Maple not budding out

[j evans]

I collected this maple last year and potted it in a tub. Everything seemed fine as you can see the photo from when I collected it and then about August 1st. It lost its leaves etc, I built a box around it and mulched it in for the winter. So far this spring no buds, no leaves and I notice it appears that several of the branches have died off. There are still green branches but no sign of any buds etc. Is this another goner or is it just a bit slow and trying to adjust? Thanks

Jamie

Is there anything that I can do to help it?

 

[0soyoung]

No buds is not good. I think it is most likely dead, given the August 'flame out'.

 

[GrimLore]

Do you have a picture of it now? Reason I ask is I have and have seen others leave maples and elms in way to much sun. That resulted in boiled roots and they all dropped foliage mid season and remained that way though out Winter. Mine all came back except one Plum in late Spring and were not vigorous but alive. The following year they returned to normal cycle and growth. Leave it in filtered sun or under shade cloth and just water as you normally had in the past. I did not fertilize during that time. If all goes well you will have minimal branch loss.

Grimmy

 

[j evans]

I don't have a photo right now. Several branches you can tell have suffered die back, other are green and show green under the bark. It is still in the shaded, protected area, corner of the yard in its winter box. Just disappointed not to see any buds yet. Everything else in the yard has some kind of new growth. I really didn't notice the amount of color change on the leaves from the collection time to the first of August. The color change the I noticed I assigned to the fact that I collected it from a full sun area and then to try to lessen the impact of root loss I put it in a shaded area. Leave loss through the fall seemed pretty much normal.

Jamie

 

[eugen_onegin]

Judging by the amount of soil/bucket size in relation to the overall tree, there may not be enough existing roots removed with the tree. A popular method that yields success is to drive a shovel into the ground on only 1/2 off the root area one year, then the other 1/2 the next year, and then remove the whole plant.

Love the potential of the tree though. The trunk looks so powerful. Hope it pull through.

 

[j evans]

The problem with this tree is that it was growing right adjacent to an asphalt parking lot. For some reason, probably the water table, the main root went under the asphalt so recovery of that was limited. I have watered it once this spring with Miracle Grow Quickstart but hesitate to water much more as it seems plenty damp on the top and a moisture meter reads damp about 4 - 5" down. Just wondering if it would hurt or help to give another shot of the Quickstart.

 

[Don Blackmond]

What kind of soil is that? Straight mulch?

 

[j evans]

It is potting soil, mulch and some sand.

Jamie

 

[Don Blackmond]

It is potting soil, mulch and some sand.

Jamie

That's probably a significant factor, coupled with taking off too many roots and leaving too much canopy.

 

[JoeR]

That's probably a significant factor, coupled with taking off too many roots and leaving too much canopy.

I never understood this. '?

How are you supposed to know how much to reduce in the canopy?
I see the logic behind it but do you have to 'guesstimate

Doesnt it make more sense to leave the top alone and let the tree dieback by itself and tell you how much to take off?

 

[j evans]

Is there anything that I should try while I seem to have some life left in it. I reduced the canopy quite a bit more than you realize. I still have probably about 1/3 of the branches are still green. I assume this means that there is still life.

 

[0soyoung]

Doesnt it make more sense to leave the top alone and let the tree dieback by itself and tell you how much to take off?

I think it does, generally speaking.

The problem is that if you have radically more foliage than the roots can support, the tree just suddenly collapses in much this fashion (dessication by transpiration). I've done it by removing a big air layer before it had developed enough roots. I expected trouble when I did it and for a while I thought I was just being melodramatic - then it just collapsed. You had the hint of a change in the foliage color - now you know what that means (too much root damage) and just what to do about it next time.

Live and LEARN .

 

[0soyoung]

Is there anything that I should try while I seem to have some life left in it. I reduced the canopy quite a bit more than you realize. I still have probably about 1/3 of the branches are still green. I assume this means that there is still life.

I suggest that you leave it be; just be sure you are not overwatering. Garden soil should feel 'dry' on top (doesn't muddy you finger; little bits that stick dust right off) before you water - then water until it starts running out the bottom of the pot.

If there is any life left in it, buds will show up low on the tree that will become new shoots. Don't prune anything until it is again healthy - the tree seals itself when it dies back. Pruning will just lets vital water evaporate and hasten its demise, should there be any hope (note that we prune when disease is suspected so as to excise the pathogen and protect the uninfected parts).

 

[edprocoat]

Jamie, did you drill holes in the bottom of your pot so the water could drain?

ed

 

[j evans]

Yep, got four about 3/8" holes around the bottom of the pot. Seemed to be draining pretty well last summer. Checked around the base of the trunk and trunk and did not see any growth/buds there either. Although it looks bad I don't think that the amount of "green" branches has diminished in the last month or so. Don't know if this is good sign or if they just haven't lost their color yet.

 

[GrimLore]

I never understood this. '?

How are you supposed to know how much to reduce in the canopy?
I see the logic behind it but do you have to 'guesstimate

Doesnt it make more sense to leave the top alone and let the tree dieback by itself and tell you how much to take off?

If you take off 10 percent of the foliage take off 10 percent of the fine root creating a good balance of feeder to foliage. If you take of 30 top take off 30 bottom, just keep it equal. There are more detailed reasons as well but knowing the basics is practical and works...

Grimmy

 

[iant]

I'm having trouble seeing what the maple looks like currently. The photo of the close up of the branches that aren't budding out isn't coming through very clearly.
Ian

 

[j evans]

The tree is currently completely bare. First photo is in May 2014 and the second is in August 2014. I do not have a current photo but all there are is branches. No buds, no leaves just sticks, winter mulch, some soil and a pot

 

[j evans]

Here are some current photos

As you can see some branches are quite dead and others are still green both inside & out

Soil is still mulched over as our weather is still cold, down into the low 30's at night, but is quite damp from rain in the last few days

No buds or other sign of growth

 

[GrimLore]

30s? Honest? Let it be! I would not expect anything for 4 more weeks

Grimmy