Newly acquired San Jose juniper

[Ugo]

Hi everyone!

I would like to present my new tree a San Jose juniper.
It as been taken from a nursery tree to a bonsai by David Easterbrook 22 years ago.
I know some bonsaist dont appreciate the mixed foliage of the San Jose juniper, but no foliage graft for this little guy, I do enjoy the foliage look as it remembes me the trees from my parents place!

In terms of sun this little guys will be well served in my backyard, I will see how it respond but I think I found a spot he will appreaciate.
The tree actually sit on a rotating table so it will be turned each 3-4 days to ensure light distribution accross the canopy.

My future plans is the following:

September-Nov 22'
-Cleaning of the moss on the trunk, Jin and shari and presevation of the deadwood
(I still have to do my homeworks about the cleaning solution to use either on bark and deadwood plus gathering more informations on Harry Harrington technique consisting in applying ash from burned wood before the application of lime sulfur...)
-Removal of the weak shoots early September.
-Preparation of the tree for winter - application of dormant oil in Oct-Now

Spring-Early Summer 23' (Ill ask the tree when time comes!)
-Wiring of the entire canopy
-working on establishing moss on top of the soil

My priority being the general health of the tree and the building of foliage mass, the styling is not my priority for next year so it will fully depend on the tree response.




Actual front ( I plan on adding a Shari somewhere on the front of the trunk in the future)


Back






Hope you enjoy, Im all ears on your comments and advises
Thanks
Ugo

 

[Adamski77]

Beautiful…

it’s always hard, especially with junipers to get proper assessment of the tree… even with all the great photos you attached. The only thing I can say for now is that I would reconsider potentially to make front out of what you call back now… deadwood with live veins is probably main feature here… you would just need to solve for this elbow on the left but I have a feeling with rotating the tree clockwise from photo position you could come up with some nice compromise.

 

[sorce]

Real Nice.

I think wiring the whole canopy would be a waste of time.

The fatty base and perfect second segment thickness should be accentuated with a long term plan to compact it down to what is visible in the 2nd and 3rd photos.

Accepting other folks' impatient work and poor vision is a trap.

Find more potential, it's certainly there.

Sorce

 

[sorce]

compact it down to what is visible in the 2nd and 3rd photos.

The pot also then becomes the correct size.

Sorce

 

[bwaynef]

My priorities for this tree would be:

1. Situate it in full-sun. That's going to be the key. This will right a long of wrongs.
   1. That'd mean, away from the canopy that's over it now, which hopefully was just for the photo sesh.
2. The next step would ordinarily be to repot, but this mix seems fairly coarse (and inorganic) so if it drains well, I might let it ride another year. Probably wouldn't hurt to repot, though it could push the recovery several months. I'd recommend this in mid-late spring.
3. General Juniper cleanup (This can be done now.)
   1. remove downward growing foliage
   2. remove foliage w/in ½"-3/4" of the crotch
   3. remove weak growth
   4. remove growth in obviously-wrong places
4. Wire all branches with priority given to arranging for maximum sun exposure (This can be done now. This isn't a major operation that will result in major breaks and tears. You're just repositioning branches to receive light.)
   1. branches should radiate
   2. no branches below other branches
   3. Wire the tips slightly up.
5. Fertilize heavily starting in spring.

The next step is the hardest: don't do anything. Wait until there is unmistakable vigor. If you're not positive what vigorous growth looks like and you ask yourself "Is this vigorous enough to work on," then it isn't. You need "runners" or whips of growth all over the canopy. This might take 2 years. This will drive backbudding that will help you compact the canopy.

 

[Paradox]

I agree with the post by @bwaynef
Good info there. I would add that you should feed it well also

It is a very nice tree that has a lot of potential to be even better

 

[LanceMac10]

I'd be looking to SAVE ANY growth closer to the trunk......unless you like 2 foot long branches with foliage way out at the ends folded back on itself 3-4 times?

Tree about half as tall as it should be.

Killer base, emphasize it.

 

[bwaynef]

I agree with the post by @bwaynef
Good info there. I would add that you should feed it well also

Fertilize heavily starting in spring.

Covered.

I'd be looking to SAVE ANY growth closer to the trunk......unless you like 2 foot long branches with foliage way out at the ends folded back on itself 3-4 times?

Letting the tree get vigorous will take care of the (lack of) growth in the interior, but its going to take time and discipline .

 

[Crazy Diamond]

If you keep it happy, well fed and let light in the interior it will backbud like crazy, San joses are very vigorous, in my opinion I would work it as needle juniper unless you graft it with ito or kishu

 

[jimib]

I have one I bought as a bush about 6-7 years ago for $5 on clearance. I tried with it but pretty much knew nothing. Eventually I was invited to a small workshop with Sergio, maybe 4 years ago, my first workshop ever. He had a plan abc sketched it out for me. Slowly I’m working towards it with my budget tree. Needs done cleaning and wiring here very soon.

 

[Ugo]

Hi everyone and thank you for your answers.

I believe that this is very good advice for the present and the future of this tree. So let me give you more details on the points that have been raised and maybe ask a one or two more questions at the same time!

My priorities for this tree would be:

1. Situate it in full-sun. That's going to be the key. This will right a long of wrongs.
   1. That'd mean, away from the canopy that's over it now, which hopefully was just for the photo sesh.
2. The next step would ordinarily be to repot, but this mix seems fairly coarse (and inorganic) so if it drains well, I might let it ride another year. Probably wouldn't hurt to repot, though it could push the recovery several months. I'd recommend this in mid-late spring.
3. General Juniper cleanup (This can be done now.)
   1. remove downward growing foliage
   2. remove foliage w/in ½"-3/4" of the crotch
   3. remove weak growth
   4. remove growth in obviously-wrong places
4. Wire all branches with priority given to arranging for maximum sun exposure (This can be done now. This isn't a major operation that will result in major breaks and tears. You're just repositioning branches to receive light.)
   1. branches should radiate
   2. no branches below other branches
   3. Wire the tips slightly up.
5. Fertilize heavily starting in spring.

The next step is the hardest: don't do anything. Wait until there is unmistakable vigor. If you're not positive what vigorous growth looks like and you ask yourself "Is this vigorous enough to work on," then it isn't. You need "runners" or whips of growth all over the canopy. This might take 2 years. This will drive backbudding that will help you compact the canopy.

1- Really good observation here about the shade cloth!!!
In fact this place was occupied by a katsura maple, so I had to put a shade of 40% so its foliage wouldn't burn!
This juniper will be more than spoiled in terms of sun. My backyard faces south, and I do have to find ways to shade my other trees, the katsura has been place under a pergola I bought not long ago so its was a perfect timing to bring in more trees.
Let resume it, confifers in general usually thrive here except larches that need a bit more protection!
I selected two possible placements for this tree on the benches and mostly considering theses 2 choices.
The current location on the same bench as pictured abouve and without the shade cloth, on a rotary table, the tree receives direct sunlight from 8am to 2pm from where it starts to be in partial shade to completely shaded until 7pm where the sun hits the back of the tree for the remaining of the day.
Second location, the tree gets direct sun all day long from morning sun until late afternoon where it start to be partialy shaded from 6pm.

2- As for the repot the ex-owner told me it has been done this year. So there is no plan on doing a repot except if it lose percolation to a point where its needed.
For sure Ill keep my eyes on it but so far I have no visual indications in term of soil and drainage thats make me plan on a repot soon.
Knowing the age of the tree, which is approx. 30+ years old, I was hoping to be able to push a future repot in 3-4 years if possible.
Can I have your opinion on my choice here?

3- Thanks!! It confirms my approach thank you for that.
My only concern is about foliage w/in ½"-3/4" of the crotch.
Do you think leaving young foliage but that are potential ¨structual¨ issues on the tree in the optic of getting more energy before Winter and remove these next Spring would be more advisable?

4-As for the wiring knowing now the tree was recently repotted I was not really positive about wiring for this year...
I think it doesnt really worth it for now even If I totally understand the concept you mentionned above.
So this is still something Im evaluating, @sorce you probably made your comment above for the same reason: The lowest portion of the canopy receive good direct sun inside from every side but the top part is a little bit congested...
I will for sure clean the downward growing foliage and the weakest growth all around and re-evaluate the situation.

5. Yes sir @Paradox and you where right on!
Can I ask some more details about fertilizer used... I dont want to start an whole debate here but I recently read from a renowed bonsai master : Do not use Organic and Chimical fertilizer at the same time, as the tree will take the easiest one to assimilate first and you wont get the benefits of the organic fertilizer...
My first plan was to use chicken manure 5-3-2 (Quantity and application were still to be determined) and using let say 20-10-20 chemical fert each 2 months during the growing period.
The statement above made me doubt... If you have guys have an opinion or advises Im all hears.

I totally agree with you on the future phase of letting it grow!
As you probably noticed I started bonsai only a few years ago but I worked with junipers at my parents place.
Not saying I was working correctly on them but Ive learned alot about their preferences, behaviors, growing habits and Ive personally assited to the ¨easiest¨ back budding on old wood Ive ever seen on a conifers which made me lead to think In my younger days all conifers where like that.....
All that to say I never had to really manage the energy on theses inground junipers as they were growing quite well years after years.
One in my parent backyard is around 70yrs old, it mesures 9ft tall and 12ft wide and became my new favorite toy for atleast 6yrs now!!
Ive seen the complete mess it can became when its vigourous so there is no way Im gonna interfere with that on this little tree for the next coming years.

Again thanks alot for your time



Hi Sorce!

The fatty base and perfect second segment thickness should be accentuated with a long term plan to compact it down to what is visible in the 2nd and 3rd photos

I totally agree! and you where right on for the pot size..
I was observing the tree yesterday trying to see it in a slightly bigger pot. After seeing the exact view of the trunk you are describing there is no way Im changing pot size

Beautiful…

it’s always hard, especially with junipers to get proper assessment of the tree… even with all the great photos you attached. The only thing I can say for now is that I would reconsider potentially to make front out of what you call back now… deadwood with live veins is probably main feature here… you would just need to solve for this elbow on the left but I have a feeling with rotating the tree clockwise from photo position you could come up with some nice compromise.

I dont want to injure my brain and kill your eyes with an even longer post but I will come back on this constructive comment!

Thanks alot everyone
Ugo

 

[Paradox]

The reason I said, feed it well is because you will need to chase back foliage on some of those branches. I would not suggest to let it grow wild and uncontrolled but it will need continued vigor to move it in the direction you want. For this tree, I'd go with organic fertilizer myself. You're not really looking for explosive growth or further trunk development. Just to regain a bit more vigor to promote back budding.

If the tree was repotted in the spring of this year and seems to have recovered from that, you should be able to do some wiring without harming the tree. If it was done more recently then that or you feel more comfortable waiting a year for it to gain more vigor that's OK too. I tend to be a bit more cautious working my trees as well so I can understand that.

I would be careful about wiring and bending branches in the spring/summer. I have had branches slip their bark bending at that time of year resulting in a dead branch. I would wire no later than March or April before growth starts again.

 

[LanceMac10]

If these branches were not so distended and about 4-5 inches shorter, the tree would be an unruly bush. Great health in my eyes already, maybe not "vigorous" as it could be. Plenty healthy to do some work.

Taking foliage off helps vigor?

Did you get this from David himself or another individual?

 

[Ugo]

If these branches were not so distended and about 4-5 inches shorter, the tree would be an unruly bush. Great health in my eyes already, maybe not "vigorous" as it could be. Plenty healthy to do some work.

Taking foliage off helps vigor?

Did you get this from David himself or another individual?

Hi!

I know at first it sounds counter productive but I always heard removing weaker foliage would help a juniper.
For example a long mature single shoot with no new growth could be removed and the tree will benefit more from the removal then letting this shoot use energy from the tree.
I recently found an interresting document from the Ottawa bonsai society that resume pretty well the behaviour and possible maintenance to a Juniper!

Junipers.doc

 

[Colorado]

Beautiful juniper! It must be quite an honor to have a tree from Mr. Easterbrook!

 

[LanceMac10]

That kind of removal is more aesthetic than horticultural. This tree is way beyond hanging /weak growth ,for me it needs a massive overhaul. Sure, you get more light on the branching, but it takes more than that to get back-budding.

How does a long mature shoot TAKE energy, that makes no sense. It may become more dominate than nearby foliage, that's why you prune, to control growth.

Thin the crown some, if anything......it's a Trump comb over, basically a umbrella......don't look good on him or this tree...

 

[LanceMac10]

Beautiful juniper! It must be quite an honor to have a tree from Mr. Easterbrook!

I think there might have been someone in between David and @Ugo

 

[Colorado]

I think there might have been someone in between David and @Ugo

Not according to Easterbrook’s instagram

 

[Colorado]

And for what it’s worth, I’ll throw my 2 cents in the ring.

I think it is a really nice tree. Sure it looks like it hasn’t been worked in a year or two but I wouldn’t say it needs a dramatic overhaul. Just a standard working.

The suggestion to reduce the tree to the first and second trunk sections is absurd. Just my opinion of course.

 

[Paradox]

And for what it’s worth, I’ll throw my 2 cents in the ring.

I think it is a really nice tree. Sure it looks like it hasn’t been worked in a year or two but I wouldn’t say it needs a dramatic overhaul. Just a standard working.

The suggestion to reduce the tree to the first and second trunk sections is absurd. Just my opinion of course.

Yea I also agree that I'd not want to reduce the trunk either. I think it has nice movement. The branches and foliage need dealing with.