Pruning maples flush or leave a stub

[snox]

Looking to prune some branches 5-10mm on my maples that are in development stages and see some cut flush and others leave a stub . is a flush cut more risky regards die back ? Hence why some will leave a little stub to die back ?
Keen to hear what folk do regarding this .

 

[roberthu]

Always leave a sub to allow the collar to form. Then go back and clean up the wound and patch up for further healing.
Cut flash doesn't always result in die back. But the change increases tremendously.
for 10mm think branches, I would stage the cuts and leave some leave a leaves to drive water transportation and cut back again in the fall to avoid sudden shut and cause die back.

 

[snox]

Makes sense and will follow your advice . Thanks .

 

[zita]

i changed to cut flush, actually completely flush, no wound paste, only in summer and then expose the wound to sun.

 

[yenling83]

Generally speaking, with really small cuts you can cut flush or concave, while larger cuts you'll want to leave some length, respecting and allowing the tree to die back to the branch collar, then coming back and re-addressing the cut once the branch has died back.

 

[zita]

in case of removing entire branches you will have strong backbudding out of this little stump rather than on the trunk where you want it to help healing and of course for the tree itself.

 

[snox]

Generally speaking, with really small cuts you can cut flush or concave, while larger cuts you'll want to leave some length, respecting and allowing the tree to die back to the branch collar, then coming back and re-addressing the cut once the branch has died back

Appreciate the info mate . Have gone with what you suggested and left a stub .

 

[Bonsai Nut]

in case of removing entire branches you will have strong backbudding out of this little stump rather than on the trunk where you want it to help healing and of course for the tree itself.

You won't get back-budding on a maple branch where there isn't a node. So just to clarify, I would recommend cutting the branch past the last node, leaving a stump, and sealing the wound. I seal all trunk and primary branch wounds on Japanese maples. I'm not sure it is always required but given how cheap cut paste is - and how expensive Japanese maple stock is - why risk it?

 

[zita]

So just to clarify, I would recommend cutting the branch past the last node, leaving a stump, and sealing the wound. I seal all trunk and primary branch wounds on Japanese maples.

i do not recommend against this, i am just not sure wheater it is an extra round for nothing. The tree has to handle the stump.

I'm not sure it is always required but given how cheap cut paste is - and how expensive Japanese maple stock is - why risk it?

well, what risk do you mean?
i think the main factors of removing branches is to do it in the summer and on more or less healthy trees.
then it will never ever loose life.
the other risk is how the scars will do.
The thing here is that very peronally i am open to any outcome. (scars do thicken the trunk and give another taper)
if someone wants to have an outcome that is predictable, it probably needs a different aproach then what i do.

why i am cutting flush is also because i do not like to look at stumps.

 

[Paradox]

well, what risk do you mean?

Risk of disease getting into the cut.
Keeping it covered so it doesn't dry out and impede healing

 

[zita]

the process of beeing covered damp to death will activate i dont know what.
a lump of dying back stuff.

 

[Bonsai Nut]

well, what risk do you mean?

If you don't not seal the cut, Japanese maples are prone to fungal infections that get into the sapwood.

Additionally a large wound site can dry out and get larger before the tree is able to compartmentalize the injury. You can get die-back that starts down the side of the trunk... in some cases running all the way down to the roots.

 

[zita]

a large wound site can dry out and get larger before the tree is able to compartmentalize the injury

yes, the stump will give the tree time.
i do not know, so let me ask: when you remove the stump later on, flush, doesnt the whole game starts again? Is the problem then smaller, because less sap is flowing?
i mean, size of the wound will be the same whether you cut it in first place or after the stump has relaxed.

 

[nuttiest]

If you cut back to lignified area then it will not section off that area, but where the wood is young (bendable) it will work to section it off no matter the sterilization.
If you are creeped out by moist areas with wound use a dry dressing like limestone powder or bentonite clay mixed with a fungicide and dab with paintbrush. It dries, and stays on just long enough to heal/ keep pests out..

 

[River's Edge]

yes, the stump will give the tree time.
i do not know, so let me ask: when you remove the stump later on, flush, doesnt the whole game starts again? Is the problem then smaller, because less sap is flowing?
i mean, size of the wound will be the same whether you cut it in first place or after the stump has relaxed.

Minimizing sap flow is important. Thus major structural pruning is usually combined with repotting at the end of winter. With the root work completed first. Maintenance and refinement pruning can be accomplished within the growing season. Staging the cut by leaving a stub is often chosen when additional back budding is desired closer to the trunk but can also be used to soften the " sap loss". As others have mentioned sealing cuts and disinfecting tools are important steps with maples.
Several smaller steps to complete a large one does not start the game over, rather it manages the risk incrementally.

 

[zita]

Several smaller steps to complete a large one does not start the game over, rather it manages the risk incrementally.

thx, i keep it like this in mind.
That said, too late for the most part of my collection. Done is gone

As for fungi, i am not worried at all. I do belive in summer cutting and never had a problem this way. I had various problems cutting in colder temperatures, lets say with the more sensitive to pruning cultivars such as shishigashira.
Did use cutting paste a thousend of times and another thousend times without and find it to look good but slowing the process.