The side that would be a good front shows none or the least amount of scarring on the trunk and unfortunately the front I want to use has one big ass branch coming out right at the viewer. This trident has me proceeding with caution. It's probably the most valuable tree in my collection and I honestly don't want to make the decision to remove a branch and wish I hadn't cut it later...that would suck. I've gotten a lot out of this forum when asking for advice. I let one branch grow last year to thread graft.
Nice Trident maple and I would appreciate the communitys advice
- Thread starter Benny w
- Start date
This is my idea so far. And the red line is where I would thread graft the second branch. The black is where I would eliminate. The green is the direction I would want to take the 1st branch I can either do that by grafting or pruning but either case I wouldn't want to eliminate that branch but try to change its direction a bit. Removing big branches on the trunk is something we all hate and if I don't have to then great but this trident has so much potential I just hope the pics are of quality enough where you guys reading this are comfortable in giving advice and if not let me know and I'll try take better pics. Thanks
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River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
I would suggest that you explore all planting angles in co-ordination with exposing the nebari before making any decisions. There may be some better options with the trunk at a different angle.
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
There's rarely an ideal front for bonsai. Viewing angle is a compromise between the best of nebari, trunk, branches, features and faults.
Definitely consider the nebari before determining the front for the tree.
Planting angle may be able to be changed a little but usually the main roots are well and truly set in place by this stage so trunk angle can't be altered much.
There appears to be some minor reverse taper around that big front branch near the top and with a couple of other branches close by that is likely to get worse.
My initial reaction was to remove the top of the tree above the front branch - then I looked at your virt. Almost the same thoughts.
Definitely check nebari and options for trunk tilting (slightly backwards would be ideal?) but from the photos I'd be happy to go with your plan.
Definitely consider the nebari before determining the front for the tree.
Planting angle may be able to be changed a little but usually the main roots are well and truly set in place by this stage so trunk angle can't be altered much.
There appears to be some minor reverse taper around that big front branch near the top and with a couple of other branches close by that is likely to get worse.
My initial reaction was to remove the top of the tree above the front branch - then I looked at your virt. Almost the same thoughts.
Definitely check nebari and options for trunk tilting (slightly backwards would be ideal?) but from the photos I'd be happy to go with your plan.
Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
Please add location to profile. Again, check what is below soil for front decision. Tree has several major faults needing corrected maybe best solved by major cut back
. Bad idea display of trees in front of house unless wanting to lose same
.
. Bad idea display of trees in front of house unless wanting to lose same.
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An even worse idea would be to add location to my profilePlease add location to profile. Again, check what is below soil for front decision. Tree has several major faults needing corrected maybe best solved by major cut back
Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
Not address silly. City, state, USDA climate zone gives best advice.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Sounds like a plan!
This its the trunkline you have in mind then?
Trident maple heal cuts very well, so the risk is not too great that you ruin things. Do make sure you create a recess in the trunk where you removed the branch, so the bark does not bulge out once healed.
If you do put a threadgraft on: Start drilling from the EXIT hole of the branch. This way you know exactly where the branch will be attached. Naturally, you angle the drill in the angle that you want the future branch to be attached to the trunk..
This its the trunkline you have in mind then?
Trident maple heal cuts very well, so the risk is not too great that you ruin things. Do make sure you create a recess in the trunk where you removed the branch, so the bark does not bulge out once healed.
If you do put a threadgraft on: Start drilling from the EXIT hole of the branch. This way you know exactly where the branch will be attached. Naturally, you angle the drill in the angle that you want the future branch to be attached to the trunk..
I disagree.
That's exactly what I'm thinking.
Thank you for the reminder of drilling from the exit side. I only have a few thread grafts under my belt and was curious if anyone uses a hand drill instead of an electric drill. Understand though if careful the cambium will be fine and just go slow with the electric type as I've done in rhe past but I remeber my grandpas ol hand drill kicked ass or so I thought ..
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
I've used both hand drill and electric. Does not seem to be much difference in results. For most the electric version will be easier to hold and control in one hand. The hand drill takes 2 hands to operate so you may need someone else to hold the tree while you drill.
