Need Styling Ideas for Bald Cypress

[SMJ76]

Looking to see what other's might come up with who have worked with bald cypress. The base of the trunk at the roots actually measure 16", the lower part of the trunk measures approx. 5-6" and then goes up to the area beyond where the shoots come out and into a 2.5-3" length. There are two shoots that come out of an area that had previously died back at some point in its life, (there were three, one was completely dead, I removed that one, it was pretty small.)
I was thinking of cutting one of the two live shoots you now see off, (the upper and smaller of the two) and keeping the lower one, then training the tree to go into a split twin style as it matured.
I wanted to post some photos to get some other styling ideas for it. I was thinking of heading in a similar direction that a fellow at Orlando Bonsai went and did a formal upright with a split top. I was planning on cutting off approx. the last 2 foot of tree and keeping it much smaller than it currently is.

Here's the tree, the photos and some photos of other trees that had inspired some thoughts. Thanks in advance for weighing in!!

**The tree as it stands now. I opted to try an off-center placement int he pot, but I think when it's re-potted next year I'll place it dead center instead. Not sure I love the offset placement.


**The tree from the side (yes it has a slant to it, the roots were funky and wasn't the easiest thing to wire down into the pot.) I'll be straightening it out when its re-potted next year.


**A closer look from the side.


**This is what I had in mind so far. Trimming it back to this, then wiring up the small branches and see what kind of flow and movement I can put into those branches. Let the lower shoot/branch grow but keep it a little shorter than the other, larger main part of the tree I'd be cutting that approx. 2' foot off of.


**Second idea, which I'm really not sure about, I'd really have to look and look at the tree and see if its appropriate, would be to cut a wedge in the tree then wire or tie it down to have it heal up and grow out on a slight slant, giving the tree and old wound look as if it had another tree fall on it eons ago.


**The third idea was to keep it at about the hight it is now, just a little shorter and toss around the idea of doing a flat top, splitting it at the top. Not crazy about the idea though.

Well, that's about it thus far. Any and all ideas will be greatly appreciated!

Here is the one from Orlando Bonsai that got me thinking a little....
(Read more at this page)

http://www.orlandobonsai.com/?tag=bald-cypress

 

[JudyB]

Very nice fluted base on that guy. I hope that Don B. sees this and comments, his BC's are works of art. You can see what he's done with his on his website Gregory Beach Bonsai. Some ideas maybe for you there.

 

[SMJ76]

Very nice fluted base on that guy. I hope that Don B. sees this and comments, his BC's are works of art. You can see what he's done with his on his website Gregory Beach Bonsai. Some ideas maybe for you there.

Oh, Gregory Beach Bonsai?...very familiar with that site,.. amazing work!!! I love them!!!!!

 

[jkd2572]

How long have you had this? The reason I ask is because I have two that back bud like crazy all over the trunk all through the season. If your does too I would cut off those straight limbs and start over.

 

[SMJ76]

---

How long have you had this? The reason I ask is because I have two that back bud like crazy all over the trunk all through the season. If your does too I would cut off those straight limbs and start over.

Actually I just got it last week. You can see where it had done just that, back budded all over. The reason I would like to keep the one lower shoot that goes up straight was that I was curious as to if I could make a twin tree. I figured that it had a good start and is just under 3/4" wide now?

 

[jkd2572]

If you want that it will thicken pretty quick by letting the leader run. The growth on BC's is amazing fast.

 

[SMJ76]

If you want that it will thicken pretty quick by letting the leader run. The growth on BC's is amazing fast.

Yes, I may go that route, then, if it doesn't progress to my liking, and the overall form does not appear as it thickens up, I look at is as then I can cut it back, and then consider hollowing out that area, or, perhaps yet another idea with develop and come into fruition?

I've heard that when these little fellows start growing in the spring and summer months (of course two of my three are pretty much just getting over being shocked by being pulled, shipped and potted during the summer), they grow just as you say, pretty much like mad.

I've read everywhere not to wire them up to tightly, however, I just watched a nice video of a fellow wrapping a few limbs on his BC and they looked nice and snug against the limbs,...
my point being, "How tight or snug is to much?" I'm guessing that question will be met often with something to the effect of, it's something you get a feel for as you do it and see it done with a BC? Of course PA isn't exactly bald cypress country, sooooooo,.... it's not easy to see anyone work on one in my neck of the woods.

 

[SMJ76]

A side Note, playing with a gift/freebie Bald Cypress

Figured I'd share a little something...

I got this one as a sort of freebie from the fellow I bought my other two BC's from. I had told him to keep his eye out for something specific that could be made into a wonderful tree in a literati style,...and he found this little guy with wonderful taper, etc. Had a 1" trunk with good taper and nice roots. I looked and looked at it, and took an old plastic pot, cut it down, (found out it was way to flexible afterward!! ) then wired it in, placed the entire thing in an old aluminum tray filled halfway with water.
Something told me to take a chance and play with it,...so, after some wiring, I gingerly bent up the body to bow it. I had no raffia at the time to do a nice long, gentle curve, so I contrived my wiring scheme as I used a light but strong gauge copper wire with two scraps of 1/8" thick leather for the wire to wrap around at the two points you see.
I then cut a small notch in the main part of the tree, gave it hard bend to the side, wired that together and, after having pulled together the notch area, I covered the wound thoroughly with cut paste. The rest as you can see was wired except for two small shoots, one I later removed, the other got wired.
Yes, indeed I rushed it, but to me, for now with this particular tree, it's become my "let's see what happens" tree.... So, if it does well, it will only get better. ...and, if not,...well, hopefully I won't see that happen,...hahaha

Front view (at least its the "front" for now...)


Looking down the tree (I like the way I ended up making a sort of spiral pattern of the twop branches when you look at it from this vantage point. I had seen it started going in that direction and went with it.)


Backside, and it leaning to the left now.


A little shot of the wire-on-leather idea, wired to one of the large roots...so far so good!

 

[johng]

Y

I've read everywhere not to wire them up to tightly, however, I just watched a nice video of a fellow wrapping a few limbs on his BC and they looked nice and snug against the limbs,...
my point being, "How tight or snug is to much?" I'm guessing that question will be met often with something to the effect of, it's something you get a feel for as you do it and see it done with a BC? Of course PA isn't exactly bald cypress country, sooooooo,.... it's not easy to see anyone work on one in my neck of the woods.

Wiring techniques is something that is a learned with experience....what you want to avoid is wire scars. If the wire is too tight as soon as the branch/trunk begins to grow the wire begins to cut in. If you leave wire that is cutting in too long it will permanently scar the branch...obviously no one wants to do this. If wire is too loose when applied it is more difficult to get the bends and shape that you desire....and it is much easier to snap a branch while bending...not a huge deal with BC as they heal fast but it can lead to a persistent weak spot in the branch.

For me the secret to getting a branch to hold its shape after wiring is that it needs to put on some wood...or grow a little while wired. Herein lies the rub...wiring too tight will scar the branch as its tissue repairs itself and gets bigger with new growth. For me, I wire pretty snug but monitor the wire carefully afterwards and take it off before it does significant damage...usually anywhere from 6 weeks to 3-4 months. I also do not let wired branches grow freely. I will let the new shoots extend maybe 6" and then I pinch the tip. This forces the tree to back bud on the branch and a second set of buds extend. Once again keep an eye on them and don't let them get very long...at this point it is typically time to take the wire off.

You may have watched one of my videos...I have several out there on Youtube...with one series that has chronicled the development of one on my BC trees over the last 5 or 6 years. If you watch the whole series you will see that this tree has been wired probably 8 or 9 times over the course of its development....so wiring is an incremental process on developing trees...not just a once and done process.

I personally believe that good wiring is essential to the development of great bonsai...particularly with respect to conifers. Wiring technique is something that requires lots of hands on practice to do effectively and is extremely difficult to learn from watching videos or reading about it! I highly recommend that you find the time to take a class or meet with an individual locally that can walk you through the basics of wiring and be the guide on the side while you learn to wire and practice your technique.

Hope that is helpful.
John

 

[SMJ76]

John,
I've seen some of your youtube vids, wonderful work! Now if I could just get a few large collected pieces like you've found!!!

Yes, I think the key is to be watchful of the branches on a bald cypress after they're wired up. I've watched a fellow wiring up a juniper a few weeks ago, in person, and it seems I've been using the same care myself, thankfully. But all trees are different of course, so things change, technique etc I'm sure.

I used to be an artist years ago, and changed over to graphic design to make ends meet, when things got tougher I re-learned a lot of welding techniques I had forgotten, (father's been a welder and was a tinsmith before that) so I ended up paying the bills that way. Things are beginning to come full circle and I'm finding my hand on the paintbrush yet again, talking to galleries, etc. The only reason I mention this is that I've been able to use my eye as I had been trained years ago in classical realism and apply it to bonsai thus far. Now, It's simply all about the details of timing to cut things, pruning, planting, potting and how to work with such things as wire depending on what tree, etc. I'm finding a much needed peace when I study bonsai, work with them and so forth.... something the good Lord always intended for me I suppose. Life is interesting,..

 

[SMJ76]

Well, as I kept looking at the tree this early evening while it was still light out, I saw a shape hiding in it that I think I'll want to bring out when I cut this tree. A candle flame appearance. I'd like to see if I can bring the form out in the tree.

 

[JudyB]

Yes that does seem to be the defining part of the charm of your tree. I would aim there. But I also like the idea of hollowing out the branch area as well. BC's with hollows seem pretty natural.

 

[SMJ76]

Yes that does seem to be the defining part of the charm of your tree. I would aim there. But I also like the idea of hollowing out the branch area as well. BC's with hollows seem pretty natural.

Yes, I'm teetering back and forth on hollowing it out,... I think it will happen in time.