No growth this summer

William Dinitzen

Yamadori
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Denmark
Hey this summer my chinese elm has had very limited growth. The growth that it has had is very brittle and often develops yellow/transparent spots and eventually falls off. Last year i had light green long shoots growing basically on a day to day basis, but this year the new shoots rarely make it more than 3 cm before either wilting or simply not growing any further. Any ideas why this i happening? Lack of light maybe, perhaps lack of airflow when inside my greenhouse at night? They are fertilized with pokon liquid fert and recieve somewhere between 4-6 house of direct sunlight a day, while watering whenever topsoil is getting slightly dry.BFE895AC-0A59-4E36-8ABD-24C553F2C4A9.jpeg7E72E2C2-ECC9-4DEA-AD31-A1D55AC02805.jpeg
 
What sort of soil is it planted in? What recent work has been done on this tree?

I'm wondering if it's a (over) watering issue. Keeping an elm in a greenhouse during summer just for the nights is not something I've heard of, but I'm not terribly familiar with your climate. The yellowing and dropping leaves sounds consistent with over watering.
watering whenever topsoil is getting slightly dry.
I think this might be too much. Generally the advice I hear is to water when the top 5cm of soil is COMPLETELY dry, which is pretty different to what you're describing. Do you pick the tree up before watering to feel it's weight? That is the surest way to determine when a tree needs water, but it of course takes some calibration.
 
What sort of soil is it planted in? What recent work has been done on this tree?

I'm wondering if it's a (over) watering issue. Keeping an elm in a greenhouse during summer just for the nights is not something I've heard of, but I'm not terribly familiar with your climate. The yellowing and dropping leaves sounds consistent with over watering.

I think this might be too much. Generally the advice I hear is to water when the top 5cm of soil is COMPLETELY dry, which is pretty different to what you're describing. Do you pick the tree up before watering to feel it's weight? That is the surest way to determine when a tree needs water, but it of course takes some calibration.
Oh thats very different from what i thought, if thats the case im DEFINITELY overwatering, ill be keeping that in mind thanks! I live i a windy part of Denmark if that makes any difference:)
(edit)
Soil is a mix of normal neutral gardening soil and naruko im pretty sure.
 
Regarding soil, the best advice is to find out what other bonsai enthusiasts in your area use and try that. Soil is probably the most regionally dependent aspect of growing trees in containers, so you should start with something that has worked for others. It's unlikely to be gardening soil, but who knows!

If you have a local bonsai club, I'd see about bringing this tree to the next meeting, unless you believe it may have a disease or pest infestation (though that looks unlikely). A local expert might be able to tell whether doing an emergency repot would make sense, which is sometimes necessary in cases of root rot which can be caused by over watering. It doesn't look like it's that bad from the picture, but others may have better info.

In the summer, it's common to water once a day, or twice if you have a hot, dry day and use a fast draining soil. Less in other seasons, down to sometimes as little as twice per week in winter.
 
Regarding soil, the best advice is to find out what other bonsai enthusiasts in your area use and try that. Soil is probably the most regionally dependent aspect of growing trees in containers, so you should start with something that has worked for others. It's unlikely to be gardening soil, but who knows!

If you have a local bonsai club, I'd see about bringing this tree to the next meeting, unless you believe it may have a disease or pest infestation (though that looks unlikely). A local expert might be able to tell whether doing an emergency repot would make sense, which is sometimes necessary in cases of root rot which can be caused by over watering. It doesn't look like it's that bad from the picture, but others may have better info.

In the summer, it's common to water once a day, or twice if you have a hot, dry day and use a fast draining soil. Less in other seasons, down to sometimes as little as twice per week in winter.
I emergency repotted the tree about 6 weeks ago with the help from a local expert, with the goal to try a solve this issue, however i hasnt seemed to work. Sorry i forgot to mention that, i will hold back slightly on the watering and hope that helps resolve the issue. One thing ive also noticed is that the new growths that die often curl around, is that also a sign of overwatering? Ive linked a photo where the curl has statted developing
5EC74F64-2C8F-4525-BC3A-CF61511AE7BB.jpeg
 
I think your best bet will be to work towards appropriate watering and give it time. I would probably block up on side to get things draining quicker and let it dry out a bit between waterings
 
I think your best bet will be to work towards appropriate watering and give it time. I would probably block up on side to get things draining quicker and let it dry out a bit between waterings
Alright ill work on it😄
 
Why would you put it in greenhouse for the night at this time of the year?
On the west coast of denmark where i live the gusts of wind at night get very cold, like 5 C ish. And its sometimes very windy, so i figured it would be good to protect from too much damage.
 
Close up of soil? Your soil sounds and looks borderline anaerobic in that top picture.
Ill send one tomorrow, but i had just watered the tree so that might be why it looks that way, ive just mixed it with in person help from an expert 6 weeks ago, so it shoudnt be an issue…
 
Sure looks like a root issue. Elms have these meaty roots that hold a good deal of water. Normally they will do well in drier conditions especially in

A couple years ago sob root worked the roots of two nursery elms, Ebihara style, as an experiment to see if the nebari could be improved.

One took that radical treatment like a trooper, growing strong and vigorous. Still around now.

The other sputtered for a year and died at the beginning of summer. Yours looks like mine did. Misshapen leaves etc.

To check for a root issue I have is to take a close look at the soil and roots if possible. If it is wet and smelly, and roots are limp, black and squishy likely big problem.

If not, add 2 tablespoons of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide to 1 L water and use this mix to. water with 1x week. Also stop fertilizer for at least a month, of the tree starts putting out normal leaves.

Finally keep the tree outside. 5C is ok. But keep the tree situated out of the wind.

Good Luck!
DSD sends
 
Agree root issue
Soil looks heavy/high on the potting soil and not drying out
Easiest way to monitor soil moisture is stick a wooden chopstick in the pot and leave it there. Pull it out once a day and look at it. Water when it is almost dry. Don't wait until completely dry.
 
Get it in a well drained soil and let it recover. I can’t seem to stop my chinese elms from growing. I have to prune the new growth every couple of weeks. It grows so fast I now have 5 that came from cuttings and air layers off the parent over the last 3 years.
 
I emergency repotted the tree about 6 weeks ago with the help from a local expert, with the goal to try a solve this issue, however i hasnt seemed to work. Sorry i forgot to mention that, i will hold back slightly on the watering and hope that helps resolve the issue. One thing ive also noticed is that the new growths that die often curl around, is that also a sign of overwatering? Ive linked a photo where the curl has statted developing
View attachment 498964
The leaf curl looks like a reaction to very high humidity levels. If you are changing the humidity drastically by moving it from one environment, like a greenhouse, to another, like outside with more wind, this is probably the source of your leaf curl issue. The pale leaves could very well be overwatering, but could also be from a deficiency. How are you feeding it? Also, you will likely need to change your substrate, though doing so while the tree is stressed is not optimal. Anyway, I would keep it out of the greenhouse and adjust your watering routine and see if that helps.
 
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Close up of soil? Your soil sounds and looks borderline anaerobic in that top picture.
Sure looks like a root issue. Elms have these meaty roots that hold a good deal of water. Normally they will do well in drier conditions especially in

A couple years ago sob root worked the roots of two nursery elms, Ebihara style, as an experiment to see if the nebari could be improved.

One took that radical treatment like a trooper, growing strong and vigorous. Still around now.

The other sputtered for a year and died at the beginning of summer. Yours looks like mine did. Misshapen leaves etc.

To check for a root issue I have is to take a close look at the soil and roots if possible. If it is wet and smelly, and roots are limp, black and squishy likely big problem.

If not, add 2 tablespoons of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide to 1 L water and use this mix to. water with 1x week. Also stop fertilizer for at least a month, of the tree starts putting out normal leaves.

Finally keep the tree outside. 5C is ok. But keep the tree situated out of the wind.

Good Luck!
DSD sends


I was gonna type stuff like this..

But you fine folks beat me to it!

🤓
 
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