Opinions on re-doing a trident maple chop in late August.

Dav4

Dav4

Drop Branch Murphy
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Location
SE MI- Bonsai'd for 12 years both MA and N GA
USDA Zone
6a
Ok, I'll try and post some pictures tonight after work, but I thought I'd start the thread now. I recently acquired a big trident maple stump. It arrived yesterday and I was able to eyeball it personally for the first time. It's got a great trunk and base, but the high chop on the upper trunk leaves a lot to be desired. I've decided the chop needs to be redone about an inch lower. Does anybody have a concern doing the work now? It's going to be in the low 90's for at least another week (sigh) and my growing season goes through October and probably into November this year. Thanks.
 
JudyB said:
I vote that we hold all answers hostage till we see pics!:p

It's a trident, and it's in your climate. I just did last pruning on mine last week. You should be good to go.
Click to expand...
I'm leaning toward doing it now, but want this one to work. The last chop looks old but doesn't show much healing, and there WAS a thick leader up there (over an inch thick).
 
I guess it depends on how healthy the tree is and how vigorous. If it needs a repot, and isn't pushing hard, then you should wait. Didn't think about that before I threw out the other reply
 
I'd saw off that entire left monstrosity.

Sorce
 
Do you know if it's root bound? If it is, I'd wait. My big one has responded so strongly to having space to push newly pruned roots.. I did all my big chops on that in late winter, then did a big root chop (huuge root chop) at repotting that spring.
 
JudyB said:
Do you know if it's root bound? If it is, I'd wait. My big one has responded so strongly to having space to push newly pruned roots.. I did all my big chops on that in late winter, then did a big root chop (huuge root chop) at repotting that spring.
Click to expand...
I suspect it might be...lots of roots at the top of the soil under the mulch soil dressing. I'll pull it from the can and see tonight.
 
Why not chop below the big bulge on the left? That seems like quite a bit of inverse taper to fight. I think that's what you're talking about, but it looks like more than an inch lower.
 
with a previous section so wide, and to be able to get the transition smooth, is this achievable in that pot?
 
Alright Judy, what do you have to say for yourself? :)

Is that a Don B tree?
 
pweifan said:
Why not chop below the big bulge on the left? That seems like quite a bit of inverse taper to fight. I think that's what you're talking about, but it looks like more than an inch lower.
Click to expand...
My proposed chop will be at more of an angle and will be going through that "bulge", so much of it will be more then an inch below the current top.. The reverse taper is there but I'm hoping to minimize it if I do my carving correctly. Also, this is a big and gnarly trunk, so a little reverse taper isn't a big deal.
 
Dav4 said:
My proposed chop will be at more of an angle and will be going through that "bulge", so much of it will be more then an inch below the current top.. The reverse taper is there but I'm hoping to minimize it if I do my carving correctly. Also, this is a big and gnarly trunk, so a little reverse taper isn't a big deal.
Click to expand...

I always forget about carving :) I just don't have enough experience yet to even consider it in my toolbelt.

This should be a great tree!
 
Heavy! Would it ever be a good idea to create scars to correct or minimize rever taper? More specifically with Trident maples.
 
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