I have several, flat rock slabs that I have found while out and around and want to try and use them for bonsai tree slabs. They are not very big with the biggest one being 14" X 10". How does one keep bonsai soil stabilized around the outer edges? I picture it washing away with each watering. I remember reading about how people do this, but can't remember what it was. Help appreciated!
NATURAL ROCK SLAB HELP PLEASE
- Thread starter August44
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BrianBay9
Masterpiece
Usually people make a barrier around the planting with muck (clay, water, moss mixture) Once dry it holds soil in well enough to get the tree established. If you need a more substantial barrier you can epoxy small stones or chips of the slab to create a small wall. You'll also need some tie-down spots. These can be made by using epoxy and a loop or wire. It helps to drill a depression to epoxy the wire into - more secure than on the flat of the rock.
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
One word for ya--MUCK.
It's a mix of mud and soil you can roll up into barriers for soil on rock slabs. You basically build a container on top of the slab to hold trees and soil.
www.superflybonsai.com
Here's a decent video and discussion of the process
BTW, as a rule of thumb, you use only a third or up to half, of the slab's surface for actual planting. It always winds up being more, but the more negative space you use, the more impactful the use of a rock can be. The point of a slab is the edges and open space to convey scale and nature. I always see slabs planted all the way up to their edges, which looks cramped and overplanted...14x10 is a very small space to work with...
this is the best forest/slab planting reference I've seen bar none. Worth having in your collection:
stonelantern.com
It's a mix of mud and soil you can roll up into barriers for soil on rock slabs. You basically build a container on top of the slab to hold trees and soil.
Muck-O Bonsai Muck Keto Soil For Making Kokedama, Kusamono and Seki-Joju (accent plants, rock plantings and moss balls)
When you really need to muck things up, use Muck-O! Muck-O is ideal for all your Kokedama (moss balls), Kusamono (accent plants) and Seki-Joju (rock plantings). The purpose of Muck-O is to hold it's shape while providing soil for the plant you are working with. Muck-O retains a lot of water and...
www.superflybonsai.com
Here's a decent video and discussion of the process
BTW, as a rule of thumb, you use only a third or up to half, of the slab's surface for actual planting. It always winds up being more, but the more negative space you use, the more impactful the use of a rock can be. The point of a slab is the edges and open space to convey scale and nature. I always see slabs planted all the way up to their edges, which looks cramped and overplanted...14x10 is a very small space to work with...
this is the best forest/slab planting reference I've seen bar none. Worth having in your collection:
Forest, Rock Planting & Ezo Spruce Bonsai by Saburo Kato
RARE OUT OF PRINT This exceptional classic is a wonderful museum quality bonsai treasure by the true master of forest rock plantings. Previously available only in Japanese, it stands as the definitive bonsai book on the subject and is a noble addition to the collection of top quality bonsai...
stonelantern.com
Last edited:
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Agree that 14"x10" is pretty small for a slab but depends on the size of the tree going on it.
The others have already mentioned the 2 methods of retaining soil on slabs. Use moss on the muck walls to protect them from erosion and improve the look.
Something that most beginners do not understand about plantings with or on rock is the additional water requirements. Rock is usually somewhat porous and absorbs water which is then evaporated from exposed surfaces, including underneath. Factor in the usually very shallow soil an you may begin to understand that trees on slabs are not so easy.
Plantings with rock will need extra watering just to keep the trees alive. I gave up on rock slabs years ago because the trees just did not do well in our hot, dry summers.
The others have already mentioned the 2 methods of retaining soil on slabs. Use moss on the muck walls to protect them from erosion and improve the look.
Something that most beginners do not understand about plantings with or on rock is the additional water requirements. Rock is usually somewhat porous and absorbs water which is then evaporated from exposed surfaces, including underneath. Factor in the usually very shallow soil an you may begin to understand that trees on slabs are not so easy.
Plantings with rock will need extra watering just to keep the trees alive. I gave up on rock slabs years ago because the trees just did not do well in our hot, dry summers.
Mike Westervelt
Chumono
The muck recipe I was taught is:
Cornstarch and water, heated or microwaved, stirring occasionally until it thick like peanut butter, or vaseline.
Next add equal parts shredded spahgnum and akadama fines(the stuff you would throw out after sifting) and mix well.
We also innocculate with a little shredded fresh moss and lichens if available.
The finished product is similar to mortar and can be formed into thin walls which in turn contain your soil.
As mentioned previously, wire loops can be epoxied in or you can drill the slab to secure your tree/trees.
Cornstarch and water, heated or microwaved, stirring occasionally until it thick like peanut butter, or vaseline.
Next add equal parts shredded spahgnum and akadama fines(the stuff you would throw out after sifting) and mix well.
We also innocculate with a little shredded fresh moss and lichens if available.
The finished product is similar to mortar and can be formed into thin walls which in turn contain your soil.
As mentioned previously, wire loops can be epoxied in or you can drill the slab to secure your tree/trees.
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
Potter's clay from the hobby shop worked into damp sphagnum = EZPZ and does the job. Moss will grow on it.
Here's a pic of a planting on a porcelain floor tile (sharp edge along near the bottom is the edge of the tile) that uses this clay-in-sphagnum perimeter dam. There are several white dots in the pic that are mushroom caps. These happen to be in moss outside the dam, on the dam, and inside the muck dam. --> in case you think such simple stuff must be bad, horticulturally, or aesthetically.
Also, along the lines previously stated
my planting is held in place with some wire loops that I super-glued (as opposed to epoxied) to the floor tile. I also drilled a hole through the tile under the planting that is covered with mesh for drainage. Alternatively to drilling with a diamond hole saw ($15) one might have adequate drainage by placing a few plastic soda straws under the muck.
Here's a pic of a planting on a porcelain floor tile (sharp edge along near the bottom is the edge of the tile) that uses this clay-in-sphagnum perimeter dam. There are several white dots in the pic that are mushroom caps. These happen to be in moss outside the dam, on the dam, and inside the muck dam. --> in case you think such simple stuff must be bad, horticulturally, or aesthetically.
Also, along the lines previously stated
my planting is held in place with some wire loops that I super-glued (as opposed to epoxied) to the floor tile. I also drilled a hole through the tile under the planting that is covered with mesh for drainage. Alternatively to drilling with a diamond hole saw ($15) one might have adequate drainage by placing a few plastic soda straws under the muck.
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
I forgot to mention, I used a thick/gel superglue. A dab on each side of the loop (omega, to be more precise), put in position, hold steady, dust the glue with a bit of baking soda and it sets immediately, 'hard as a rock'.
mattspinniken
Omono
Ive done quite a few rock plantings and I use no muck. Roots don't grow well in muck. Make sure you have good anchors for the tree, place it on top of soil, thread the sides with soil and especially long fiber spagnum moss.
Shogun610
Masterpiece
This ^, basically using that method for a combination planting. W half of it on rock. Drilling holes through lace rock, and putting the trees on top of akadam and encircling w sphagnum. Only using muck if a tree goes over a “cliff” area to hold the roots up and as a future path for the roots to follow to get to container eventually.
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