pruning in fall in warm zone

[nuttiest]

I know it's not the right time of year but I want to prune some things now that need to be pruned in spring but have too many branches, and I am worried about doing it all at once in spring.
What are the drawbacks if you live in a relatively freeze free zone, and the trees won't lose leaves until January? Can I consider it still summer?

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Imho pruning timing and techniques varies an awful lot by species, intent and stages of development.

Given the horticultural seasons for trees in your area area shifted compared to ours, one can readily alter their schedule accordingly.

As for pruning outside these guidelines, that will depend on each situation.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Bonsai Turtle]

I know it's not the right time of year but I want to prune some things now that need to be pruned in spring but have too many branches, and I am worried about doing it all at once in spring.
What are the drawbacks if you live in a relatively freeze free zone, and the trees won't lose leaves until January? Can I consider it still summer?

Depends on the species. Your profile shows you are in Fl and zone 10, so I assume you are in Orlando or below. You could prune most tropicals right now without a problem (assuming they are healthy), but deciduous trees are currently accumulating the last of the reserves they'll need for dormancy so I would suggest waiting.

 

[nuttiest]

, intent and stages of development.

I am struggling with defining that on a couple. First are fruit trees I ordered bare root in spring, here is the most confusing - a pomegranate that all the lower branches are getting larger than the (see where tag attached) original tree. I feel like I need to redirect energy back into the main stem.


What do you think on this one? I can't find the graft either.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

It seems Pomegranates are naturally shrub form and are basally dominant. Yet some cultivars can fairly easily be made into tree forms.

Sort of similar to azalea cultivars, but more so.

Looks like the example shown is a cultivar that especially wants to grow basally.

The nursery direction on pruning this species is to prune while dormant. Some adid especially when all danger is of frost is past.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Shibui]

In zone 10 I would prune whenever required. You have no need to worry about 'frost free' timing.
Down here, where we probably get a little more 'winter', I have no problem pruning at the start of winter. Occasionally, an earlier prune will start some new growth but those new shoots just persist through winter with no real adverse affect. The growth cycles return to normal in spring.

 

[Cajunrider]

I am struggling with defining that on a couple. First are fruit trees I ordered bare root in spring, here is the most confusing - a pomegranate that all the lower branches are getting larger than the (see where tag attached) original tree. I feel like I need to redirect energy back into the main stem.
View attachment 573285

What do you think on this one? I can't find the graft either.

For my pomegranates, I try to prune early to force the main stem to grow big. However, I've found that, once a new stem took over the growth, the main stem regresses and I could never bring it back to growing big again. I have tried complete prune of the new growth to force the growth back to the main stem. That didn't work. The tree promptly sports a new quick growth stem. Nowadays I simply promote that new stem to be the main trunk instead. I do that by pruning off the old main stem and cut the tips off all other side branches to force the growth to the newly selected main stem.

I think in zone 10, you can prune any time of the year as needed.

 

[nuttiest]

However, I've found that, once a new stem took over the growth, the main stem regresses and I could never bring it back to growing big again.

Wow, that's what it looks like, it just wants to die to let the others grow. That could be a symptom of stem wilt, I better check that instead.

 

[nuttiest]

I checked it out and there is nothing unusual on the main stem. Going to cut all sprouts back to collars which are really thick, hopefully the trunk will not be too ugly. I do not like this growth habit, it's doesn't appear conducive to forming a trunk, but we will see.

 

[Shibui]

I've found that, once a new stem took over the growth, the main stem regresses and I could never bring it back to growing big again.

I do not like this growth habit, it's doesn't appear conducive to forming a trunk, but we will see.

FWIW I've had the same experience with a few different shrubby species. Frustrating trying to develop strong, thick trunks.

 

[leatherback]

I think people overthink "when to prune" for most trees. I prune my trees throughout the year.
Main think to keep in mind is that removing branches flush with the main trunk during dormancy can result in die-back along the trunk in many sensitive species. But besides that, if you leave a stub you can easily prune throughout winter.

I have lots of time around christmas, so that is the time most of the maintenance on my trees is done.

 

[nuttiest]

Okay, all good stuff. Compound question - if I let some trees grow too much and the whole canopy needs to be lowered back to the primary branches, is it best to leave a couple so there is green? Or does that somewhat prevent total back budding in your opinion?
Either way, I definitely need to loosen up on the spring only thing here. That happened since I started reading the forum regularly, but I question the process on true tropicals as they respond to a trunk chop with a bulbous formation that turns into reverse taper. I get that a lot have a green stem that means they are photosynthesizing despite no top, but it is to the point I want to cover the stem for a month. I think with the tropicals I will follow the rule of heavy pruning is best done at flowering time when hormones are peak, which would be early summer for a few.