I can change it if you want.
Lol. I think I might be dumbing myself down here...but dad used to say to “always be teachable”. I definitely read what you linked a few years back when I was first turning all of my attention to the trees... after saying all of that, I have no idea what NoBam means LolI'm going to find out when I get a hold of some of that Toad Smoke.
Till then, deep as Mushrooms allow.
I suggest devouring this information in its entirety, them moving on to this.
This stuff is all there. That site is what everyone needs to learn, the perfect primer for everything important. It will never be organized better.
It all makes sense after reading that.
And.....I put NoBAM in your Profile.
Sorce
Ohh!! North Bam?
Thanks, Sorce, NoBam will do just fine
Ramma Jamma
Socks, sandals, hoodie, jammies
I'm guessing that your May 1st is my June 21st. This is leaf reduction therapy time. After the leaves have been out long enough for them to mature and also have visible buds in the axils ready to leaf out. It will take about 3 weeks for a new canopy, and longer to fully mature. You remove all the leaves and make sure you remove all the tips, which are the primary buds, or else there will be very little back-budding. When you remove the primary buds the secondary buds further down the twig become primaries and grow vigorously. Some tertiary buds closer to the trunk become secondaries and grow, too. That is back-budding. Since the tree hasn't replenished the roots entirely the new leaves are smaller. You don't have to do this every year, just when you need to make the leaves smaller. Another part of the principle is you are forcing the plant to divide it's stored resources by more buds than it normally would have: 100% resources divided by 125% of the normal amount of buds equals leaves at 80% normal size, or smaller if the tree is low on resources. Removing the tips always gets some back-budding, but removing just a couple here and there doesn't necessarily get back-budding on those particular stems. The response is to switch on some secondaries that are coincidentally ready at that time somewhere on the tree. Doing just part of the tree doesn't really work.
Any plant you have growing in a pot for more than a year (this is even more important when growing in small bonsai trays and pots) should have a soil mix that has little to no fine particles under .100 (slightly under 1/8 inch). Using this type of soil will allow you to water properly (saturate the surface once sometimes twice daily) and if all other conditions are favorable, ie sunlight, correct fertilizing regimen, will allow your plant to grow as close to it's genetic potential as possible. This may sound difficult but once understood, could not be more simple. Soil components are ridiculously subjective in every horticultural faction where containerized plants are concerned. What's important to the plant/tree(s) is that your soil is made up of correct particle sizes and will retain it's structure until your next repot. The ingredients must meet this criteria. If you want your tree to grow fast and be as healthy as it possibly can: potting soil or sphagnum peat moss, coconut coir, sand, garden soil, all alone or as a fraction of a mix, are unsuitable soil components. I have tried everything, however I can easily obtain and personally use a 111 mix of Turface MVP which holds a significant amount of water internally (from Ewing), Manapro chicken grit which holds no water internally (from Tractor Supply), and Reptibark fir bark which holds about half as much water as turface (from Petco or PetSmart). For everything I grow (not just trees) I usually start with that basic mix. I add more Turface and/or granite for conifers and possibly add Turface for some deciduous , I always keep the bark portion at no more than 1/3 of the mix. In answering your question, choose something similar.
Okay. That’s a good place to start. Now select “Account Details”. You should arrive at the information input location. Give it a try.
Fantastic! Ha!It has been so much more tame lately, since some folks fleed to FakeBook and Their Own Blogs....ahem....but it's still mildly insane!
Welcome To Crazy!
Ha! Took Poink. I'll hit 10,000 by the end of summer, or maybe the week! I just want to say thank you to everyone here. For keeping me entertained better than the TV! For sharing knowledge. Successes. And failures! We are becoming more and more Global, with folks popping up from every little...www.bonsainut.com
Sorce
People who keep trees in pots, who fight about what rocks/dirt to put them in, what to feed them, what wire to use, etc, etc, etc...........................
You know how I hate to be picky, but not only do I not observe the above formula for soil, I do the opposite. I never allow any mineral components larger than a grain of sand. 50% by volume of the mix is composted pine bark, most of which are fines. It is a moisture retaining mix that suits me and my watering habits and my local rain & humidity patterns. Everybody needs to customize their soil to their situation. Flat statements belong in the Flat Earth Society, not for bonsai people in too many different climates to count and with too many personal habits, and agendas to list.
Absolutely. I live on Vancouver Island, BC, Canada, and I've been told not to use any organic mixture because of all the rain. But I live in the capital city of Victoria (southern tip of the island), which is actually in a rain shadow of the US Olympic and Vancouver North Shore mountains, so we get 55% less rain as Vancouver and about 35% less than Seattle, contrary to what people think, and we actually get droughts during the growing season. I need some water retention.
