(Over)watering question

[silvertab]

I was wondering if overwatering is a big concern when using a well-draining, (almost) fully inorganic soil (whether it's DE/Perlite/Pumice etc..). I see a lot of people saying they usually water their trees at least once a day, usually more on hot summer days, which is what I've been doing, but for some reason I suddenly got paranoid about overwatering...

I don't water my nursery tress (i.e. still in nursery pots/soil) that often, but what about tress in inorganic, well-draining soil mixes; is overwatering something I should really start being more conscious about?

 

[Clicio]

I was wondering if overwatering is a big concern when using a well-draining, (almost) fully inorganic soi

Shouldn't be a concern. IF the soil is really draining.

 

[Anthony]

Unfortunately Clicio,

when we tested inorganics that could hold water. You could
kill trees, with too much water.
There is no easy way out.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[Lorax7]

I was wondering if overwatering is a big concern when using a well-draining, (almost) fully inorganic soil (whether it's DE/Perlite/Pumice etc..). I see a lot of people saying they usually water their trees at least once a day, usually more on hot summer days, which is what I've been doing, but for some reason I suddenly got paranoid about overwatering...

I don't water my nursery tress (i.e. still in nursery pots/soil) that often, but what about tress in inorganic, well-draining soil mixes; is overwatering something I should really start being more conscious about?

I think its very unlikely to be a problem with perlite, pumice, lava rock, decomposed granite, etc. It’s worth thinking about a little bit with akadama, kanuma, turface. It definitely could be problem with DE, depending on what proportion DE makes up in your mix. If, for example, you were using only DE, with no other soil components, overwatering is something you have to be concerned about. DE holds a lot of water. If you’re mixing DE with pumice, perlite, lava rock, etc. where DE makes up a minority portion of the mix, the risk is much less.

 

[Clicio]

I think its very unlikely to be a problem with perlite, pumice, lava rock, decomposed granite, etc.

Yes, but both you and @Anthony are right; DE and other soil components that hold water can be a concern if the percentage of them in the mix is high.

 

[silvertab]

I think its very unlikely to be a problem with perlite, pumice, lava rock, decomposed granite, etc. It’s worth thinking about a little bit with akadama, kanuma, turface. It definitely could be problem with DE, depending on what proportion DE makes up in your mix. If, for example, you were using only DE, with no other soil components, overwatering is something you have to be concerned about. DE holds a lot of water. If you’re mixing DE with pumice, perlite, lava rock, etc. where DE makes up a minority portion of the mix, the risk is much less.

Makes sense I guess... right now I'm using a mix that's equal part perlite and DE, with a liiiiittle organic components in there (mostly pine parks). Considering DE makes up a good part of it, and pine barks definitely hold water, I'll try to me more conscious about my watering schedule... (in other words; Back to being paranoid about overwatering haha)

 

[WNC Bonsai]

Part of this issue may come down to the particle size distribution. Even inorganics can compact and form saturated layers if the fines are not sifted out or in the case of soft akadama if it turns to mush.

 

[RKatzin]

You really must consider the other factors creating the climate in the environment of your location. Wind, relative humidity, sun exposure, average temperatures and more, like latitude and the phase of the moon, will all effect both the trees needs and ability to utilize water, and the retentive ability of the substrate. Watch your trees and test your soil, either with a finger, quick check, up to the first knuckle. Hold it there about fifteen seconds to get a read, cool and moist or dry to the touch. Or, a chopstick for a more accurate reading. Stick it all the way to the bottom of the pot and leave it about fifteen minutes. Eyes on and go with the flow.

 

[RKatzin]

Part of this issue may come down to the particle size distribution. Even inorganics can compact and form saturated layers if the fines are not sifted out or in the case of soft akadama if it turns to mush.

This is right on! It is important to properly set up the substrate in the container. I sift my pumice into three sizes, 1/4+, 1/8-1/4", and 1/8-. That's big chunks, medium chunk and sands. The fines and dust will flush out the drain holes. The bottom is filled about 1/3 of the container with the big chunk. Then the tree is planted in the medium chunk and a small amount of sands is spread over the surface and worked in and around the roots.

 

[Anthony]

Wow, so much work.
We have a soil depth limit for trees - 5 to 6 inches in the pot

Then a simple mix of 5 mm inorganic plus sifted aged compost.
Never had any problems.
Plus the inorganic is just simple silica based gravel [ concrete mixing stuff]
or if needed, some water holding inorganic can be substituted in.

The 5 to 6 inch depth, we found causes no water problems.
Used in the refinement stage - branchlets and leaves, often an
oversized bonsai pot.
As usual 6 months no rain, 6 months rain 6 - up to 9 inches.
Plus we repot during the no rain period.

Observe the K.I.S.S.
Good Day
Anthony