Rate of application is pivotal, but not the only issue. Thin leaves like Brazilian Raintree and Huascache can't take any oil spray at all, but if you have a problem with figs, you are doing to the leaf what you're supposed to do to the bugs: suffocate them by closing off their breathing pores. They're on the sides of bugs and the underside of leaves. Hort oils are vegetable oil, not mineral oils, and must be very light weight. My instruction sheets ( Gardensalive.com ) for
Pyola say 1 to 2 tsp per quart (a pyrethrin & Canola) and
Shield-All, 2 tablespoons per gallon (a pyrethrin & Neem). I use the lower amount for sprays and double the rate for drenches. I make it with hot water the first half shaken violently, followed by cold water. I think it disperses better that way, but I have to keep shaking the bottle in-between plants because it settles to the top of the bottle PDQ. I always drench the soil because anyone hiding down there in any stage of development has to pass through the surface soil to get out, and egg layers get it going in.
It's hard to measure those small amounts so if you err, be it on the low side. I believe in overkill or nothing, so I also use Bayer Once-a-year Rose Systemic 3 times a year for my tropicals: autumn when I bring them into the greenhouse, spring when they start to grow, and about June. The white flies and black flies follow me in anyway, and I treat every 6 to 8 weeks with a
Knock-Out-Gnats drench.
There are no easy answers. Except, of course to use a dish soap spray after which you pick them off by hand. Your bugs will smell nice and be very clean, and your finger tips used-up, to say nothing of your patience.