Newly acquired Virginia Pine

[Matt G]

Hello!

Long time reader, first time poster. I’ve been a bonsai hobbyist for about 3 years now. I’ve been scouring the internet for information along the way. Thank you to everyone on here for making this site a great resource.

Enough about me, more about trees and bonsai. I acquired this 3 gallon Virginia Pine today from a local nursery. I’m very excited for its future potential as a bonsai. I understand the whorling isn’t ideal. There is a little swelling at that junction. Will this even out with time? Should I prune it down to 2 or 3 branches at that node now or can it wait?

My initial plan is to repot it next spring into some better soil. Should I use the standard 1-1-1 APL? I read it likes dryer soil so I thought it might like more pumice in the mix.

Thanks!
Matt

 

[Shibui]

Do you have any plans of a style for this pine?

It's a long way up to that cluster of branches and no taper either. Then a long way out any of those upper branches to any side branching. Need to remember that most pines are reluctant to bud on bare wood so getting more branches is usually not an option. Need to plan to work with what's already there.
With that in mind it may be better to ignore that whole trunk and plan to work with one or both of those lower branch/trunks. They still have options to grow secondary branching.

There is a little swelling at that junction. Will this even out with time? Should I prune it down to 2 or 3 branches at that node now or can it wait?

Looks to me like there's quite a bit of swelling happening at that upper whorl and that's likely to increase if/when you remove any branches. You could try removing some of the thicker ones now and see what happens but I suspect it won't be good.

As for soil mix, depends how you water and what options for placing the trees. I use one standard mix for all species here and manage tree needs by locating 'dry' trees in sunnier spots and watering a little less. I've found that, provided your soil mix is reasonably well drained with good air filled porosity, even pines will be OK with the same watering regime as maples, etc. Conditions wherever you live might be different enough that my approach won't work as well so look for some local knowledge.

To that end it pays to add a location to your personal profile. That way it shows up each time you post so others can allow for your conditions, timing, etc.

 

[August44]

Do you have any plans of a style for this pine?

It's a long way up to that cluster of branches and no taper either. Then a long way out any of those upper branches to any side branching. Need to remember that most pines are reluctant to bud on bare wood so getting more branches is usually not an option. Need to plan to work with what's already there.
With that in mind it may be better to ignore that whole trunk and plan to work with one or both of those lower branch/trunks. They still have options to grow secondary branching.

Looks to me like there's quite a bit of swelling happening at that upper whorl and that's likely to increase if/when you remove any branches. You could try removing some of the thicker ones now and see what happens but I suspect it won't be good.

As for soil mix, depends how you water and what options for placing the trees. I use one standard mix for all species here and manage tree needs by locating 'dry' trees in sunnier spots and watering a little less. I've found that, provided your soil mix is reasonably well drained with good air filled porosity, even pines will be OK with the same watering regime as maples, etc. Conditions wherever you live might be different enough that my approach won't work as well so look for some local knowledge.

To that end it pays to add a location to your personal profile. That way it shows up each time you post so others can allow for your conditions, timing, etc.

We all went through this phase. One of the very first things you need to learn is how at tree is put together initially should be the main factor when you are purchasing. I really can't tell what is going on at the bottom of the tree, but there could be branches there that will someday make a great tree. The distance from the bottom branched to the branches on the top, with a big bare space will certainly be a problem depending on how these trees back bud. The whirl at the top at least should be reduced to a max of two branches IMO, but there is still a problem with the large area with no branches. To me the trees says, let my top grow out to build the trunk and count on using the bottom branches later as the main tree. I think that would work. One has to learn how to judge the tree before you purchase it. Hard to learn, but useful in the end.
You should post where u live and the growing zone so people can give you correct advice

 

[Matt G]

Here are some better pictures of the lower trunk. There are 5 small new shoots emerging within the first 6 inches of the trunk and 3 established branches that are at the very base of the trunk. Still hard to see it all.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

I think this tree is planted quite deep, given the space between the soil level and the first branches.
I would dig around a little and see if you can find a root base.

You might want to remove the hole upper part and rebuild it from the bottom, which is pretty achievable in a decent timeframe (3-5 years).

 

[Shibui]

I would dig around a little and see if you can find a root base.

Very important starting point when planning any bonsai.
Sometimes trees have been planter very deep. We style a great tree then discover there's another 3 or 4 inches of trunk which puts the new style out of balance. Or the trunk might look much better tilted to one side which would upset the branching we've developed.
Definitely locate some good roots before going further but I suspect those lower shoots are where you'll find your bonsai. Unless you like a very tall, very straight tree with no taper.