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It is often said one should do work on a juniper when they are dry.
Meaning, have not been watered in a little while. The logic behind this reasoning is the following... when a tree is dry, it's cambium layer is less likely to separate from the heartwood or pith... the center part of a branch or trunk, the part that gives the branch or trunk structure, where one often is able to count rings.
Now, this makes sense... however, for me, what I have found through doing endless amounts of bending and perhaps this has a lot to do with my climate... is that what usually ends up happening when working on material that is dry, is that the pith or heartwood, ends up breaking more violently than that of material that is not dry, and thus is more likely to cause separation of the cambium layer and loss, do to the sudden act of it snapping.
I will give you an example... if one picks up a twig off of a forest floor, and tries to break it in half. What they will normally find is that a dry twig will easily snap... a green or wet twig will not, and in fact one needs to often pull it in varying directions just to try a tear the branch apart. Seeing that the cambium layer usually will easily peel, it is not this that is holding the branch together, but the structure of the twig, the pith or hardwood.
Let me step back for a minute and explain what actually happens when a bend is preformed. In a bend, the cambium layer is soft and pliable it easily does the bend. The structure, the pith or heartwood, is not... What happens in a bend of any significant degree, the pith or heartwood, actually splits and separates, usually right down the middle, in the opposite direction of the bend... so if one is bending a branch down... the split will occur on the side of the branch, and will run parallel along the length of the branch. The center of the pith is the hardest, and thus the most fragile when it comes to being flexible. Thus why this is the first place to break.
In doing a bend of any degree, this is what one wants to happen... we want and need the split to happen, in order for us to set the branch. Easiest way to visualize, is if one thinks about, or has ever had the misfortune of breaking a bone and having to have it reset. We are in essence breaking the bone of the tree in the process of bending and holding the branch in place until it resets.
Why do we want this to happen?
Let, me say that it happens regardless of whether or not we want it to in a bend of any degree, it is just that if done right, the cambium layer is not disturbed, and from all appearances it appears to not of happened, cause we cannot see inside the branch.
So, really the question should be... How does this split help in what we are trying to perform? It helps, because the split in the pith allows the two parts to more easily slide over one another to make the bend. The two pieces, no longer have the strength they did, seeing that the hardest part, the very center, now has been see rated into two.
On a very old branch or heavy one, that one wants to do an extreme bend in... one will often go ahead and actually induce this split with your branch splitter, to make the separation. Giving the branch more pliability and to help prevent that of the alternative, a violent break. With this procedure one is in essence doing a controlled break. Allowing for better control over how and what damage is done in the process.
With a procedure such as this, I think it needs to be said, that careful planing should be considered in doing it... especially in regards to direction one make a split... Very Important! If one wants to induce a split, consider the direction one wants to bend. If you want to bend down or up, you must split on the side of the branch, or horizontal... If one wants to bend side to side, the split should occur from top to bottom, or vertical. Reason? You want the split to slide over each other and stay together, not the alternative, the split opening up. This will allow for the cambium layers to align, heal up and the eventual healing of the wound. Enough, about that! Just felt it was the responsible thing to go into some important details so as to not have folks possibly trying a technique such as this, and ending up with an abomination.
So, back to bending...
This is why we use wire, raffia, etc. If the pith or heartwood, splits naturally when bent, we want to control the outer section of the pith that has separated, and that has to make the longest journey to do the bend, to actually be supported, as to not completely break and separate coming through the cambium layer, but instead tear along itself length wise.
Often where this fails is through lack of this support... which occurs in a number of ways.
Them being no support at all, lack of sufficient support as in the support was not strong enough to do the job of holding, the support was put on inefficient as in to loose of wire or raffia, or the actual bend was done in a spot where the support was the least strongest.... which nine times out of ten is the case. Where the bend was performed in a spot where the wire that was put on to actually support, ended up being wrapped on the inside of the bend and not the outside, which had the farthest journey to make to complete the bend.
What to do if a break occurs? Often just because this happens, does not mean all is lost. Secure the branch in place with further wire, so the effected area can remain un-moved and have time to heal, and add some cut paste or covering to allow the area not to dry out.
Lastly, I wanted to go back to the beginning of this thread and speak about Cambium layer separation from the pith or heartwood. .. where this 9 times out of ten occurs is when one bends in one direction, then decides to bend the same area in the other direction... I know it is hard, trying to visualize where one needs to place a branch or trunk, especially if one is newer to doing bends, but one needs to try and visualize as best as possible where they want to go with something, before going with something... If you are having a hard time doing so, get out a piece of paper and draw what you would like to see. Erase if you have to...
The logic or lack of logic, which ever you prefer, that I have expressed here was stated with the notion of working on Junipers... obviously, it goes as well with any type of material.
Meaning, have not been watered in a little while. The logic behind this reasoning is the following... when a tree is dry, it's cambium layer is less likely to separate from the heartwood or pith... the center part of a branch or trunk, the part that gives the branch or trunk structure, where one often is able to count rings.
Now, this makes sense... however, for me, what I have found through doing endless amounts of bending and perhaps this has a lot to do with my climate... is that what usually ends up happening when working on material that is dry, is that the pith or heartwood, ends up breaking more violently than that of material that is not dry, and thus is more likely to cause separation of the cambium layer and loss, do to the sudden act of it snapping.
I will give you an example... if one picks up a twig off of a forest floor, and tries to break it in half. What they will normally find is that a dry twig will easily snap... a green or wet twig will not, and in fact one needs to often pull it in varying directions just to try a tear the branch apart. Seeing that the cambium layer usually will easily peel, it is not this that is holding the branch together, but the structure of the twig, the pith or hardwood.
Let me step back for a minute and explain what actually happens when a bend is preformed. In a bend, the cambium layer is soft and pliable it easily does the bend. The structure, the pith or heartwood, is not... What happens in a bend of any significant degree, the pith or heartwood, actually splits and separates, usually right down the middle, in the opposite direction of the bend... so if one is bending a branch down... the split will occur on the side of the branch, and will run parallel along the length of the branch. The center of the pith is the hardest, and thus the most fragile when it comes to being flexible. Thus why this is the first place to break.
In doing a bend of any degree, this is what one wants to happen... we want and need the split to happen, in order for us to set the branch. Easiest way to visualize, is if one thinks about, or has ever had the misfortune of breaking a bone and having to have it reset. We are in essence breaking the bone of the tree in the process of bending and holding the branch in place until it resets.
Why do we want this to happen?
Let, me say that it happens regardless of whether or not we want it to in a bend of any degree, it is just that if done right, the cambium layer is not disturbed, and from all appearances it appears to not of happened, cause we cannot see inside the branch.
So, really the question should be... How does this split help in what we are trying to perform? It helps, because the split in the pith allows the two parts to more easily slide over one another to make the bend. The two pieces, no longer have the strength they did, seeing that the hardest part, the very center, now has been see rated into two.
On a very old branch or heavy one, that one wants to do an extreme bend in... one will often go ahead and actually induce this split with your branch splitter, to make the separation. Giving the branch more pliability and to help prevent that of the alternative, a violent break. With this procedure one is in essence doing a controlled break. Allowing for better control over how and what damage is done in the process.
With a procedure such as this, I think it needs to be said, that careful planing should be considered in doing it... especially in regards to direction one make a split... Very Important! If one wants to induce a split, consider the direction one wants to bend. If you want to bend down or up, you must split on the side of the branch, or horizontal... If one wants to bend side to side, the split should occur from top to bottom, or vertical. Reason? You want the split to slide over each other and stay together, not the alternative, the split opening up. This will allow for the cambium layers to align, heal up and the eventual healing of the wound. Enough, about that! Just felt it was the responsible thing to go into some important details so as to not have folks possibly trying a technique such as this, and ending up with an abomination.
So, back to bending...
This is why we use wire, raffia, etc. If the pith or heartwood, splits naturally when bent, we want to control the outer section of the pith that has separated, and that has to make the longest journey to do the bend, to actually be supported, as to not completely break and separate coming through the cambium layer, but instead tear along itself length wise.
Often where this fails is through lack of this support... which occurs in a number of ways.
Them being no support at all, lack of sufficient support as in the support was not strong enough to do the job of holding, the support was put on inefficient as in to loose of wire or raffia, or the actual bend was done in a spot where the support was the least strongest.... which nine times out of ten is the case. Where the bend was performed in a spot where the wire that was put on to actually support, ended up being wrapped on the inside of the bend and not the outside, which had the farthest journey to make to complete the bend.
What to do if a break occurs? Often just because this happens, does not mean all is lost. Secure the branch in place with further wire, so the effected area can remain un-moved and have time to heal, and add some cut paste or covering to allow the area not to dry out.
Lastly, I wanted to go back to the beginning of this thread and speak about Cambium layer separation from the pith or heartwood. .. where this 9 times out of ten occurs is when one bends in one direction, then decides to bend the same area in the other direction... I know it is hard, trying to visualize where one needs to place a branch or trunk, especially if one is newer to doing bends, but one needs to try and visualize as best as possible where they want to go with something, before going with something... If you are having a hard time doing so, get out a piece of paper and draw what you would like to see. Erase if you have to...
The logic or lack of logic, which ever you prefer, that I have expressed here was stated with the notion of working on Junipers... obviously, it goes as well with any type of material.