Pear tree (Pyrus Communis)

mrt

Sapling
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Hi all,
I was recently in a bonsai shop near me (actually the only one, but it is quite a large one). Besides actual bonsai, they also sell what they call "prebonsai" and just small trees which probably could be made into a bonsai.
I looked around and found this small pear tree. I know pear is a bit uncommon for bonsai, but I have a book in which a lot of local species are discussed and among them is also the pear tree.
I am more into very small trees, and because this tree was quite small, but still had some good branches, I decided to give it a try, also because it was not expensive at all.
I pruned the tree slightly and wanted to wire it, but I didn't have enough wire and because I am still new to bonsai and want to try out different things, I decided to try it with strings. I have seen this in some books and it seems like it works. With the strings, I pulled a couple branches down quite a bit, because originally, the tree hat them almost entirely upright. So I corrected that. Also, I shorted the branches a bit.
I know this tree is not good yet, and still very young, but what would you think about it? I quite like its shape, and I am very curious whether it will bloom soon. Of course there is still a lot to do, for instance at the root base. But besides that, what would you think, good starting material? unfortunately, I have not taken a picture before installing the strings. As I said, the branches were quite straight upright, and I bent them down quite a bit.
I live on the countryside and there are lots of old apple and pear trees near my place and I studied them a bit. The pears are almost always taller than wide, a good example is this tree


(however this is not one that is close to where I live).
I know this tree is still very young, but in my opinion it doesn't look too bad and the trunk looks smaller than it is, actually it is around 2cm in diameter and the height of the tree is around 25cm. I think the tree needs to become less tall but should improve the ramification.
I will keep it in this pot for now, probably for 1 to 2 years I guess. Should I prune more to encourage branching, should I defoliate in summer? (from last autumn I found some leftover leaves that were in the pot. It appears this tree has a quite good leaf size, the length of the leaves should be around 1.5cm and 1cm wide, so surprisingly small!).

I am curious about the comments I get for this. Don't be too strict with me, I am still beginner :D:D
 

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Welcome to crazy . Nice tree you should put your location in your bio . To help get better advice with your climate considered . First concern would be is it in quality bonsai soil . If your new to bonsai just let it grow . Learn how to take care of its needs . . All prunes like sun . Buy just letting it grow it will gain strength and vigorous growth establish a strong root system . Consider things like the small branches near the middle . That you can use I. The future to replace the apex . After it has done some work for you increasing the trunk size . Prunus are prone to pests and disease . Do some study so you have a system to deal with them . Nothing wrong with using string to tie down the branches . Concentrate on kerning to grow it well . Keep a eye to the future large branches can be used to grow know and be replaced in the future . Have fun
 
Hi,

thanks for your comments!

@Frozentreehugger
You mentioned replacing the apex. Do I need to do that, do you think the apex is not good?
I like that this little tree has many branches, but I think it could be improved even more, there should be more smaller branches. I am currently not yet sure how I achieve that.
I am quite new to bonsai, so I don't have loads of experience yet, but should I defoliate the tree in summer to encourage more smaller branches?

Would you suggest doing something with the branches or with the trunk, i.e. more wiring or more strings, or trying to make the trunk into a different shape (maybe I can wire the trunk with really big wires?). In my opinion, this is indeed the only disadvantage of this little tree: the trunk is very straight and upright, probably it would be better if the trunk would have some curvature or something, but I am unsure how I should do that or whether it is acceptable if I keep the trunk straight.
 
You have a nice young tree a pre bonsai. Basically . You are new to the craft . If you do to much training and styling and reduction to the tree . It will not grow vigorously . Remain small and weak possible even die . You will be frustrated wanting to grow a bonsai . And struggling may even give up . This is common what I am suggesting is let the tree grow . Learn about bonsai and learn how to make the tree vigorous . And healthy a simple thing like how often to water . Sounds simple but can be difficult to master when the tree is more prepared . Training will be fun as you will be successful . There are things you can do now that will greatly help the. Future of the tree . You can use wire to add movement especially in the lower section of the tree . Before the first branch this is very hard to do latter . Then you let the tree grow idea is let it grow out then cut it back . Let it grow and cut it back . This is how you get the trunk to get fatter . First you build a trunk then you build a branch structure then fine twigs and leaves . Processes like defoliation are used to get smaller leaves and tighter ramification as a much latter step in the tree development . Used now you will slow down growth . Let it grow learn from it trim a branch back to learn how it responds . My comment about the apex is for latter . Keep small branches close to the trunk . Latter when it grows taller you cut of the top and train a new branch to be the leader . Grow and cut back . This is long proven fastest way to a bonsai and success . There are multiple techniques . Another way to get trunk movement is you can take your tree cut it off above the first branch and train the branch as a leader you now have a bend in the trunk without wire . But it is still to early you can do that latter let it grow . At beginning of next spring repot it into something flatter and larger spread the roots out . This will start the creation of a flared trunk base called nebari. Another illusion of age . When you trim it back you can attempt to grow the trimmed pieces into trees . There is a air layer technique that you can use to take the top off to make more trees . You could repot and l
Do the root thing now . But I think it’s best to let it grow and learn . And most important of all is have fun the last thing you want to do is trim it style it repot it it into a small bonsai pot . Recipe for failure . The majority of bonsai enthusiasts have all kinds of trees in large pots growing larger to develop into bonsai but will not be a finished bonsai for some time . By starting with a young plant you have complete control and can make great bonsai but it takes time
 
Hi!

Regarding the trunk as it is now, it's too cylindrical. There is nothing wrong about it, but most of the bonsai enthusiasts wouldn't like it. There are lots of standards about bonsai aesthetics that you'll learn to appreciate with time.
Try to follow on Instagram some bonsai experts, just to acquire the taste of fine trees.

About replacing the apex (again, nothing wrong with the actual apex) here's a video about how some bonsai trees are made. (It will take several years, so you must be patient and willing to commit)


And remember, you have to learn at what moment you should do the work, and when to let it just grow. (The tree will dictate it)

Above all, you must keep the tree in good health. That is your #1 priority. So forget about defoliating, pruning, etc... if the tree is not healthy and strong.

Try to find some books about bonsai, it will help you a lot.
 
Hi all,
thanks for your hints. I know I need to give it lots of time to grow, and it will not be done in one day!

@Juanmi
this is cool, I know the video you have posted, I have already seen it before :-) I hope I don't have to wait for 12 years for this little pear tree to become something nice 😅
Also I already have some books. I show here a photograph of a page about trees having a straight trunk.
I like the trees on the top left and right corners, and I believe with this tree I have here, I could make something like this, could I?
Or would you say with this tree it is not possible to make something that enthusiasts would call a bonsai, without chopping the whole trunk off as @Frozentreehugger suggests?
 

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Also I already have some books. I show here a photograph of a page about trees having a straight trunk.
I like the trees on the top left and right corners, and I believe with this tree I have here, I could make something like this, could I?
Or would you say with this tree it is not possible to make something that enthusiasts would call a bonsai, without chopping the whole trunk off as @Frozentreehugger suggests
Nice! You did the homework. You have a goal, that is more than most of the beginners. Now let's see how you can achieve it.

If you look the pictures of those marvelous trees, the trunk is thicker on the base and it gets thinner on the top. They are not exactly a straight cylinder. They have also some subtle movement.
That can only be achieved letting it grow and chopping repeatedly. In any case, if you want a thicker trunk you'll have to let it grow. But if you're happy with the size and form of your tree, and you want just to develop its ramification go for it. It's your tree, you should never try to please other people, do what makes you happy. This is an art and even if there are some guide lines or some established canon, there is a lot of room for expression.

It's just that maybe, a few years from now you might regret not letting it grow more, as your sensibility might evolve. But there is always time to let a tree grow.

Whatever you decide just make sure that you'll enjoy doing it.
 
Pear trees usually grow with that habit with straight trunk so the @mrt tree is a nice representation of the species
Thanks! this is very nice to read :-) I also believe that this style is probably appropriate, because from observation of some pear trees near my place I see that some of they do have this shape. So I guess I am on a good path :-D

Nice! You did the homework. You have a goal, that is more than most of the beginners. Now let's see how you can achieve it.

If you look the pictures of those marvelous trees, the trunk is thicker on the base and it gets thinner on the top. They are not exactly a straight cylinder. They have also some subtle movement.
That can only be achieved letting it grow and chopping repeatedly. In any case, if you want a thicker trunk you'll have to let it grow. But if you're happy with the size and form of your tree, and you want just to develop its ramification go for it. It's your tree, you should never try to please other people, do what makes you happy. This is an art and even if there are some guide lines or some established canon, there is a lot of room for expression.

It's just that maybe, a few years from now you might regret not letting it grow more, as your sensibility might evolve. But there is always time to let a tree grow.

Whatever you decide just make sure that you'll enjoy doing it.
Yes I think I have some sort of goal! And I totally agree about the trunk not being a straight cylinder.
And of course I would also like if my pear tree had a bit a thicker trunk. On the other hand, as far as I understand, this would mean I cannot do anything with the tree for the next 10..15 years? honestly, I am not sure whether I am enough patient for that 😅 But what I can do for now is keep the tree in its current pot (instead of putting it into a bonsai pot) and let it grow, but I think I should at least try to adjust the positions of the branches, as I already tried with the strings, right? how could I improve the ramification? for example the first branch on the right side is quite straight, I think it needs more ramification. When I compare it to the ones shown in the book it needs MUCH more, but in my opinion the general direction is acceptable to good.
 
And of course I would also like if my pear tree had a bit a thicker trunk. On the other hand, as far as I understand, this would mean I cannot do anything with the tree for the next 10..15 years? honestly, I am not sure whether I am enough patient for that 😅 But what I can do for now is keep the tree in its current pot (instead of putting it into a bonsai pot) and let it grow, but I think I should at least try to adjust the positions of the branches, as I already tried with the strings, right? how could I improve the ramification? for example the first branch on the right side is quite straight, I think it needs more ramification. When I compare it to the ones shown in the book it needs MUCH more, but in my opinion the general direction is acceptable to good.
No need to wait 10 years in my opinion you could already chop the trunk next year, let it grow again maybe 1 year or 2 and then chop again.
In order to do that you'd have to get rid of the current branches.
Your first step would be to thicken the trunk and build its structure.
Second step (once you have a good trunk) is selecting the branches you want to keep for your design.
Third step, forcing the fine ramification by constantly pruning during the growing season.
Trees tend to grow more vigorously on their apical buds in order to grow further and catch more light. When you prune the strongest grow, you balance the strength of the tree and that forces the back buds to grow. (So, more ramification)
 
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Thanks! this is very nice to read :) I also believe that this style is probably appropriate, because from observation of some pear trees near my place I see that some of they do have this shape. So I guess I am on a good path :-D


Yes I think I have some sort of goal! And I totally agree about the trunk not being a straight cylinder.
And of course I would also like if my pear tree had a bit a thicker trunk. On the other hand, as far as I understand, this would mean I cannot do anything with the tree for the next 10..15 years? honestly, I am not sure whether I am enough patient for that 😅 But what I can do for now is keep the tree in its current pot (instead of putting it into a bonsai pot) and let it grow, but I think I should at least try to adjust the positions of the branches, as I already tried with the strings, right? how could I improve the ramification? for example the first branch on the right side is quite straight, I think it needs more ramification. When I compare it to the ones shown in the book it needs MUCH more, but in my opinion the general direction is acceptable to good.
Glad to see you forming a plan 👍👍 you should continue to use this thread . In the future as a development thread . There is a lot of experience amongst B nuts. That can help you with your plan as you go keep us posted
I would not worry to much about the trunk length . You can always in the future air layer the whole tree to shorten the trunk . You will find that the style you have chosen us often created . With this technique . Your off to a great start .
 
Dear all,
as requested by Frozentreehugger, I continue to use this thread about my pear bonsai.
See the attached picture. I did not do much to the tree during the summer and just let it grow.
The only thing I did was to shorten the strings from time to time, to bring the branches further down. I am quite happy with the result. I am also happy that the tree grew nicely and produced a couple new branches.
I believe I should prune it soon, to encourage further branching and then try to use other strings on these branches too, to bring them to a more horizontal position.
As one can see, the pear has grown mainly on the very top branches, and they are almost vertical. I believe I should cut the tree down to almost half its size, but I am unsure when it is the right time - early winter, or spring, or summer.
 

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I've just plant some Chore Pear seeds from China . Hopefully I'll get one to grow and Bonsai it
 
Dear all,
as requested by Frozentreehugger, I continue to use this thread about my pear bonsai.
See the attached picture. I did not do much to the tree during the summer and just let it grow.
The only thing I did was to shorten the strings from time to time, to bring the branches further down. I am quite happy with the result. I am also happy that the tree grew nicely and produced a couple new branches.
I believe I should prune it soon, to encourage further branching and then try to use other strings on these branches too, to bring them to a more horizontal position.
As one can see, the pear has grown mainly on the very top branches, and they are almost vertical. I believe I should cut the tree down to almost half its size, but I am unsure when it is the right time - early winter, or spring, or summer.

Generally, early spring or middle summer are the best times for major pruning (chop is an unnecessarily brutal term). For shorter internodes, summer is best time for pruning. You still have not added any general location to your profile, which makes it impossible to give you best timing in summer for the chop. You must allow at least 8 to 12 weeks before your average first frost. Chop with less than 8 weeks of recovery time will require special winter care.

Just a vague region or state would be enough a clue to assist those trying to offer advice. I don't mention my town, but its clear what climate I live in.
 
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