Oh my Myrtus!

[f1pt4]

Thought I'd throw this out to the nut community. I have this Greek Myrtle/Myrtus Communis that I would like some feedback for.

It will be repotted, but I wanted to commit to a design as well.

It's been growing happily in my care for the past two years. Spends the summers outside, and winters indoors under lights. It seems to grow quite vigorously both outside and in, and does tend to back bud. I don't give it any dormancy, which I hope doesn't weaken it. Feedback on that aspect is welcome as well.

So.. I was thinking either a Peirneif style keeping all 4 of the branches/trunks, or going semi cascade, dropping three of the four.

Any tidbits of advice re: any of the above or life in general are welcome.

 

[Wilson]

It looks like the perfect candidate for the pierneef style. I think in a nice shallow pot, with the flat top look could be a winner.

 

[GrimLore]

I don't give it any dormancy, which I hope doesn't weaken it.

It is a USDA zone 9 - 11 plant so controlling growth can be a bit tricky indoors. Might want to look at a major city down south daily in the weather and determine more closely the length of day to insure it does go dormant or in this case slows growth for a bit. I am finding for the indoor plants reducing the amount of artificial light a bit for a few weeks in the Winter here helps that happen. Just a consideration if the plant needs it.

It looks like the perfect candidate for the pierneef style. I think in a nice shallow pot, with the flat top look could be a winner.

What he said

Grimmy

 

[f1pt4]

It is a USDA zone 9 - 11 plant so controlling growth can be a bit tricky indoors. Might want to look at a major city down south daily in the weather and determine more closely the length of day to insure it does go dormant or in this case slows growth for a bit. I am finding for the indoor plants reducing the amount of artificial light a bit for a few weeks in the Winter here helps that happen. Just a consideration if the plant needs it.


Grimmy

It's the summer equinox all year round for my tropicals/subtropicals! Which worries me because I'm pretty sure they need some time to chill. Most specifically my Chinese bird plum and jasmine orange which show stress come winter. Dieback most specifically. And constant flowering which can't be good (lots of energy spent) 16 hours on, 8 hours off. Lux's + distance = good summer sunlight in the grow room. All the ficuses are happy. Portulacarias as well. But my Myrtus hasn't flowered a single time in 2016 or this winter. Is that a sign of stress? No dieback on it. Just general vigorous growth.

Photo 1 or 2 for the front if Piernieffing it? 2 is deeper rather than wider. 1 has a nice wide left to right canopy but the front trunk/branch is crossing. Oh decisions decisions. Don't want to piern-eff it up!

 

[GrimLore]

But my Myrtus hasn't flowered a single time in 2016 or this winter. Is that a sign of stress? No dieback on it. Just general vigorous growth.

Just growing and growing with no blooms is common here in many indoor plants if they get our 8 on 4 off 8 on 4 off lighting constant throughout Winter. I have not seen it hurt plants BUT they require a lot more trimming and minimal if any blooming results. I noted the last few years on various plants and this season in December I changed the timers to 5 on 7 off 5 on 7 off and all looks good so far running it like that in all of January too. I have noted a few times that 16 hours with higher T5 lights resulted in leggy growth. A few years ago I went down to T8 and there was less leggy growth but it still occurred. This season chopping the length of time has just put them to a stalled state and had minimal leaf loss. It has been a few seasons now at this place in the plant room and I find I am tweaking things yearly but I have time.
I have honestly been keying in on a few plants in particular such as Serissa, Bougainvillea, and a few other flowering. The method for timed blooming I learned from a grower on hothouse Azalea and so far it looks like it works on several species.
Cacti, Succulents and things like the Banana tree don't care and get a total of 16 hours a day.
A dedicated plant room can be a lot of notes and work but once all is documented worth the time if you have it.

Grimmy

 

[sorce]

Peirneif

I think this is a wicked evil plot on the trees part to put a glitch in your future vision goggles.
(they've done it to me too.)

Made worse IMO by the still eye of a photographer.

This tree makes you see that style now.

But in all reality you would need at least 8 Times the ramification and taper in those trunks before reaching that height to make this feel more like a tree than a shrub.

I would either grow it for more lower trunk until one of the secondaries gives you that perfect bud to cut back to, which gives you a good single trunk line...

Or stub it out....

You have posted the photographs of your Canadian "par".
Those photographs make me consider you a professional.

With all due respect.....

I think you can either start this game shooting for eagle, and make birdie.

Or hit it in the trees and continue photographing excellent trees that aren't yours.

I managed to find noon at Grimmy's during this post, so I'm sorry if it is harsh.

Sorce

 

[MichaelS]

Just grow it as is. Leave all the trunks, and just use the scissors. It will be a nice little tree just doing that. I like the first front. As sorce hinted at, once you see the fine network of branches develop in the canopy, I think it will be very satisfying.
I think a rounded top rathe than flat but uneven, not a dome

 

[Dalmat]

I think this is a wicked evil plot on the trees part to put a glitch in your future vision goggles.

LOL

But in all reality you would need at least 8 Times the ramification and taper in those trunks before reaching that height to make this feel more like a tree than a shrub.

As in nature, I pull 5-6 or those out past November, stayed out on 23F without problem, that was record low here in past 60years.
Thin it out a bit,open to the light , let it back bud, I see no limitations on style then. Flowers come on lower branches not on top.



One of them after the "haircut"



See, still lot of options. (Disclaimer) This is for OP. Sorce quoted for (rare) wisdom words LOL.

 

[f1pt4]

I think this is a wicked evil plot on the trees part to put a glitch in your future vision goggles.
(they've done it to me too.)

Made worse IMO by the still eye of a photographer.

This tree makes you see that style now.

But in all reality you would need at least 8 Times the ramification and taper in those trunks before reaching that height to make this feel more like a tree than a shrub.

I would either grow it for more lower trunk until one of the secondaries gives you that perfect bud to cut back to, which gives you a good single trunk line...

Or stub it out....

You have posted the photographs of your Canadian "par".
Those photographs make me consider you a professional.

With all due respect.....

I think you can either start this game shooting for eagle, and make birdie.

Or hit it in the trees and continue photographing excellent trees that aren't yours.

I managed to find noon at Grimmy's during this post, so I'm sorry if it is harsh.

Sorce

I agree. It does lend itself to a Pierneif. I also see potential for something like this :




Taken from Stephen Voss' book "In Training". ^ ^^^^^^^^^^^ ^

I don't want it to thicken up too too much.

I earned a living taking photographs. Not any more.

Well I hope to one day be capturing worthy photographs of my own trees amongst those ranks..

no need to apologise. criptic but not crazy.

 

[f1pt4]

Just growing and growing with no blooms is common here in many indoor plants if they get our 8 on 4 off 8 on 4 off lighting constant throughout Winter. I have not seen it hurt plants BUT they require a lot more trimming and minimal if any blooming results. I noted the last few years on various plants and this season in December I changed the timers to 5 on 7 off 5 on 7 off and all looks good so far running it like that in all of January too. I have noted a few times that 16 hours with higher T5 lights resulted in leggy growth. A few years ago I went down to T8 and there was less leggy growth but it still occurred. This season chopping the length of time has just put them to a stalled state and had minimal leaf loss. It has been a few seasons now at this place in the plant room and I find I am tweaking things yearly but I have time.
I have honestly been keying in on a few plants in particular such as Serissa, Bougainvillea, and a few other flowering. The method for timed blooming I learned from a grower on hothouse Azalea and so far it looks like it works on several species.
Cacti, Succulents and things like the Banana tree don't care and get a total of 16 hours a day.
A dedicated plant room can be a lot of notes and work but once all is documented worth the time if you have it.

Grimmy

Interesting. I've never heard of two on/off cycles per 24 hours. Although I may try the technique on some of my plants that could benefit from a break. Do you run them 7/5 all winter? or just for a a couple months?

I use HOT5 flourescents, and I find that the growth isn't all that leggy. Mind you I have a lot of light pumping out, not just 1 or 2 bulbs.

I make mental notes, but I got some whiteboards I want to start using.

 

[GrimLore]

Interesting. I've never heard of two on/off cycles per 24 hours.

Large growing facilities have been doing it for a long time. I understand the model I use and experiment with is basic so this year I am playing with the time cycle as they also do but no exact information is readily available.

Do you run them 7/5 all winter? or just for a a couple months?

I knocked it back to 5 on 7 off this year for all of December and January. Needed less water for those and did not use any fertilizer. Today after 9days at 8/4 the plants I did that with are starting to show new buds and will be getting mid month fertilizer soon.

I make mental notes, but I got some whiteboards I want to start using.

My Wife in particular likes a lot of tropicals and most are not Bonsai. There are other types in the same room so I have different light, temperature, and humidity levels in 5 areas. The room itself has its own air filter and I run a ceiling fan 24 hours a day on low in reverse and get air movement.I have been monitoring an unused wall and will add two more shelves giving us 7 zones this Summer when the room is most empty. No way can I do without notes

Grimmy