Project Shimpaku

buddhamonk

Chumono
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Ptown oregon
This is a recently acquired shimpaku. Quite old with well developed branching. Lots of ramification from years of training...but things are about to change...

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Here's what came off halfway through. Took off several other main branches after those came off :cool:

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to be continued...
 
This definitely has some nice potential. Just be sure not to remove more than about 25% of the foliage, or you could severely weaken the tree.
 
..... and then? .....and then? ..... and then, and then, and then????
 
Plot twist, the shimp backbudded alien limbs with motor skills and a thirst for blood. In retaliation, it cut off buddhamonk's arms and he's no longer able to type in this thread.

Directed by M. Knight Shyamalan.
 
This definitely has some nice potential. Just be sure not to remove more than about 25% of the foliage, or you could severely weaken the tree.

All due respects but that has not been my experience with them at all. I have removed upwards of 75% and had no problems.
 
All due respects but that has not been my experience with them at all. I have removed upwards of 75% and had no problems.

I've heard different rules about this from so many different people that it's become confusing. I'm so curious about it.

I've heard that because the strength of Junipers is in the foliage, no more than 50% at one time. I've heard that if you reduced the foliage you were obligated to reduce the root mass so that the roots don't rot.
And of course there are demos wherein the tree is wired, pruned, reduced, potted, sold, and kissed goodbye!

Think different species have different rules? Climate? Aftercare?
 
Sorry been busy with work and getting home too late to work on the tree. Basically removed most of the lower branches, leaving a few up top which I'll wire this weekend and shape into a bunjin style tree.

I have to agree with Vance in saying shimpakus tolerate removal of a lot of foliage (> 75%). I typically style in the winter and report the following spring. Shimpakus respond with a ton of new growth. Part of it may be the NW climate but I think it's just the species. I've never once gotten juvenile growth on Shimpakus either.
 
All due respects but that has not been my experience with them at all. I have removed upwards of 75% and had no problems.

Vance, I have also removed well over half of a juniper's foliage with no problems, but only during active growth. When I have removed more than 25-30% of a junipers foliage during dormancy, my trees have severely weakened. Some of them limped along for 2-3 years before recovering, while others died the following summer.

Perhaps this is due to differences in climate, as buddhamonk suggested, or maybe my aftercare was inadequate. I think I'll start another thread to see what experiences others in the deep south have had. Maybe I can learn something.
 
Here's a quick update from today...

I chose this front. This is after removing all the lower branches

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Here's the back

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The new "first" branch was old and rigid. Had to use guide wire to pull it down. Jinned the stubs but not sure if they'll stay. Mostly keeping them to use as anchor for now.

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After wiring the lower branches

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To be continued... (will probably finish wiring the rest of the tree tomorrow if it rains all day like today.
 
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I've heard different rules about this from so many different people that it's become confusing. I'm so curious about it.

I've heard that because the strength of Junipers is in the foliage, no more than 50% at one time. I've heard that if you reduced the foliage you were obligated to reduce the root mass so that the roots don't rot.
And of course there are demos wherein the tree is wired, pruned, reduced, potted, sold, and kissed goodbye!

Think different species have different rules? Climate? Aftercare?

For myself I no longer cultivate any Juniper species other than the Shimpaku. I have done all of the above to a Shimpaku all at the same time and had them do quite well. I cannot say this will be your experience with other Junipers. As far as after care. Even Kimura says to place them in full sun after repotting. I have found this works fine. However if the tree starts to look like it is stressed moving it into partial shade will help it out. After major work you have to be careful about watering. The roots don't rot if you don't let them sit in water. Once they become active then you can increase the water. It will take a Shimpaku about two seasons to balance out everything after major root work.
 
This is a huge improvement already! Can't wait to see the crown wired.... (hope it rains again!)
:D
 
Good vision, and bold moves. Its already better, eager to see it wired out!
Thanks for posting.
 
Sorry been busy with work and getting home too late to work on the tree. Basically removed most of the lower branches, leaving a few up top which I'll wire this weekend and shape into a bunjin style tree.

I have to agree with Vance in saying shimpakus tolerate removal of a lot of foliage (> 75%). I typically style in the winter and report the following spring. Shimpakus respond with a ton of new growth. Part of it may be the NW climate but I think it's just the species. I've never once gotten juvenile growth on Shimpakus either.

I did once, it lasted about two weeks and reverted. It was a response to a massive red spider infestation that almost took the tree. I discovered the problem after returning from a two month trip out west.
 
Raining quite a bit outside so unable to take good pictures but I finished the rough first styling. Will refine next year...

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