This is a nice maple, I don't see a graft scar, which is excellent, it is either cutting grown or was a very skilled graft. Nice. Seed grown and cutting grown are usually considered superior for bonsai. Grafted trees are excellent if the grafting scar is nearly invisible. Mismatched grafting scars make majority of grafted trees useless for bonsai. That is the reason there's always a discussion of layering a grafted tree, that is the normal method to eliminate poorly done grafting scars. For bonsai purposes it is usually worth the effort to seek out cutting grown material, or seed grown material, just to avoid issues with graft scars. Of course seed grown maples will not be genetically identical clones of named maples.
Your maple is in a pot that is large enough to allow fairly vigorous growth for several years. This is good for early phases of development.
In a generalized way bonsai usually follow the 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 pattern. The first third is the main trunk, second third is primary and secondary branching, the last is the fine twigging and leafs. The pattern is not rigid or absolute, but if you are uncertain about what to do, it usually is a viable plan. First, one focus is on developing the trunk, secondary branching can be allowed to grow overly long in the service of developing the trunk. When the trunk is at least 75% of the desired final diameter, it is time to focus on the next segment. Second phase is developing secondary branching, during which the tertiary branching is often allowed to run wild. Only in the final phase of development are all segments of the tree kept in proportion. Usually this process takes at least 5 years, it can take much longer with slower growing species of trees. Sometimes one cycles back through these steps if needed. Prune, wire, grow out, remove wire, allow more growth, then prune, wire, grow out, remove wire, grow out some more. Repeat. There should be dramatic improvement in 5 to 10 years. Try to think in terms of a 5 year plan.
Your wiring has helped the overall profile of your tree, well done. Remove the wire sometime within the next 6 months.
I found it useful to think of profiles of deciduous trees like maples and elms as being similar to wine glasses. Some wine glasses are narrow flutes, some are more open as for red wine, some are wide balloons as for brandy. Pick a line, like the curve of the outside of the wine glass, that line should be repeated in every branch of your tree, or at least the structural uprights. Each branch should repeat a similar or related arc or curve. No piccolos in with the flutes. Each tree has a common theme or pattern, the branches repeat the main elements of the pattern, each interation is scaled smaller as you move up the tree.
So I have not told you what to cut, I have told you how to figure out what cut. Make pencil drawings, take time to plan, in time it will come.
, clip and grow is for gangsters!
