that I am interested in before possibly wrecking otherwise nice trees. Never had this variety before so I was over cautious but have learned I can do as you said so far...

Grimmy

 

[sorce]

Mimosa Tree (Albizia julibrissin)
Popped up in the landscape Spring 2015
Tiny 8 inches tall tops

I forgot it been 12 o'clock there for 2 hours already! Lol!

I'm talking about Cypress' tree!

But he's smoking so I know where this thread is going!

I'm going back to the Toilet paper roll dream thread!


Sorce

 

[Adair M]

Cypress,

JohnG has a thread going where he documents the root thread grafting technique very well.

 

[Cypress187]

I'm with you there!However.... Tree type?Age?Size? And the killer....Is it an Old Pine with it's only feeders coming from tap said to be cut?
@Cypress187 ?Sorce

I have repotted some of my tree's last year and some had long roots which i had to cut, but in my understanding tree's grow better with more roots. So in combination with collected tree's with roots in the wrong places i was thinking i could combine this and thus i came up with this awesome idea But maybe it isn't as easy as i thought. What if the root is wedged in, seal it with cut paste and wrap raffia around it (so it wont rot)?

What I will do is I will first just propagate some of my tree so i have more material to practise with (the normal way first). But you guys are free to try this idea out I will try it later when im more experienced.

 

[GrimLore]

I have repotted some of my tree's last year and some had long roots which i had to cut, but in my understanding tree's grow better with more roots.

Over the years you will learn that it varies greatly with different plants. Many can and do quite well with little root at collection, others like most Junipers require as much root as you can get to do well and even then many do not make it. You will also learn that when you reduce most plants that are healthy and potted it is very good to reduce the root mass on most trees. Plants are specific when it comes to such things and over time with experimentation and solid advice from people that know from experience you will know and understand as many as you can handle

Here is an example of a rather drastic reduction to most people but worked quite well with this Azalea - That saw is 24 inches or so for reference.


In this picture you can see the taproot is as wide as my foot and I reduced the overall depth of the roots to just under 3 inches -



Top view in a 16 1/2 inch wide training pot where it will remain and receive repeated torture for a few years -



This Azalea did fine and back budded well and is now resting for Winter. Try that with a Juniper and it would most likely die. On a Maple you could get away with even more reduction and still have a healthy tree where I live...

Grimmy

 

[Cypress187]